cholericfc

bump....

AdderMk2

fixed it for ya

deceiver

I read most of the posts on this thread.. I would take a real close look at the sparkplug wires and the distributor cap / rotor.

It sounds like crossfire from one plug wire to ground, or to another plug.. this can happen when it is shaking or if it's not getting a good connection between the cap and the plug.

if in doubt about any of these parts change them with motorcraft replacement parts.

Hope this helps.

cholericfc

haha, I hope you did. whats that supposed to mean? Alright, so don't bother cleaning them, even though their a couple years old with less than 10,000miles. With my set-up, I guess you could go though O2 sensors more quickly, especially if their motorcraft replacements.

You know, the length of this thread does worry me at times, and I appreciate the fact that you took interest in it. That's music to my ears. My engine shakes A LOT. The cap/rotor/plugs/wires are all new. The wires aren't motorcraft. I check the plug wires, after every time I finish working on the car... What do you mean by crossfire, in relation to the plug wire and ground? what ground specifically?

The only thing not addressed thus far; or maybe you guys already have, is the "MAP or BARO sensor out of range" & "cylinder #1 has a problem"

I think that MAP/MAF sensor can cause 42 and 92 codes to appear? correct me if I'm wrong, but if so, would it be time for a new MAP sensor? and Where do I get one anyways?

Here are my problem codes & ---- what I plan to do::::

KOEO
22 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) or BARO sensor out of range ---- ????????
10 - cylinder #1 has a problem ---- spark plug?

KOER
42 - HEGO (HO2S) sensor voltage high/ system rich ---- Clean/Replace O2 sensors
92 - HEGO (HO2S) sensor voltage high/ system rich ---- Clean/Replace O2 sensors
13 - RPM at idle out of range/low ---- Idle already set at 850 / Problem fixed by above???

Thank you

deceiver

I was refering to the engine block or anything.. the spark would rather fire into anything besides a spark plug. if the wires are new then that should be good.

My next guess the fuel injector on number one.. not sure of the pinpoint test on that, maybe someone else would know. I would fix that cylinder #1 code before throwing more general parts at it. but I'm out of my league at this point as I have no experiance with that code.

paintballjerry

One thing to consider, and this is my opinion, there are actually two timing factors to look at. The first and most obvious is the spark. The second is the cam.

If you are having a #1 cyl. code, that is where your top dead center (TDC) (used for your timing advance) comes from. If your are having this code, this could be a very serious problem.

A car that I had once, although not a mustang, had a bad spot in the timg belt and I accelerated at the exact time when the flat spot was on the cam. This threw the timing of the valves way of the crank.

This problem caused alot of the exact same symptoms you describe:

No power
Sputtering
Backfires
Really hot engine
Loud valves

If you are firing when the intake valve is slightly open, will get heat in the intake, and could backfire though the plemum, this is bad. Also, if your TDC is not right, you will never get the spark timing right.

Now I know there is no timing belt but there is a chain. If it has any slack from being stretched it could cause you some issues because of backlash, especially at higher RPMs.

LIke I said, this may not be your problem, but it is a suspect. My $.02.

302army187

the MAP/BAP sensor detect's/calculates the altitude the car is at, im pretty sure.

if its throwing a code, it could very well gone bad, and cause all kinds of grief I would imagine.

they are not cheap though, I just looked them up real quick and 50resto is selling them for $110

cholericfc

The "cylinder #1 has a problem" - code, only comes on during the KOEO test. I've verified with a few people that agreed that my TDC was good. However, I wonder why and how my timing went from 13* to 20* on its own. A lose distributor? I highly doubt that. If my timing slipped, then is it possible that my TDC slipped as well?

paintballjerry

TDC does not slip. It is when the #1 cyl/piston is at the top of its ignition stroke. Your ignition timing means X ammount of degrees off TDC. This is why you put your timing light on the #1 spark plug wire. It flashes everytime it sparks and shows you the position on the balancer in degrees off TDC or 0.

cholericfc

This crate motor I bought three years ago, and the first thing that had to be done, was prime the engine and set cylinder #1 to TDC. I even had it checked out by two different mechanics over the years, and they said it was fine. Checking again couldn't hurt though.