88mustanglx

it costs to much money to convert to mass air.. I dont see how ford put SD on mustangs if it doesnt work good with mods, when they know mustangs are made to be modded. And they dindt have mass air back then to put on them, so what did the people do who went and bought a cam for their mustang and it didnt run right because it had SD. It doesnt make sense.

Grey Fox

It's the cam that will do you in.

Don't get me wrong, kiddies...my 87 ran OK with the cam in it before the switch. I coulda run all the 12's I wanted to at the strip all I wanted to and plastered timeslips all over MM&FF's cover. Problem is when I would slow down from mid 30 mph to 5 mph / idle (like at an intersection) the car would buck and kick and carry on like nobody's business. Swtiched to mass air = no drivability problems.

The cars will run all day on speed density. The drivability is the real issue.

Quik

damm i hate kids..............now SD can be made to perform very well. modded SD with correct tune VS modded MAF car SD is hands down a better setup. but it takes more knowledge and time to get a SD to run correctly. MAF is just easier way to do things

MAF goes by vaccum and when a cam is in place it has a hard time compensating for the decrease in vaccum

for hte dude that acted like a hard **** about SD vs MAF go do some research before you try to prove a point. cause when you dont have all the facts you look like a tool..


Mustang Mass Air Conversion

In this document, I will outline the steps to convert a speed density mustang to the MAF system. I am generating this because I felt the documentation I had to work with could be improved. This is based on my own personal experience converting my 88LX convertible to MAF and the instructions that came with the kit I bought. The color codes of the wiring are what I saw in my car and may not be the same but probably are. This document is for reference only and I accept no responsibility for what you do to your car.

REQUIRED COMPONENTS: You will need to obtain a Mass Air meter, a MAF computer and the electrical harness for the MAF meter. The meter harness can be purchased from several manufacturers for about 50-60 dollars but you can make your own if you wish. There are a few EEC's that can be used depending on the car. I've heard it doesn't matter manual vs. auto tranny but I don't know for sure so this is just some additional info for you.

For older MAF computers, the numbers are:
Manual transmission hard top:E9ZF 12A650 AA
Manual transmission convertible:E9ZF 12A650 BA
Automatic transimission:E9ZF 12A650 CA

For later (early 90's I think) MAF computers, the numbers are:
Automatic transimission:F3ZF 12A650 BA
Manual transmission:F3ZF 12A650 AA
Universal EEC:F3ZF 12A650 DA

You can also use the 93 cobra computer:F3ZF 12A650 CA but it requires MAF calibrated for 24# injectors.

The MAF mounting bracket and associated plumbing between the throttle body and the air filter box will have to be acquired from a junk yard or you can rig up your own setup. If you intend the to do the "optional" signals mentioned later, you'll also need to obtain 3 EEC connector pins and some wire.

NOTES: Average mechanical skills are about all that is needed. The only special skill I suggest you have to do this conversion is soldering. Crimp connections are unreliable and could lead to future troubleshooting headaches which you should avoid.

1. EEC REMOVAL
Before you begin, disconnect the battery. Remove the passenger side kick panel. There is 1 screw and a push-in fastener that secure it. Remove the screw in the white plastic retainer that holds the EEC in place. There was a ground wire and a relay, each one screw that I had to move out of the way so I could get the old EEC out. You should now be able to pull the EEC down and out. Once the EEC is out, remove the EEC harness connector using a 10mm socket to loosen the bolt in the center of the connector.


2. MAF HARNESS INSTALL
You'll need to run the 4 wire MAF meter harness through the fire wall on the passenger side. I suggest you poke another hole in the large oval grommet the existing EEC harness goes through located in the upper corner on the passenger side of the firewall. I popped the grommet out of the firewall with a screwdriver and used an exacto to poke a hole in the thin section. You don't just want to blindly jam something through there because you may cut the insulation on some of the wires and cause future shorts. I then used a wire coat hanger as a snake, poking it through the grommet and coming out by the EEC inside the car. I taped the MAF meter harness to the snake (protecting the EEC pins) and pulled it through from inside the car. Pop the grommet back into the firewall after the harness has been pulled through. I then used some silicone to seal the area where the new harness goes through the grommet so I didn't get any water leaks. Remove the red "H" shaped plastic pin lock in the EEC connector. Gently pry around the plastic pin lock with a pointed awl or small scewdriver working it up and out of the connector. You can't add or remove EEC pins to the connector without removing this lock. Depending on the MAF meter you have, it may have a 4 or 5 pin connector. Refer below for pin locations.


PIN
5-Pin connector (E4FB 14489 BA)
4-Pin connector (F078 14489 BA,E9DA 14489 BA)

A
Power (+)
Power (+)

B
No connection
Ground (-)

C
Ground (-)
Signal (-)

D
Signal (-)
Signal (+)

E
Signal (+)




a. The Power (+) wire from the MAF meter harness needs to be spliced into the existing red wire in position #37 of the EEC connector.
b. The Ground (-) wire from the MAF meter harness needs to be spliced into the existing black/green wire in position #40 or #60 of the EEC connector.
c. The Signal (-) wire from the MAF meter harness needs an EEC pin which then gets inserted into position #9 of the EEC connector.
d. The Signal (+) wire from the MAF meter harness needs an EEC pin which then gets inserted into position #50 of the EEC connector.

