NoGo95GT

Covinant, I am just throwing this out there. But for the price of a H/C/I and the supporting bolt ons you could by a used Vortech or almost a new one. Plus, you'd be making slightly more horsepower then a well thought out H/C/I. The installation is much easier. And if you want more power down the road, you could eventually add an H/C/I. A Vortech SC + a 3:11 pulley+ powerpipe+ exhaust and intake manifold and tune will normally put down 340-360rwhp. Add Heads and Cam and 430rwhp is pretty usual. In my honest opinion I wish I did the supercharger first(I did H/C/I then Vortech). Again, I am just giving you another option.

Covinant

NoGo95GT

So I can just bolt this in with not other mods and call it a day?

FivePointOhh

you should upgrade your fuel system with a supercharger. bigger MAF that matches injectors, 42# injectors and 255lph fuel pump.

or you can run low boost on a FMU on stock fuel system and it will still work if funds are low. but ^^^ would be the ideal route.

NoGo95GT

Like fivepointohh said, it would be ideal to upgrade your fuel system. However, Vortech kits are meant to be a direct bolton on stock or basically stock mustangs. The FMU the kits come with are meant to compensate for the lack of the fuel reqirements by the stock 19lb injectors. A 255lph fuel pump would be mandatory however. The install can be done in about 7 hours with easy wrenching. Even a non-experienced person should be able to do it relatively quick. Still, a 94-95 Vortech kit can be had for NEW for around $2700 while used kits can be had for easily under $2000. I bought mine used for $1850. I say bolton the Vortech and be doen with it. If you get bored, get a smaller SC pulley and powerpipe. Anyway, once you get hooked on boost, there's no going back.

jthorn9

Stage One
3.73 Gears
Full S/P Loudmouth II catback exhaust
BBK Ceramic Coated Headers
JLT or BBK Cold Air Intake
H&R Springs
Adjustable Caster Cambers
Lower Control Arms
Spec Aluminum Flywheel
Spec Stage 2 Clutch (get the lightweight option)
Ford Racing Aluminum Driveshaft
(check your stock front sway bar, if it's rusted beyond repair, get a new Steeda model)
(your car should of come stock with a strut tower bar, if it didn't get another one)
Steeda 8mm Spark Plug Wires 94/95
(check the tips on the distributer cap, if they're corroded it's time to get a new one, MSD or stock is fine)
(check your ignition coil tip, if it's corroded then it's time to get a new one, Ford OEM is more than enough)

Stage Two
306 Stroker Block (economy)
331 Stroker Block (performance)
Trick Flow Track Heat Upper/Lower Intake
94/95 Intake Adaptor
Performance Products 70mm TB
Trick Flow Twist Wedge Heads
Intake Bolts for Intakes
New Head Bolts
Steeda #19 Camshaft
Ford OEM Hydrollic Roller Lifters
Appropriate Sized Hardened Pushrods
190lb hr Ford Racing Fuel Pump
30lb fuel injectors
New Valve Covers
New Valve Cover Bolts
MAF (your choice) Programed to the Fuel Injector Size (remember you need one that looks like your stock MAF, the 87-93 models will not work unless you change your air intake).


OK I modified your post, there's several things I took out as you simply won't need them, stock will still be more than fine for your applications, such as the ignition, water pump (although it doesn't hurt to change, but if it's not bad then why), radiator, etc. I added more specifics and changed the cam up. It's a little more milder than the Trickflow cam, however, it works better with a 94/95 ECU than other cams. I also upgraded your drivetrain selection and moved it to stage one. Upping the engine displacement and internals is also your choice, a stock 5.0 can more than handle the power that will be made with the above setup, but it is nice to have a forged stroker. Also, just get the block, it's generally cheaper and easier than getting a kit then trying to find a shop to do the work. I'd say the heads, intake, and maybe cams you can do yourself as all you need is a couple of days that the car can be down, and a good tool set, we can tell you how to do the rest. If you can undo a bolt and follow instructions, you can do a h/i swap, cams are a little more tricky, but not much more so.

Covinant

I really appreciate all the info guys. I still dont have a clue on what I want to do. I'm thinking about going with NoGo95GT's suggestion. With that said I'm now looking into a cheap block and going with jthorn9's build up. All an all I think I have some what of a plan.

Once I get the engine built I can just bolt the Vortech kits on right?

Sippix

Covinant:

I saw somewhere that you stated that you were possibly thinking of purchasing a block? Here's a route for your engine building:

Find a decent low mileage used or reconditioned engine without the accessories. Soemone correct me if I'm wrong, but pre '90 Fox 5.0's came with forged internals from the factory (just an idea). Then you could use it to do your build while still running your car as it is currently. Then just swap the engines and accessories and sell off the pulled engine or keep it as a donor. This would allow you to take your time with the build and not have many periods of down time, but only one "weekend job" to do your swap.

I'm not an expert, and this is just my opinion and an added option.

NoGo95GT

Yep, the Vortech will bolt right up!

saleenpride1986

Why are Keith Black pistons bad? Or is it just the hypereutectic pistons?