new engine break in procedure?
10-01-2009, 12:02 AM
#4
4th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location:
Posts: 1,267
Best thing you can do is drive it as you normally would. Don't baby it or anything stupid despite what anybody tells you, people just hear that from the dealership and think it's true, when it's not, they say that for warranty purposes, that's the worst thing you can do. The ONLY thing different you should do with a new engine over an old one, is don't drive at a constant speed. So no cruise control or anything for the first couple thousand miles.
This isn't a matter of opinion, this is from experience, building engines, working in a shop, school (not high school.), and the engine rebuild shop we work with. All of which say the exact same thing.
This isn't a matter of opinion, this is from experience, building engines, working in a shop, school (not high school.), and the engine rebuild shop we work with. All of which say the exact same thing.
10-01-2009, 12:08 AM
#5
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Spfld, MA
Posts: 9,240
If the wrong type of oil is used initially, or the break-in is too easy, rings and cylinders could glaze and never seal properly. A fresh cylinder wall needs some medium to high engine loading to get the piston rings to seat properly for good compression but make sure you don't lug or overheat the engine. Use high quality, low viscosity oil (Valvoline 30 weight), no synthetics, too slippery. If synthetics are used during initial break in, the rings are sure to glaze over.
An engine's initial run should be used to bring oil and coolant up to operating temperature only, with little or no load, then shut down and allowed to cool to ambient temperature. This is important. After each run the engine needs to completely cool down to ambient temperature.
After a cool down period, start it up again. This time give the engine light loads at relatively low rpm and stay out of top gear. Lugging the engine, i.e., low RPM with a lot of throttle (manifold pressure), is more detrimental than high rpm. Another key is too constantly vary engine load during the entire break-in period. A constant load is not ideal for breaking in bearing tolerances. This second run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down.
The third run should see slightly higher rpm with light to medium power loading using short bursts of acceleration to help seat the rings. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. A forth run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and again avoiding top gear. Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Most of the metal particles will break away within the first 50 -75 miles. To ensure the rings seat well, use the same high quality oil and don't be shy about short duration high rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed.
A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engine's redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After some definite hard running and 250-500 miles it's a good idea to check the valves. After 500 miles re-torqueing the head is suggested.
An engine's initial run should be used to bring oil and coolant up to operating temperature only, with little or no load, then shut down and allowed to cool to ambient temperature. This is important. After each run the engine needs to completely cool down to ambient temperature.
After a cool down period, start it up again. This time give the engine light loads at relatively low rpm and stay out of top gear. Lugging the engine, i.e., low RPM with a lot of throttle (manifold pressure), is more detrimental than high rpm. Another key is too constantly vary engine load during the entire break-in period. A constant load is not ideal for breaking in bearing tolerances. This second run should last only 10-15 minutes before another complete cool down.
The third run should see slightly higher rpm with light to medium power loading using short bursts of acceleration to help seat the rings. Again 10-15 minutes of running should do it and again avoid top gear. A forth run should consist of light to medium engine loads with a few more bursts of medium-high rpm, and lasting just 10-15 minutes varying the engine load and again avoiding top gear. Next while the engine is still warm drain the oil and change the filter. This gets out the new metal particles that are being worn away. Most of the metal particles will break away within the first 50 -75 miles. To ensure the rings seat well, use the same high quality oil and don't be shy about short duration high rpm blasts through the lower gears after the oil has been changed.
A few more 15-20 minute sessions should be used to work up to the engine's redline gradually increasing the engine loads. After some definite hard running and 250-500 miles it's a good idea to check the valves. After 500 miles re-torqueing the head is suggested.
10-01-2009, 07:06 AM
#9
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
Redemption all you need to do is start it up, look for leaks , make sure all sounds normal, drive around the block and make sure it drives as it should, then let it rip!!!! if something is wrong it'll manifest itself immidiately or shortly thereafter......the fallacy of ring break in is just that!!!! the way most rings are nowadays/ moly rings, they are seated in the first 20 min of run time!! ask a real builder about this/ woody at ford strokers, and as far as oil goes 10w 30 will be fine as for the reason stated above, did just that/all what I stated above and no issues, infact done it on many motors...good luck 
10-01-2009, 08:18 AM
#10
Say you took it to someone to have it built and put in the car. Do you think they are going to let you have the car without trying it out? Mjr is right, just check for leaks and then run the hell out of it on the way back. If you get pulled over, tell them you were breaking the car in. Don't forget to check the oil and to change the oil after a few hundred miles though.