Brake/Master Cylinder ?
#1
Brake/Master Cylinder ?
I remember reading through old threads about 5 lug conversions and it was recommended that for upgraded brakes (like my brembo 4 piston front and 94-98 cobra rear brakes) that a 1" bore master cylinder would be optimal. Would this be sufficient?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
and would that bolt up to the mustang, because it is listed as a bronco/van/pickup master cylinder? or would a 1.125" bore be better?
Also just a side note- i found a brake booster eliminator kit? i was under the impression that you needed a brake booster- what would getting rid of that do?
thanks!
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
and would that bolt up to the mustang, because it is listed as a bronco/van/pickup master cylinder? or would a 1.125" bore be better?
Also just a side note- i found a brake booster eliminator kit? i was under the impression that you needed a brake booster- what would getting rid of that do?
thanks!
#2
IDK about that mc... but I'm using a 93-95 cobra booster and master cylinder on my 91 fox... it has twin piston cobra calipers up front and the same rear calipers as 93-04 cobras/mach 1s. I'm also using a diff prop valve from ford racing, I had to open it up and remove the plunger from the prop valve to disable its proportioning ability, and then install an adjustable prop valve in the front to rear line. The MC im using has 2 ports on it rather than 3 ports like the stock fox one. I used to 2300K kit though, im sure those mods arent necessary for doing a 4wd conversion.
As for eliminating the booster.... The booster uses engine vacuum to make it easier to apply force to the brakes, you can eliminate it but it's harded to apply the same pressure, although not impossible, to the brakes. The only real reason to eliminate it would be if you had a radical cam and can't sacrifice the engine vacuum. The only place I have ever really seen people doing this out of necessity is on very big displacement motors, such as chevy 540s with radical cams. I doubt your ever going to need to eliminate it, unless you just like working your leg muscles more and also want a slightly less cluttered engine bay.
The only bitch about using a larger brake booster like mine from the sn95 cobras is that I had to cut a notch in my fenderwell and fabricate a square piece to go in there so my fenderwell wasnt open to the elements. Otherwise you won't have clearance. I also had to cut my studs on the firewall side of the booster in half to get it close enough to the firewall for fenderwell clearance. It was a pain in the *** but it worked.
As for eliminating the booster.... The booster uses engine vacuum to make it easier to apply force to the brakes, you can eliminate it but it's harded to apply the same pressure, although not impossible, to the brakes. The only real reason to eliminate it would be if you had a radical cam and can't sacrifice the engine vacuum. The only place I have ever really seen people doing this out of necessity is on very big displacement motors, such as chevy 540s with radical cams. I doubt your ever going to need to eliminate it, unless you just like working your leg muscles more and also want a slightly less cluttered engine bay.
The only bitch about using a larger brake booster like mine from the sn95 cobras is that I had to cut a notch in my fenderwell and fabricate a square piece to go in there so my fenderwell wasnt open to the elements. Otherwise you won't have clearance. I also had to cut my studs on the firewall side of the booster in half to get it close enough to the firewall for fenderwell clearance. It was a pain in the *** but it worked.
#3
Yeah my brakes will be bigger than that, which is why i THINK i'll need a bigger MC but i wanted someone who had experience with a setup like mine, because i'm also trying to minimize costs.
okay cool guess i won't waste the money on the delete kit, cause my engine bay looks a mess anyway haha. as long as it goes thats all i really care about.
Thanks for your help.
okay cool guess i won't waste the money on the delete kit, cause my engine bay looks a mess anyway haha. as long as it goes thats all i really care about.
Thanks for your help.
#4
I can't comment on the practical side, but I will comment on the theoretical aspect of it. The bigger the caliper (piston area), the bigger a MC you're gonna want. If not, you may run out of pedal stroke before you've moved the caliper piston enough to do the job. Now, when the pads are new, most of the brake fluid is in the MC, but as the pads wear, the fluid contained in the calipers can be more that the capacity of the MC and you my reach a point where you have to add fluid to the MC between pad changes, only to have to remove some when you put new pads in. The plus side is that if all you do is increase the caliper piston size, you will gain a mechanical advantage and your pedal effort will decrease while your pedal stroke will increase (pedal will feel "softer").
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