5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Oh snap! (I broke a bolt)

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Old 01-10-2009, 03:27 PM
  #21  
Modular_Madness96
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Im building up a 340 (302+331 kit+0.060 over bore) and had a bolt snap off in the head when taking the valve covers off.

Must be contagious lol

I was lucky enough to just drill it out and use my extractor set.Which is what you will end up doing just dont let the bit walk to either side or you will be redrilling and tapping new threads.I suggest you get a standard extractor kit from a quality tool vendor a good sharp set of drill bits.Took about 15 minutes.

Start with a small bit to start your area to be drilled and step up to a bigger bit so it doesnt walk around.
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Old 01-10-2009, 03:41 PM
  #22  
projectresto83
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Its a 15/16 and its lefty loosey like everything else. You may need someone to hold the flywheel or if you have access to air use it.
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Old 01-11-2009, 05:33 PM
  #23  
devyl
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Well, good news and bad news. I finally got time to get the timing cover off (excuse the pun), and it came off relatively easy. The bad news is the bolt snapped right off with the timing chain cover. Now it's flush on the block. I tried a tap-out, but it, too, broke off, right inside the bolt. I tried re-drilling through it, but they must be made of some kind of demonic metal straight from hell, as the titanium bits I use aren't even phasing it. Anyhow, here's a pic of where I stand now. The red circle is the bolt that's broken.

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Old 01-11-2009, 06:19 PM
  #24  
Cobra77
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Not really sure if it would work, but could you weld something to the ez out, and spin it back out? I've never had great luck with them either, gotta be dead on center and have luck on your side, once they start flexing I usually opt for another route.
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:34 PM
  #25  
projectresto83
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Screw it, time to get a new block and stroke it
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