Power loss, hesitatation, sputter, chug
03-20-2016, 08:46 PM
#171
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: ne
Posts: 1
The things that I replaced, i did in fact need, all besides the fuel lines.. fan and clutch were inevitable.. The car still runs iffy... But I agree with you, I should diagnose a little more... and it would help me out in many ways.
I did in fact look at the spark plugs, when I replaced them, and they looked fine - gaps were still good, no deposits, wear, or fuel fouled.
My next form action is to get my mechanic to run codes.
I did in fact look at the spark plugs, when I replaced them, and they looked fine - gaps were still good, no deposits, wear, or fuel fouled.
My next form action is to get my mechanic to run codes.
11-02-2017, 10:06 AM
#172
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Ga
Posts: 1
No, I gotchya man. A lot of these parts I just WANT and don't need. hah That's why I got them. When you have money to throw around it just works that way.
But, the problem is NOT easy to find on the internet. The problem is not easy to figure out. Something funked up is going on.
Also, you should read, because I've fixed a lot of problem areas while upgrading others. I bought a sensor kit from 50resto and only half of the sensors are ON. The other half are boxed and sitting around for the future if their needed.
But, the problem is NOT easy to find on the internet. The problem is not easy to figure out. Something funked up is going on.
Also, you should read, because I've fixed a lot of problem areas while upgrading others. I bought a sensor kit from 50resto and only half of the sensors are ON. The other half are boxed and sitting around for the future if their needed.
Been following your posts for a while but i've got the same problem but on a 2002 super crew I have replaced everything and still have the problem if you figure out what it ends up being please let me know im on the verge of just getting rid of my truck and getting another one but i have to much money in it now to try
01-06-2018, 02:57 PM
#174
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1
Can you explain ?
[QUOTE=cholericfc;7135475]hahaha. I found out the answer to the riddle. Here's the short story:
Recently, my vacuum gauge has been decreasing.. It ran at 5-7 the other day right as my brakes pedal was hard as a rock. It sounded like a cat hissing underneath the hood. Long story short....I found out the following yesterday:
Thank you for responding about how you fixed your car . But I am wondering how you came to find out there was an Internal leak in your brake Booster? ........... I am having a hard time figuring out whats going on with my engine having issues with back firing ,rough Idle, loss of power and no response to giving it gas , almost like i didn't hold my pedal to the floor but I did.... Well I also remembered that last time my car was running perfect but once I hit the brakes and it felt like they were manual not power brakes. The pedal was hard as a rock and I almost hit the car in front of me. I am not positive if I hear a hissing sound but I honestly think the booster may have went bad. If this sounds like it might be could you please let me know if this sounds familiar to you ..............""""" 1.) Theirs an internal vacuum leak inside the brake booster."""""
Recently, my vacuum gauge has been decreasing.. It ran at 5-7 the other day right as my brakes pedal was hard as a rock. It sounded like a cat hissing underneath the hood. Long story short....I found out the following yesterday:
Thank you for responding about how you fixed your car . But I am wondering how you came to find out there was an Internal leak in your brake Booster? ........... I am having a hard time figuring out whats going on with my engine having issues with back firing ,rough Idle, loss of power and no response to giving it gas , almost like i didn't hold my pedal to the floor but I did.... Well I also remembered that last time my car was running perfect but once I hit the brakes and it felt like they were manual not power brakes. The pedal was hard as a rock and I almost hit the car in front of me. I am not positive if I hear a hissing sound but I honestly think the booster may have went bad. If this sounds like it might be could you please let me know if this sounds familiar to you ..............""""" 1.) Theirs an internal vacuum leak inside the brake booster."""""
01-11-2018, 10:45 AM
#175
[QUOTE=joefloatin1;8611846]
The first thing to do is check the vacuum hose & check valve on the brake booster. Check the hose for a leak or clog.If its leaking,it'll create a vacuum leak which can trigger the rough idle & other symptoms you listed.A clog will cause no power assist to the brakes because of the vacuum source being cutoff to the booster.
The check valve is pushed into a rubber grommet on the front of the booster or its inline with the brake booster vacuum hose itself. Remove the valve and try blowing through both sides of the valve.Air should only pass through the booster side of the valve towards the vacuum tree or intake,but not the opposite direction. If air passes in the opposite direction or doesn't pass through either side of the valve,its defective.
This is a couple of quick tests you can do.The link at the bottom is the longer version.
2) A leaking brake booster may also cause an engine to run badly. Leaks in the brake booster provide a vacuum leak to the engine. One quick test for leakage, is to turn the engine off and press the brake pedal. If the pedal still has one or two assisted applications before getting hard to press, likely no leak exists.
3) Another simple test is to apply the brake pedal several times without the engine running, to exhaust the vacuum. After the pedal becomes hard to push, hold it down and start the engine. A good booster, with an adequate vacuum will cause the pedal to drop slightly. This is because the booster greatly increases pressure applied by the pedal.
This link has some great illustrations of the booster in different operating positions,which details its function clearly.
