LesteR723

Okay i Muffed up- i got a new battery and hooked it up backwards (long story short) and my ignition coil went up in smoke. I tried to crank the car and got nothing, no nights, no noise, nothing. I replaced my ignition coil, my starter selenoid, my battery cables, my starter, and my starter cable and still nothing. Me and my Dad were tinkering with it today and bypassed all 5 fusible links and hooked up a jumper box (just in case the battery had gotten drained), and the dome light turned on, the headlights and tail lights worked, some of the dash lights came on, and when i click the key to "on" or crank it, it makes a grumbly dryer buzzer noise from the starter selenoid.

I have several Questions:

Any reason why it would be making the noise when i turn the key to the "on"?

Why is there no change when the key goes from "on" to the crank position?

Why is the selenoid making that noise?

What else do you think is wrong which i will have to fix in order to get my car running again?

Thank you in advance i appreciate your advice

67mustang302

Wow, I hope you didn't completely fry the computer. Modern automobile electronics are EXTREMELY sensitive to even the slightest voltage irregularity. Are there any codes, or does the ECM itself have any LED's lit up on it? See if you can pull a code, and pray it's not a hardware code.

mjr46

fix the fusible links first and go from there, you could of fried nemerous components. such as selonoid and or starter

67mustang302

If you have access to a scanner that does real time data monitoring, then flip the ignition switch to on and check it to see if the sensors are getting voltage and producing signal. That can help you track down what got fried(if anything did).

LesteR723

I don't have access to a code reader that works ( i bought a OBD1 reader at Salvo Auto Parts and it doesn't work worth s**t ) but there is no check engine light. ECM is located on the passenger kick panel right? Didn't see any LED's lit up there.

The next thing i was going to do was fix the fusible links, the only reason we bypassed them is because we were getting absolutely nothing out of the car beforehand and wanted to see if we could get something out of it. I could have fried the new selenoid and starter?

I have no access to a scanner or code reader (Which works as mentioned), and i have asked at numerous parts stores if they have one available which i could use at the store or rent and none do for an OBD1 car.

mjr46

when you hook a battery up backwards ......new or not is a null and void subject to discuss......all bets are off...

67mustang302

Let's put it this way, modern cars are HEAVILY insulated because simply the act of you sticking the key in the ignition can cause a static discharge that's enough to fry the ECM, harness, most sensors and numerous other crap.

LesteR723

Yeah i meant i replaced those things AFTER i hooked it up backwards. like i hooked it up backwards, switched it and hooked it up right, replaced starter selenoid, ignition coil, battery cables, starter cable, starter, distributor cap and rotor.

LesteR723

FML =( any way for me to check to see if the ECM is fried?

ahittz24

Go under the drivers dash, start testing fuses, come back and report results please.