The locations for pin #9 and #50 should be empty. The pin numbers are embossed into the plastic connector on the back of it where the pins insert. It's a little hard to see but they are there if you look closely.



Please note that the notches shown in the diagram are not the ones seen in the picture. The ones in the diagram are actually keys that only permit the connector to be installed into the EEC one way. Pins 20,40, and 60 are closest to you in the picture. It should be obvious because the pin locations for the additional signals must be empty.



3. MAF METER INSTALL
Remove the existing air filter box cover and tube leading to the throttle body. Install the MAF to the passenger side strut tower which should already have the holes for the bracket. Connect the duct work, tighten the clamps and connect the meter to the MAF meter harness.

4. THERMACTOR PUMP PIN MOVES
You will need to move the 2 signals for the thermactor pump to different locations in the EEC connector. The EEC pins are held in place by a hook shaped retainer that snaps into a groove in the EEC pin. To remove you must pry the hook back from the EEC side of the connector and either push on the pin or pull on the wire from the back. I used a paper clip and flattened one end but a small jewelers screwdriver would work also. The wire currently in position 51 tan/red needs to be moved to position 38. The wire currently in position 11 green/black must be moved to position 32. If there is not enough slack for this to reach the new location, you'll have to splice in some extra wire. Mine reached without doing this.

The next 2 steps some consider optional but will generate error codes in the EEC. Others have reported stalling problems without the VSS signals. In my opinion it's worth doing if only for piece of mind and no bogus error codes. In preparation for these signals, remove the driver's seat and the driver's side kick panel. There are 3 wires that will need to be added for these signals with EEC pins on one end. I suggest you tie them all together and route them as one cable over to the EEC on the passenger side. I took this opportunity to change the carpet at the same time so I had most of the interior out which made this fairly simple.



5. FUEL PUMP MONITOR SIGNAL
This signal called FPM2 is used to monitor the voltage going to the fuel pump. It will generate an error code in the EEC if it's not connected but "shouldn't" cause a problem. Splice into one of the 2 pink/black wires going to the relay located under the driver's seat and insert the other end into position 19 of the EEC connector. Refer to figure 1.
Figure 1 (Relay under dri

Black Snake

Ok Then what mods can I make without switching to MAF, Im not planing on going to crazy with it but I do want a new cam, I was thinking about this:
http://secure.50resto.com/product1.c...tegory_ID=1171
How would that work for my set Up?
Im not gonna go to crazy with the mods but I do want to get around 300 horses Super Charger will come later I dont have the money for that just yet.
The mods Im getting is as fallows:
-Edelbrock Intake Manifold
-Power Throttle Body (70mm
-Ford Racing X Hydraulic Roller Cam
-Ford Racing Fuel Injectors (19 lb.)
- Hi-Flow Fuel Pump 190 LPH
-MAC Steel Underdrive Pulley Kit
- Ford Racing Ring & Pinion Gears (4.10)
-Bassani Ceramic-Coated Long Tube Headers (Maybe too freaking expensive)
-New GT-40 heads or just get the stock head bored over.

Im going to start ordering parts in two weeks.
If theres anything I missed that would go nicly or if theres somthing you dont agree on please tell me.

86gt5.0HO

That should be a sticky

Quik

your TB is too large, your injectors to small. wasted money on a 190 pump.........honestly do the conversion so you save yourself headaches

Black Snake

So should I go with the 65mm TB? And why is it wasted money on the fuel pump?
What size injectors should I get?
Is it easy to do the swap?

Crash7772

Quotes below from happy modded SD owners for the non-believers. If your that worried about the "drivability" issues then why the hell even touch the car to begin with? Wouldn't a $200-$300 chip, reprogram, or tweecer be less hassle than converting to mass air? I could pull up atleast 30 MAF conversion threads from different sites that have had nothing but problems since converting.
Even happy modded SD owners that were upset because all they gained by converting was buying more fuel upgrade parts and wished they never swapped.

From other sites....

"Yea Dagger posted solution to my map sensor problem and I nocticed he had Speed Density!!!!!!!yet he has monster upgrades!!!!Still I was wondering if you can program cpu to make fuel air adjustments IE mass air?????The 86 has fast burn heads oops unique to that year only and dont alow 4 over 14 timing adjustment I think????If I upgrade intake will the cpu adjust ratio even though i have no mass air?????"

