removing air from cooling system
03-01-2009, 09:00 PM
#11
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: nc
Posts: 63
ur engine is probly air locked id do that first since its a simple fix mite take u awhile to get all the air out but ive fixed bought 3 cars that did the same thing by taken the time and geting the air out of the system plus u can do it urself and it Free.
03-01-2009, 10:26 PM
#12
in limbo
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Iowa
Posts: 7,300
just run the engine with the cap off the rad until the T stat opens and you can watch the coolant rushing in the rad if you look inside(as stated earlier). once that happens close it back up and check your temp. if its still shooting higher than normal. more than likely your fan clutch isnt working properly. you should also take it for a drive after it cools down, if it overheats while driving too you have a rad issue/rad cap issue. this should help narrow down your hunt 
03-01-2009, 11:15 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 371
What my buddy did to his stang having the same problem was jack up the front end a lil bit, opened the rad cap and started the car til the t-stat opened. You can see and hear the coolant gurgling, start pouring some coolant into it until it stays level in the rad. Apparently air gets trapped in the heater core and wont come out til you jack it up so the rad cap is above the heater core. Good luck, hope you get that fixed, overheating = BAD!!
03-02-2009, 10:52 AM
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location:
Posts: 24
I tried squeezing the air out of the system but it still ran hot. I took the thermostat out and ran it without it, and car runs really cool, and builds up pressure now. This guy at work says my thermo was in backwards. I disagree, The spring side of the thermo goes into the engine, or manifold correct? Thats how I had it. The new 180 thermo must be defective or something.
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03-02-2009, 11:37 AM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: WISCO
Posts: 184
a system with air in it would lower the boiling point, making it run hotter, compared to a system that has no air in it. but the top hose should be warmer than the bottom... thats the way a radiator works, unless its a reverse flow system.
im guessing it has the right amount of coolant. check for leaks, and check the weep holes on the water pump... dont just throw parts at it like everyone else said
how long ago did you put that new radiator in? did you flush the system?
how do you know that its not building pressure? did you run a pressure test?
im just trying to get an idea of your car's condition
im guessing it has the right amount of coolant. check for leaks, and check the weep holes on the water pump... dont just throw parts at it like everyone else said
how long ago did you put that new radiator in? did you flush the system?
how do you know that its not building pressure? did you run a pressure test?
im just trying to get an idea of your car's condition
03-02-2009, 12:08 PM
#17
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Georgia
Posts: 2,624
(sorry to jack the thread)I've got one for you I just got my car running again last thurs. and then drove it to school with no probs. but I left early cause I had a doc's. appt. (this was about a 50 mile trip) when I got to the doctor's office I shut the car off and started inside when I looked up under the car and seen water leaking out of the resovoir but the car never showed that it was hot it never went above the a on normal.when I started back home the car done just fine but again when I pulled into the yard and shut the car off there it was leakin again I can leave the car running and it won't leak and keep in mind that I did change the rad cap cause I thought that was the problem
