proper way to break in engine/cam (roller cam)(new engine)
#12
#13
waw! really interesting.. thank you !
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!
The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !
Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!
Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.
Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!
The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !
Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!
Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
Last edited by F150 StrokerCobra; 02-05-2009 at 10:46 PM.
#15
#16
im taking that link as you get in and drive it like you would any other time so bassicly you take it out run through the gears hard (3/4 to full throttle) for 20 min and your done?please correct me if im wrong because i will be doing my break in in about a month if some one could please give me a step by step process that would be geat
#18
with the way rings are today in less than 20-30 min rings are seated or well on their way to being such, look for leaks and unsual sounds then give it a drive around the block and then your ready to stand on it. ....drive it 75-100 miles and if so desired if machine work was done then cut the filter open and and look for any steel shot if that was what was used to clean the block up, if all looks good then put a new filter on and new oil and let it rip!!, This is exactly what Woody told me to do with my motor AND the only reason not to run a synthetic on initial fire up IS BECAUSE when you change it out in 75 miles it's a heck of alot cheaper to use a conventional oil...the rest is just myth after 75 miles mine hit the 1320!! flat tappet motors require a cam break in, roller cam needs no break in
Last edited by mjr46; 02-18-2009 at 08:25 PM.
#19
Thats only on flat tappet cams where it has to establish a wear pattern on the cam. Flat tappet are not really 100% flat and as they ride the cam they spin in the bores. If the lifters don't establish a wear pattern they don't rotate and chew up the cam. On roller cam motors you can skip that step but when an engine block has been machined, heads have been machine and even new valve springs are breaking in a little metal gets in the oil. The first break in oil "washes" the engine out. You cut the oil filter open to make sure you don't find any bearing material or any other big particals in the oil.
#20
i was just gunna say set the timing and then drive it like you stole it. the only way for the rings to seat. if you drive like a sissy the rings wont break in with the bevel in it. they will be a perfect flat face which is not what you want from your rings. so go out there and beat on it. oh and you dont have to break in a roller cam you only need to break in flat tappet cams