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I continue to post about my crappy car...

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Old 07-21-2009, 05:38 PM
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gobabygo
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Default I continue to post about my crappy car...

I have a 95GT that I got for a grand. The Paint looks like crap but I have a friend with a body shop. Don't plan on painting until I get a hood/front cap. Anyway on to my concern.

Over the passed 2 months i've dropped about 2.5 grand on the car between having the rearend entirely rebuilt with new 3.73's put in, new rotor's and break pads, new clutch/pressure plate/flywheel, new cobra MAF, and for what it's worth new 03 cobra rims/tires. The car still vibrates at a high speed, it's like a pusling vibration that comes and goes, I'm thinking drive shaft. The 2 bran-new ball joints I pressed in seem to be backing out, (someone told me they've had to tac weld them in sometimes)

So...

Question 1: If i purchase a new Kmember like a tubular one is it going to be as strong as or stronger than the stock one? Seems like the tubular kmember's are more for drag car's.

Question 2: is there a way to check the drive shaft to see if it's out of balance?

Question 3: Should I just sell this car to someone for parts and get another one to fix up?
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Old 07-21-2009, 05:44 PM
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disposablehero27
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vibration could be tire balance air pressure dented rim. worn tie rods or wheel bearings, aluminum driveshafts help with performance and reduce vibration as well. couple hundred bucks at american muscle. some things to check out. no idea about the members.
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Old 07-21-2009, 06:05 PM
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yeah rims and tires are new and highspeed balanced. I'm leaning to the drive shaft. The car was in a wreck and i'm thinking they moved it with a fork lift and bent the drive shaft. I got a friend that works at oreilly's so i'll check on the front berrings.

also here's a pic of my POS
you can see i've started priming it for some paint.
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Old 07-21-2009, 06:34 PM
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crusin92red5.0
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k members are usually as strong if not stronger than stock. and they're lighter.
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Old 07-21-2009, 06:51 PM
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I figured as much I just figured i'd ask since the current setup is like solid steel huge and heavy. Didn't know if the tubular member's were good for handleing.
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Old 07-21-2009, 06:52 PM
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I think i'm gonna replace the front hub assy's to start then get a driveshaft.
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Old 07-21-2009, 07:22 PM
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I wouldn't just start throwing parts on the car. you can check for play in bearings or if you don't want to do it yourself, take it to sears or firestone and they will do a sus. eval for free and that will determine if they need to be replaced.
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Old 07-21-2009, 07:33 PM
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FLcracker9
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It's pretty easy to have the driveshaft checked for straightness and balance. Just remove it, and take it to a competent driveshaft shop to be checked. If the shaft checks out good, there's no reason to replace it. Have you checked the transmission mount?. A K-member is stronger and reduces weight, but if you don't hit the track often, your money is probably better spent elsewhere.
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Old 07-21-2009, 07:36 PM
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gobabygo
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Originally Posted by FLcracker9
It's pretty easy to have the driveshaft checked for straightness and balance. Just remove it, and take it to a competent driveshaft shop to be checked. If the shaft checks out good, there's no reason to replace it. Have you checked the transmission mount?. A K-member is stronger and reduces weight, but if you don't hit the track often, your money is probably better spent elsewhere.
well the car has been wrecked before i got it. So i'm thinking a kmember would solve any issues lineing up.
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Old 07-21-2009, 08:01 PM
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just a little thing i had happen one time check your drive shaft bolts and make sure there tight lol i learn this with a vibration one time but bye the time i found the problem the driveshaft was half the legnth and the a$$ end sat as high as my 6 in lifted truck lol
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