"You can get away with allot with SD. The big difference is that most of your tuning will have to be done mechanically as opposed to being done through the computer. For heads... I still rcommend the Twisted Wedge. It "should" keep you from having to knotch your pistons provided you're careful with the cam. I've heard of several others who have knotched their pistons while still in the car but I opted to avoid that (probably due only to ignorance). The E-cam cased me some headaches initially because the vac due to the cam was a bit less than stock. You may have to have the fuel tables on the SD computer changed (reprogrammed) to adapt to what the MAP sensor is seeing at different levels of part power. If you want to make all of your power normally aspirated you'll definitely have to get the computer reprogrammed. At that point even I (a die hard SD freak) would have to question if a Mass Air system wouldn't be the best thing to do. For supercharged applications I'd say keep your mass air and watch your cam. If you plan on running a cam with any overlap it will be difficult (if even possible) to retain the SD. And even it is possible I doubt that it would be worth the expense or effort. SD tries to keep the AFR at a constant 14.7. Great for gas mileage and smog; not so great for making power or for power adders. Things like variable FMU's, larger injectors, and electronic fuel pump boosters make it possible to 'trick' the computer into sending a hell of a lot more gas than it thinks it is. If you plan on doing any serious mods with your SD then I can't stress enough how imprtant it is to permanently install a wideband 02 sensor and reader. It makes tuning a hell of allot easier if you know what's going on. I plan on keeping my SD to the bitter end (who knows why? lol). I hope some of this helps. I guess the bottom line is "Yeah" you can do the mods but you have to be more careful what you do than the Mass Air guys do. Unless you've got a completely programmable EMS that deals with SD it can be a trick." (Dagger himslef)

"Iam also trying to stay with SD for as long as i can i did all the mods in the sig along with a crower cam that works awsome with SD, i didnt have the money for heads at the time i did the cam but this winter iam goin to buy AFR 165's with the 58 cc chambers and hopefully make around 300 at the wheels iam curently at 244 horse and 291 torque at the wheels. The guys over at www.50tech.com know a good deal about speed density i would recomend checking that site out.
Adam"

"I recently did a blower on my car.. stock motor, 65 mm TB.. stock fuel system.. vortech A trim at 5 psi (going to be upped to 8 soon).. the only thing i needed was a vortech SD kit (one way check valve) for my map sensor.... It runs strong as hell and tomorrow i should have 24 lb injectors and a TFS track heat installed"

"crower 15511 and 15510
compcams nx264hr
comp cams xe264hr
comp cams xe270hr
the steeda # 19 is right at the max of the sd limits, I havent saw any one run this one in SD yet.
I ran the nx264hr with 24# injs in my sd combo with thumper heads tmoss lower and then a cobra intake later. It ran fine. I eventually swapped to mass air for future mods. It ran pretty much the same either way. I realy liked the nx264hr cam with the 1.7 rockers."

"my sd combo never surged. I have had more trouble with surge on my maf combo but i fixed it."

"In case your interested, you can run a Kenne Bell blower on Speed density up to 8 psi boost without changing anything but putting the blower on.
Makes nice power right off idle that you can't get with the other mods without a lot of changes and work."

"I know quite a few speed density guys running really fast ...
You can indeed change cams and intakes and heads ...and altho sometimes tough to tune ..if you do your homework you'll find some parts are "SPEED DENSITY FRIENDLY"
cams to look into are Crower 15511, Comp XE 270 for starters..

My friend has ported heads ... a mild crower cam (Crower 15511)
65 TB .. 373's ... ported lower intake .. pulleys ...headers-Hpipe-Flows ... K&N Filter and he rips!!!
No tuning issues ..smooth and fast as a Rabbit in heat!!!

Don't get down on SD... there's many articles and even on here about SD.

T-moss who ports intakes and has one on his car if I'm not mistaken runs SD.
Talk to him....
The smaller line of Crower cams are really SD friendly so look into those... so keep your head up ...

Altho easier to tune a mass air car after major changes ... the right speed density performance parts can get you ballin with the big boys ... just gotta watch what you eat"

Quik

well 190 is ok for a mild street motor. now if you want more then that like boosted then 255 is the only way to go. i see it as buy it once and not again.. 65 tb is all you really need for a street motor and especially with stock heads. also read the post above that i did. thats what im in the process of doing for mine. 24s is what you should use for a H/C/I car to be on the safe side. now a aggressive street/strip car would need 30s and then a 70mm would play a better roll

Crash7772

Crower 15511 cam instead of X-cam for SD and add 1.7RR if more lift is desired, 70MM TB/EGR and 190lph is fine. Possibly a Kirban FPR w/gauge and some sub frame connectors to keep in mind. Stock fuel pump is the weakest link and for the money the 190lph or 255lph is fine, the extra fuel will be sent back to the tank and your pump will work easier than a maxed out 88lph or even a 155lph. 19# injectors are good for over 300 NA horse and if you need that little extra the Explorer injectors flow almost as much as a 24# injector. I'm not a big fan of gears so whatever but most run 3.73 (5 speed) 4.10 (auto) unless mostly dragging. If you want 300+ horse just add the Kenne-bell kit and keep your stock parts.