Ignition?
09-12-2009, 07:39 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 44
Ignition?
SOLVED - thing was ghetto rigged. Lasted a year since I bought from the guy. Impressed at the shady patchwork he did on such an inexpensive part. Glad to have sorted it out. Thanks!!!
I've been trouble shooting the power loss/hesitation side of the vehicle and feel like I'm making ground. However, I still have what seems to be an electrical problem.
For a few weeks now the car has died randomly here and there while being driven. This is not a dire problem, as long as it fires back up.
Sometimes it will be very very stubborn to fire up, generally after it's been running for a while.
I can clutch in, turn the engine on, but I have to hold the key all the way forward to maintain the engine running. Then, I can clutch out in first and drive it as long as the key is held forward. When I clutch in again to shift, or when I turn the key loose, it dies and I have to repeat
Eventually, with enough attempts and enough momentum, the car stays powered up and I can continue moving along
The only engine code I have left is 33 - EGR not opening/closing fully.
An interesting note - most cars I've ever been in require the key to be turned about 2/3s forward to engage the accessories. I noticed last night that I had to turn my key all the way forward, as if I were trying to start the car without clutching, to engage the accessories.
While that doesn't scream ignition, it seems like a possibility. I'll read up more as the day goes on, but thought I'd collect some opinions.
The EGR and related components can supposedly cause all the car's problems. Unfortunately, every other component I've read on has "symptoms" that seem to cover a wide variety of things.
Also, sometimes the key is very sensitive. If you bump it back just slightly, everything shuts off quickly. Sometimes it's not so sensitive. I'm left to assume that the ignition is getting worn out and might be on it's way out the door.
Thoughts?
91 LX, 306, gt40 heads, trickflow cam/intake, 70mm maf/tb, forged internals, FR valve covers, other misc stuff outside engine bay.
Fresh dizzy, coil, fp and fpr. Fairly new plugs and wires. New o2s. Cleaning filter and MAF later, though they look pretty good where they're sittin
I've been trouble shooting the power loss/hesitation side of the vehicle and feel like I'm making ground. However, I still have what seems to be an electrical problem.
For a few weeks now the car has died randomly here and there while being driven. This is not a dire problem, as long as it fires back up.
Sometimes it will be very very stubborn to fire up, generally after it's been running for a while.
I can clutch in, turn the engine on, but I have to hold the key all the way forward to maintain the engine running. Then, I can clutch out in first and drive it as long as the key is held forward. When I clutch in again to shift, or when I turn the key loose, it dies and I have to repeat
Eventually, with enough attempts and enough momentum, the car stays powered up and I can continue moving along
The only engine code I have left is 33 - EGR not opening/closing fully.
An interesting note - most cars I've ever been in require the key to be turned about 2/3s forward to engage the accessories. I noticed last night that I had to turn my key all the way forward, as if I were trying to start the car without clutching, to engage the accessories.
While that doesn't scream ignition, it seems like a possibility. I'll read up more as the day goes on, but thought I'd collect some opinions.
The EGR and related components can supposedly cause all the car's problems. Unfortunately, every other component I've read on has "symptoms" that seem to cover a wide variety of things.
Also, sometimes the key is very sensitive. If you bump it back just slightly, everything shuts off quickly. Sometimes it's not so sensitive. I'm left to assume that the ignition is getting worn out and might be on it's way out the door.
Thoughts?
91 LX, 306, gt40 heads, trickflow cam/intake, 70mm maf/tb, forged internals, FR valve covers, other misc stuff outside engine bay.
Fresh dizzy, coil, fp and fpr. Fairly new plugs and wires. New o2s. Cleaning filter and MAF later, though they look pretty good where they're sittin
Last edited by mtoliverjr; 09-13-2009 at 08:13 AM.
09-12-2009, 10:21 AM
#2
M.A.D. Motorsports
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 8,014
I've been trouble shooting the power loss/hesitation side of the vehicle and feel like I'm making ground. However, I still have what seems to be an electrical problem.
For a few weeks now the car has died randomly here and there while being driven. This is not a dire problem, as long as it fires back up.
Sometimes it will be very very stubborn to fire up, generally after it's been running for a while.
I can clutch in, turn the engine on, but I have to hold the key all the way forward to maintain the engine running. Then, I can clutch out in first and drive it as long as the key is held forward. When I clutch in again to shift, or when I turn the key loose, it dies and I have to repeat
Eventually, with enough attempts and enough momentum, the car stays powered up and I can continue moving along
The only engine code I have left is 33 - EGR not opening/closing fully.
An interesting note - most cars I've ever been in require the key to be turned about 2/3s forward to engage the accessories. I noticed last night that I had to turn my key all the way forward, as if I were trying to start the car without clutching, to engage the accessories.
