Tony71502

If you don't know how to double flare, which is make a normal line look like the end of brake lines, have a mechanic do it. On mine, I cut the line before the S bend, where it is straight for a decent length. Then I bent the long straght line into a large radius curve. I cut the line with a cut off wheel, a hacksaw would work also... just make sure to clean off the burs and make sure the cut is true.

The two adapters are some of the only parts in the ford cobra r brake kit that you can find replacements for at auto part stores. All the rest are F/L/M dealerships.

You'll have some trouble with getting the parking brake to work, I bet. The rear brakes are pretty easy, the hardest part is putting the flex hose brackets on the housing, which is just drill two holes.

crusin92red5.0

so your saying that i can find the parts at a part store or Lowes, or Homedepot?

or do i need the kit? if so do you have a link? maybe 50resto?

i already thought about the parking brake, i'm hoping there is a fix to whatever problem i run into?

Tony71502

The parking brake is pretty easy with the right parts. The fittings can be found at a place like advance, autozone, or pepboys. What kit are you referring to? A double flare tool kit? Auto parts store, too. Make sure you practice if you are doing the flaring ourself.

crusin92red5.0

thanks again and no i was refering to the cobra r kit you were talking about. but i'll find the fittings.... hopefully

i'll sum this up with one final question

the sn95 prop valve,,,, by pulling out the plunger and spring, i'm basically disassembiling (?) the prop valve completely. right? so its basically just a port station to deliver the fluid to all lines.

and by putting the adj prop valve then allows me to adjust more/less pressure to the backs, right?

thanks again

Tony71502

That is correct, read the note on the page in that one picture.

The cobra kit is like 2400 and includes brand new calipers discs brackets spindles, everything. Thats what those directions are from.

crusin92red5.0

cool man. thanks again, i'm gonna work on finding these adapters and finishing the fronts, and then i might open this post when i start working on the rears in the next week or so, so keep a look out for it

crusin92red5.0

cool man. thanks again, i'm gonna work on finding these adapters and finishing the fronts, and then i might open this post when i start working on the rears in the next week or so, so keep a look out for it.


on a side note, its kinda strange that your sn95 booster fit without drilling a fresh hole, and mine needed a hole that was off by atleast a half inch if not three quarters of an inch, as you can see from my pic

Tony71502

That is a bit strange, the most mods to the firewall hole that I had to do was widened the hole a bit, maybe 1/8 of an inch... on one hole.

As long as the mc is flush on the booster, and the booster pushrod is connected to the pedal properly, there won't be an issue.

crusin92red5.0

Alright,,,, done with the fronts, and the backs are all bolted/brake lined up. the only thing i need to is to do is figure out how the hell these cables hook up.

Any advice would be great.
thanks

Tony71502

The parking brake cables? Hopefully you have the right ones.

They are held to the rear calipers with a small C shaped clip. From there they are held to the body using the stock parking brake cable brackets located right in front of the rear wheel wells. I had to rotate my brackets 180 degrees to pull the cables closer to the centerline of the car because I needed clearance from my wide rear tires. The cables then follow the stock routing, using the same plastic football shaped sheaves.

For connecting to the parking brake, the stock cable that is attached to the equalizer(this cable is about a foot long attached to the parking brake) gets replaced with a cable that has about 8 inches of what looks like threaded steel rod attached to it. The stock equalizer needs to have the center hole enlarged to fit on this threaded rod. It is held in place by two nuts in the side closest to the rear of the car. This threaded rod allows adjustment of the parking brake by a simple turn of the wrench. It also makes installation of the long parking brake cables very easy. You don't have to try and muscle the cable to get into the equalizer because now you attach them when the equalizer is at the end of the threaded rod and they have some slack, then tighten the nuts holding the equalizer on and this tightens up the cables. The spiral spring in the parking brake has a tab that needs cut off to disable its function(I just removed the whole spring, which is a PITA). Then the dog needs welded to the second tooth in the parking brake assembly. Install it all and your good to go.

Hope that's helpful, I can't post pics at the moment because my computer's motherboard died and I'm in the market for a laptop instead. I can only use the forums at work, for now.