Hamutoff

Howdy. I believe that I am going to be able to keep my R12 AC connected and still not have to cut the heater box to change the core. The car has 150,000 and the leaky core is the STOCK UNIT it appears.

TELL ME what core should I replace it with, you can see the aluminum unit or the brass, tin unit there in the pictures. Note how the stock OEM is brazed to support the larger tube.


http://www.thatmetalbox.com/automoti...erCore110.html

Hamutoff

and

Tony71502

Wait who said you had to disc your A/C to get to the heater core? I didn't.

ALMOST STOCK

This is what I can tell you about the heater core with and without the brazed support of the the larger tube.

I replaced my heater core with the brazed support because I figured as long as I had the dash out now would be a good time to replace it,


so I ordered a new heater core from 50 resto and that core came without the brazed support.

I installed the new heater core put the dash back together and then slipped the heater hoses from heater tube assembly over the 2 tubes coming through the firewall from the heater core (I never clamped those hoses in place), the next day I decided that I need to remove the larger rubber hose from the core and this is what happened.


Needles to say I went to Ford and bought another heater core with the brazed support.

mjr46

where do you get an aluminum core at??

Hamutoff

ha ha oops guess I must have forgot to run things by you first ~
Chilton
Hayes
ford service manual
ford TSB

all mention as a matter of fact the need to discharge the ac

the only alt. solutions I have seen involve cutting the heck out of the heater box

Hamutoff

LMR

take a look at

http://www.mylrs.com/blogs/lrs/archi...placement.aspx

I thought that because I have
1)alum heads
2)alum lower intake
3)alum radiator

that having an alum heater core might reduce the number of different types of metals in the coolant bath and therefore possibly reduce galvanic reactions

What do you think?

mjr46

that was a link to the repair got a link to the part and cost, ?? reason I ask is my 92 needs the repair and I might go with an aluminum one as the standard ones keep rotting out, this will be my forth in 3 years, I even added extra ground straps to protect against electrolisis

Hamutoff

yup... I bought mine directly from FORD... its made in Mexico just like the stock unit... hmmm its missing the support... perhaps I can place a washer in the space or something else to act like a shim... and braze or solder it myself, what do you think?

Hamutoff

yup that link had all the info to the product for purchase and price etc

electrolysis protection... #1 make sure you are running anti corrosives. This could mean running 50-60% antifreeze/coolant. Higher than 70% is not recommended. Reducing the number of different types of metals will also reduce electrolysis.

The worst thing you could do is have 100% distilled water in an engine with an iron block and aluminum heads, intake, brass radiator maybe copper heater core, all the different metals in the bath of heated conducting fluid would promote metal loss on the least noble metal


if you go through them that often then it is very possible you have a short. Check for current in your coolant (hah that sounds weird) if you do then disconnect fuses etc until the meter shows acceptable values then you would know the faulty circuit: check TSB for specs