While that doesn't scream ignition, it seems like a possibility. I'll read up more as the day goes on, but thought I'd collect some opinions.
The EGR and related components can supposedly cause all the car's problems. Unfortunately, every other component I've read on has "symptoms" that seem to cover a wide variety of things.
Also, sometimes the key is very sensitive. If you bump it back just slightly, everything shuts off quickly. Sometimes it's not so sensitive. I'm left to assume that the ignition is getting worn out and might be on it's way out the door.
Thoughts?
For a few weeks now the car has died randomly here and there while being driven. This is not a dire problem, as long as it fires back up.
Sometimes it will be very very stubborn to fire up, generally after it's been running for a while.
I can clutch in, turn the engine on, but I have to hold the key all the way forward to maintain the engine running. Then, I can clutch out in first and drive it as long as the key is held forward. When I clutch in again to shift, or when I turn the key loose, it dies and I have to repeat
Eventually, with enough attempts and enough momentum, the car stays powered up and I can continue moving along
The only engine code I have left is 33 - EGR not opening/closing fully.
An interesting note - most cars I've ever been in require the key to be turned about 2/3s forward to engage the accessories. I noticed last night that I had to turn my key all the way forward, as if I were trying to start the car without clutching, to engage the accessories.
While that doesn't scream ignition, it seems like a possibility. I'll read up more as the day goes on, but thought I'd collect some opinions.
The EGR and related components can supposedly cause all the car's problems. Unfortunately, every other component I've read on has "symptoms" that seem to cover a wide variety of things.
Also, sometimes the key is very sensitive. If you bump it back just slightly, everything shuts off quickly. Sometimes it's not so sensitive. I'm left to assume that the ignition is getting worn out and might be on it's way out the door.
Thoughts?
09-12-2009, 07:12 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 44
Going to check the ground wires, esp the small negative leading to the fender apron. It looks like that wire used to branch into 2 wires. 1 of them is clipped.
I wish I had my digital camera. I just replaced the ignition switch w/o replace the key portion.
Once I had the shroud moved out of the way, I saw tape wrapping the switch, and 2 zip ties on top of that. Once the ties were cut, as I peeled back the tape, the bottom half of the switch came with the tape while 2-6 little parts fell out. Then the metal part was a bitch to remove.
Needless to say, 10 bucks and 3 hours later the thing was replaced (it didn't crank once I got to work, and I thought I could ghetto drive it home. help in the form of a ride and tools took a while.)
Solved for now. Wires to be checked. Thanks much guys =D
I wish I had my digital camera. I just replaced the ignition switch w/o replace the key portion.
Once I had the shroud moved out of the way, I saw tape wrapping the switch, and 2 zip ties on top of that. Once the ties were cut, as I peeled back the tape, the bottom half of the switch came with the tape while 2-6 little parts fell out. Then the metal part was a bitch to remove.
Needless to say, 10 bucks and 3 hours later the thing was replaced (it didn't crank once I got to work, and I thought I could ghetto drive it home. help in the form of a ride and tools took a while.)
Solved for now. Wires to be checked. Thanks much guys =D
09-13-2009, 08:10 AM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 44
there were a couple of months that my main negative was cracked at the block. I didn't think to replace the small one, even though i eventually discovered it was carrying the load of the main negative in about 1/20th the size of a wire. the thing got so hot it melted through the sheaths on some other wire component.
so those wires will be switched. but i think that ignition could have easily been the source of a few other problems, or at least contributed to some of my random symptoms.
appreciate all the help again =D
so those wires will be switched. but i think that ignition could have easily been the source of a few other problems, or at least contributed to some of my random symptoms.
appreciate all the help again =D
09-13-2009, 02:41 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 44
Dallas
I still have some significant power loss. I'm hoping replacing those small wires conveys a better signal to the ecm. It's also still remapping the ratio, which I'm not sure how long that takes in an OBDI car.
The guy at dallas mustang told me 91 lx OEM ecm is "rather dumb", so I'm not sure what other sensors to worry bout.
think i'll clean the IAT and MAF and filter. I've heard of taking off a vacuum line and spraying, slowly, brake cleaner into intake to clear that out. Is that ill-advised, or ok to do if I'm careful with the volume per spray
I still have some significant power loss. I'm hoping replacing those small wires conveys a better signal to the ecm. It's also still remapping the ratio, which I'm not sure how long that takes in an OBDI car.
The guy at dallas mustang told me 91 lx OEM ecm is "rather dumb", so I'm not sure what other sensors to worry bout.
think i'll clean the IAT and MAF and filter. I've heard of taking off a vacuum line and spraying, slowly, brake cleaner into intake to clear that out. Is that ill-advised, or ok to do if I'm careful with the volume per spray
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