luckythirteen13

ok my brakes are a joke. with a dyno tune coming soon im expecting another 200hp out of my motor so im going to need to be able to stop. right now i can push the peddle all the way to the floor and it still slowly comes to a stop. i have to push the peddle half way down before the car even responds. anyways, it has the stock fluid in it from 92 so i figure i might as well fill the whole system with fresh fluid and get the air bubbles out my buddy put in there when he attempted to bleed one of the brakes himself. i was thinking about getting this kit http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...o?itemid=92474

what do you think?

mjr46

no need for any kit, get your buddy in the car and pump the pedal up and then hold it down and you open the bleeder until it squirts a steady stream of fluid without air bubble interuptions

mattdel

your pedal travels that far because the back brakes are out of adjustment. the proportioning valve engages the rear brakes first and doesn't apply anything to the front of the car until the rears catch, so that the car will not nosedive into the ground.

adjust the rears so that you can spin the wheel and by the time it does a full revolution, it stops by itself.

luckythirteen13

we tried that once, done with that. i want to flush the whole system, not just get out bubbles.

and matt, if thats the case, i have free brakes for life through midas so ill just let them do it. bought that thing when i first got the car and have yet to go in for new rear brakes. i just hate other people touching my car, hate people driving my car even more.

mattdel

use http://www.bgfindashop.com/locator/index.php to find a shop with a BG Brake System Flusher.

bill_w

I've used kit's similar to those (Mighty-vac version) and they really dont do well for brake bleeding. Too much air will seep in around the bleeder screw and rubber adapter. Best bet is a pressure bleeder or flush system.

I think though, your not going to get the results your looking for with just a flush. Time for upgrades

mjr46

if you tried it and it doesn't work you have another issue , bleed hundreds of brakes that way.....either your rear brakes are out of adjustment...in this case you'd still have a firm pedal just excessive travel, if it is soft and spongy and this happened out of the blue before attempting any work, systems don't just get air in them that are sealed to begin with, something caused it, often with a low pedal that sinks to the floor it is a result of a faulty master cylinder, in that case bleeding/flushing does nothing to restore the pedal, if you can't bleed it the way I stated, you have another issue at hand..LUK

Tony71502

Old *** brake fluid could have been boiled who knows how many times. I realize your drag racing, but ever wonder why alot of autoX course require your brake system to have been fully bleed in the last year... or if you have been beating on them at the course they'd like the fluid changed since the last event you participated in.

Manual bleeding FTW. Never any issues. And you don't have to pay for a power bleeder...

1ATony

I agree with these guys. Having a friend pump up the pedal while you crack the bleeder is the best way to do it.

I've done it a million times in our body shop.

luckythirteen13

alright, guess ill try it that way. will save some money thats for sure. hopefully in the next week i can take the car in for rear brakes. when i got the service done last time they said that my rear drums would need replacing in the next six months....this was over 5 years ago. guess im over due. and with all the burn outs at the track and on the street, who knows whats going on back there.

for the record, i have performance rotors and hawk pads up front (pads are probably worn by now tho). hard to keep track of whats wearing out and whats not because it sat for a year and a half and is now just recently being driven again.