Power loss, hesitatation, sputter, chug
07-14-2010, 10:05 AM
#142
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
I just finished putting on a stock thermostat housing, that I sandblasted and painted, and I think this one won't leak. Aftermarket ones just don't work well and I think its bc they have a bleed hole on the top - stock ones don't.
MJR - Your expertise has come handy in the past. Your 2 cents would be much appreciated.
MJR
MJR - Your expertise has come handy in the past. Your 2 cents would be much appreciated.
MJR
07-14-2010, 04:50 PM
#143
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 580
My issue is this. It runs fine and sounds good. When I drive it doesn't have as much power. There's a popping noise (pop pop pop) and hesitation. The hesitation feels the same as when you ride too low in gear - but in this circumstance - I'm high in rpms OR I have enough rpms. Where I had power at 2000rpms - I now have to go to 2500rpms. I have to give it more gas to GET OUT of the hesitation. It's forceful though. Last time I ran codes the O2s came up.
My mechanic says get an adjustable fuel regulator and that I don't have the right fuel injectors, but ford performance told me 24s are good. I'm getting too much fuel I think. The psi is at 39 when it should be at 36.
I think the only possible areas are distributor, tfi module, clutch is going, o2s, or a wiring issue, or maybe the ACT sensor.
Thanks.
My mechanic says get an adjustable fuel regulator and that I don't have the right fuel injectors, but ford performance told me 24s are good. I'm getting too much fuel I think. The psi is at 39 when it should be at 36.
I think the only possible areas are distributor, tfi module, clutch is going, o2s, or a wiring issue, or maybe the ACT sensor.
Thanks.
07-15-2010, 07:53 PM
#145
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
24's are fine, your mech is wrong, however i would get an adjustable fpr, I had to set my FP with vac off around 43 psi to clear up some issues, I run 24's in mine and have a little more than you in the way of an h/c/i.....what maf are you running?? also popping as such sounds like a lean condition...are you sure no vaccum leaks exist???
07-15-2010, 09:13 PM
#146
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 580
vacuum off on fpr - it should read about 39 for me (I believe). But, the fuel pressure is at 39 with the vacuum line ON, and ford performance told me it should read that - with it OFF. I mean, If I have a vacuum leak, I have no idea how to find out. Also, my vacuum gauge is reading about 8 - 10 at idle with my timing set at 10. Before it was reading vacuum at 10-15 with timing set at 12 - give or take. My mechanic seems to think its bc of my radical cam - but I beg to differ - idunno.
07-15-2010, 09:22 PM
#147
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: GA
Posts: 139
-you do lose some vacuum with a beefier cam (that's why speed density cars have issues when putting in one with too much lift)
-you can always get some carb or brake cleaner and spray it around your engine and if your engine idles up then it sucked in that brake cleaner and burned it...aka you have a vac leak
-you can always get some carb or brake cleaner and spray it around your engine and if your engine idles up then it sucked in that brake cleaner and burned it...aka you have a vac leak
Last edited by pete88gt; 07-15-2010 at 09:30 PM.
07-16-2010, 03:33 AM
#148
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: colorado
Posts: 6,395
sounds like a tuning issue to me sir.
if you read about the issue I had, they where solved by tuning for the most part. I am still having some hiccup's but I think my roller rockers just need adjusting.
if you read about the issue I had, they where solved by tuning for the most part. I am still having some hiccup's but I think my roller rockers just need adjusting.
07-17-2010, 12:12 AM
#149
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 580
I ran codes today. 44, which is basically tad and tab solenoids. I no longer have my smog pump, so vac lines are capped off with rubber bypass thingers. Also, my thermostat housing keeps leaking. I've tried 2 different aftermarket housings and I'm back to my stock one. It still leaks - but I think its a combination of wrong gasket and wrong sealer (brown). Sunday I'm gonna just use that ultra black stuff with no gasket.
***The second thermostat housing didn't start leaking until after two 20 mile trips. basically once it started leaking - the popping/hesitation/power loss came back. Would it throw off my ECT and ACT sensors and make the car run funny?
Also, The o2 sensor codes went away ??? Is this because I lowered my timing or could they still need replacing?
***The second thermostat housing didn't start leaking until after two 20 mile trips. basically once it started leaking - the popping/hesitation/power loss came back. Would it throw off my ECT and ACT sensors and make the car run funny?
Also, The o2 sensor codes went away ??? Is this because I lowered my timing or could they still need replacing?
Last edited by cholericfc; 07-17-2010 at 12:16 AM.