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/129
hahaha. I found out the answer to the riddle. Here's the short story:
Recently, my vacuum gauge has been decreasing.. It ran at 5-7 the other day right as my brakes pedal was hard as a rock. It sounded like a cat hissing underneath the hood. Long story short....I found out the following yesterday:
Thank you for responding about how you fixed your car . But I am wondering how you came to find out there was an Internal leak in your brake Booster? ........... I am having a hard time figuring out whats going on with my engine having issues with back firing ,rough Idle, loss of power and no response to giving it gas , almost like i didn't hold my pedal to the floor but I did.... Well I also remembered that last time my car was running perfect but once I hit the brakes and it felt like they were manual not power brakes. The pedal was hard as a rock and I almost hit the car in front of me. I am not positive if I hear a hissing sound but I honestly think the booster may have went bad. If this sounds like it might be could you please let me know if this sounds familiar to you ..............""""" 1.) Theirs an internal vacuum leak inside the brake booster."""""
Recently, my vacuum gauge has been decreasing.. It ran at 5-7 the other day right as my brakes pedal was hard as a rock. It sounded like a cat hissing underneath the hood. Long story short....I found out the following yesterday:
Thank you for responding about how you fixed your car . But I am wondering how you came to find out there was an Internal leak in your brake Booster? ........... I am having a hard time figuring out whats going on with my engine having issues with back firing ,rough Idle, loss of power and no response to giving it gas , almost like i didn't hold my pedal to the floor but I did.... Well I also remembered that last time my car was running perfect but once I hit the brakes and it felt like they were manual not power brakes. The pedal was hard as a rock and I almost hit the car in front of me. I am not positive if I hear a hissing sound but I honestly think the booster may have went bad. If this sounds like it might be could you please let me know if this sounds familiar to you ..............""""" 1.) Theirs an internal vacuum leak inside the brake booster."""""
The check valve is pushed into a rubber grommet on the front of the booster or its inline with the brake booster vacuum hose itself. Remove the valve and try blowing through both sides of the valve.Air should only pass through the booster side of the valve towards the vacuum tree or intake,but not the opposite direction. If air passes in the opposite direction or doesn't pass through either side of the valve,its defective.
This is a couple of quick tests you can do.The link at the bottom is the longer version.
(Testing the booster)
1) We use a vacuum gauge to check for an adequate vacuum. The vacuum at the brake booster should be around 16-20 inches. Insufficient amounts can result from a restricted source and sometimes engine running problems. For instance a pluggedcatalytic converter can lower engine vacuum and result in poor brake booster performance. A bad vacuum leak in the intake may also cause a lower vacuum.2) A leaking brake booster may also cause an engine to run badly. Leaks in the brake booster provide a vacuum leak to the engine. One quick test for leakage, is to turn the engine off and press the brake pedal. If the pedal still has one or two assisted applications before getting hard to press, likely no leak exists.
3) Another simple test is to apply the brake pedal several times without the engine running, to exhaust the vacuum. After the pedal becomes hard to push, hold it down and start the engine. A good booster, with an adequate vacuum will cause the pedal to drop slightly. This is because the booster greatly increases pressure applied by the pedal.
This link has some great illustrations of the booster in different operating positions,which details its function clearly.
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/129
Last edited by wbrockstar; 01-11-2018 at 12:45 PM.
07-29-2019, 12:05 PM
#176
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Texas
Posts: 1
07-15-2022, 11:11 AM
#177
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Washington
Posts: 1
The description of your problem fits the symptoms of a common Fox body issue involving the baffle inside the fuel tank. It breaks loose over the years, then eventually just swims around the tank, lodging itself in various places, breaking the sending unit for the gauge, and sometimes lodging itself underneath the pump, causing a volume flow issue, which would in turn create your exact symptoms, to a T.
I'm sure other people are going to chime in with sensors to test, etc... After all that doesn't work, go ahead and drop the tank. Open up the fuel pump side of it(the right side) and look down. When you don't see the baffle neatly welded to the tank, encompassing the pump nice and cleanly, go ahead and replace the tank. Problem solved.
I'm sure other people are going to chime in with sensors to test, etc... After all that doesn't work, go ahead and drop the tank. Open up the fuel pump side of it(the right side) and look down. When you don't see the baffle neatly welded to the tank, encompassing the pump nice and cleanly, go ahead and replace the tank. Problem solved.
This isn't exactly true because my 95 mustang is doing the exact same thing and I just dropped my tank and even replaced my fuel pump and filter and my car is still doing the same thing I've replaced most of the sensors , the spark plugs , the wires, the brain and I'm still having the same problems I'll be driving and and all of a sudden the car will just dump the power I can keep going and sometimes it will all of a sudden give me back full power only to loose it again a short distance down the road sometimes I won't loose it at all and can drive for several miles before I lose power but most of the time I just pull over shut the car off real quick and restart it and have full power again only to loose it again a block down the road so if someone has any ideas please help please.
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