luckythirteen13

just got my drag lites in and fitted them to my car before i go and have my hoosier's mounted on them. the stock lug bolts are way to short. i know i need 3" lug bolts for it to work right and i already have open ended lug nuts but my question is, can i knock the stock bolts out without removing the axle shafts and if so, will i be able to get the longer ones in? i have drum brakes in the rear. how long will it take if possible?

thanks

Grandmaster

I always thought the axle was bolted to the brake drum, and that the brake drum has the studs in it? If so, then just take of you're brake drum, pound out the studs with a hammer, then pound new ones in.

bobby

luckythirteen13

no, the axle has the bolts in it. the drum slides over that and then the wheel bolts on next

bobby

take off the drum, pound out studs, put new ones in, put on brake drum, put on wheel

Fishhawk

Don't even think about pounding them out with the axles still in the car. Do it right and pull the axles. Its not hard and will give you a reason to change your gear lube. As a matter of fact, if your going with Hoosiers now would be the right time to get some hardened axles from Mosier, Strange, or Superior. If you don't do it now you will later when those tires hook and you snap one of those stock 28 spline POS. The 3" studs you will get will most likely be Mosier or Moroso, and they are also hardened. They don't pull through quite as easy as stock one's. They will have to be pressed in, which means the axles will have to come out.
Also, with Weld's you have to make sure that the new studs are in straight. If they are off at all, the long shank lug nuts needed for Weld's will cross thread on the stud and you will snap the stud off and then you will be pulling the axles out again and starting all over.
Been there done that....... Just yesterday. Putting my axles back in tonight. This time I stood there and watched the guy press the studs in and made sure they were straight.

cammedlx

You absoulutley have to have the shank lug nuts.if you run a relgular acorn style lug like you have on your ponys then you will lose them welds.................while driving.

JD1969

It sounds to me like you think the studs need to stick out past the rim, with Welds you need a shanked lug nut that inserts into the rim, you should have got them when you bought the rims. Now to be completly NHRA legal then yes you will need the longer studs.

Greybeard

If you can't go with hardened axles, or don't want to go thru the hassle of pulling your existing axles, and are concerned with damaging the diff by pounding the studs out, you can gin up a notched 2x4 to fit between the axle and the backing plate to take the brunt of the hammer shots. And a 4 to 6 pound hammer with a copper cap will drive them out in one or two middling shots without sending a lot of bad vibes... Reinstalling the hardened studs is for sure easier using a press, but can be done almost as fast using a a sealed bearing (like from an electric motor with a 1/2" shaft) to fit over the stud with a greased washer between the bearing and hub so that only the outer race is touching the hub and the inner race is free to rotate under the nut. Just make sure that you get the stud splines lined up and lube the threads before putting a lot of torque to the nut. Don't overdo the installation torque or the studs and/or threads can get weakened.

luckythirteen13

jd, the exactly right, i was expecting the lugs to stick out past the wheel. im not familiar with the shanked lug. do you have a link you can send me to so that i can buy them? the welds were bought used so nothing like that came with them.

is a shanked lug bolt go in into the wheel holes and thread onto the stock length bolts. the axles are 31 spline mosers. had the rear end rebuild but havent been to the track yet


EDIT: http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp which one of these? ......assuming this is what i need