Rebuilding a T5
01-16-2009, 01:47 PM
#2
in limbo
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Iowa
Posts: 7,300
there isnt really "torque" specs since there really isnt any nuts and bolts except for when you seal up the case. are you just looking for a step by step breakdown of how to rebuild one? i can walk you through it if you have questions but its really self explanitory once you get into it. the key is to stay organized.
how damaged is the T5? do you need to replace any gears or just a simple blocker ring, bearings/race replacement rebuid?
how damaged is the T5? do you need to replace any gears or just a simple blocker ring, bearings/race replacement rebuid?
01-16-2009, 02:19 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: MO
Posts: 7
I was reffering to the case bolts and what not. Just a breakdown. Not a walkthrough just a schematic incase I run into somthing and have a question on "which direction or which way" somthing goes. It needs gears, just havnt got it pulled yet
01-16-2009, 03:53 PM
#4
in limbo
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Iowa
Posts: 7,300
case bolts just need to be snug. all the tailshaft bolts should have lockwashers on them so they wont back out. dont torque them, the rtv will do its job.
as far as making sure everything is put back together correctly. when you take it apart just take apart in order and lay it out in an exploded fasion so you dont forget. you can also take digi pictures.
as far as making sure everything is put back together correctly. when you take it apart just take apart in order and lay it out in an exploded fasion so you dont forget. you can also take digi pictures.
01-16-2009, 04:58 PM
#6
in limbo
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Iowa
Posts: 7,300
if you know how to rebuild a tranny this should be a cake walk. i did an old 60's 3 speed with external linkage. personally i felt this rebuild was no challange. again if you have a question let me know.
only thing you wanna check is the countershaft spacing wise with the shim. i actually had to sand my shim down just a bit to get it to read correctly.
make sure the main shaft end play is less the .003 travel. other than that my only issue was i didnt understand(at the time) of internal stops. so i overshifted 3&4th slider and it locked up. so i had to tear it all apart to get the slider back onto the hub.
the only difference you may encounter is 92& later t5's have a second brass blcoker on 5th to stop reverse from grinding.
umm, everything else should be pretty straight forward
only thing you wanna check is the countershaft spacing wise with the shim. i actually had to sand my shim down just a bit to get it to read correctly.
make sure the main shaft end play is less the .003 travel. other than that my only issue was i didnt understand(at the time) of internal stops. so i overshifted 3&4th slider and it locked up. so i had to tear it all apart to get the slider back onto the hub.
the only difference you may encounter is 92& later t5's have a second brass blcoker on 5th to stop reverse from grinding.
umm, everything else should be pretty straight forward
01-16-2009, 06:09 PM
#8
M.A.D. Motorsports
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 8,014
01-16-2009, 11:41 PM
#9
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
NOT TOTALLY true....the cluster retainer has atorque spec as well as a min/max end play that is shimmed and checked with a dial indicator and the out put shaft has end play to check for also.
01-17-2009, 09:58 AM
#10
in limbo
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Iowa
Posts: 7,300
make sure the main shaft end play is less the .003 travel.
you wanna check is the countershaft spacing wise with the shim. i actually had to sand my shim down just a bit to get it to read correctly.
and i forgots about the cluster retainer so....+1 to that!! lol. (i didnt forget to do that on mine)