Figuring out the puzzle
#1
Figuring out the puzzle
Long detailed post
Ok, recently inherited a 5.0 that had not ran in a good year or so. Upon getting it started with new fuel and choking on exhaust fumes that smelled of straight gas, i pulled a plug it was black with a ton of soot. Trashed the champion plugs that were in it put new autolite 104's in. Also turned down the fuel pressure. Here is my issue with the maf unplugged i get the engine light to come on, it starts and idles ok, drives a bit rough, spits, hesitates and back fires at WOT. With the MAF plugged in it, it starts dies, starts dies, this goes on for a while until i start playing with the throttle and tapping it to keep it running occasionally when hitting the throttle with the maf plugged in it just sounds like it floods out and starts to die until you take foot off throttle. I can get it to run eventually with MAF plugged in but it idles at 2000 rpms constantly. Only codes i'm getting with maf unplugged is voltage issue in maf and EEC has not learned idle. With Maf Plugged in, but no saved codes except complaining the smog pump is gone and air diverter issue. Even with maf unplugged it still smells rich and pulling a plug after a short drive it was turning black.
GT40 head
30# injectors
76mm C&L MAF set for 30# - purple tube
X303 cam
Acell ignition
Unfortunately there is a lot about the car I don't know. I know it has a new fuel pump done right before the injectors were done but not sure on size or flow. Fuel pressure was at 60lbs down to 38lbs right now trying to get rid of the severe over rich condition i was experiencing. Any ideas or suggestions i'm thinking my MAF might be bad? How bad would it be to plug the stock MAF back in? Have lots more questions but trying not to deal with to many issues at one time.
Ok, recently inherited a 5.0 that had not ran in a good year or so. Upon getting it started with new fuel and choking on exhaust fumes that smelled of straight gas, i pulled a plug it was black with a ton of soot. Trashed the champion plugs that were in it put new autolite 104's in. Also turned down the fuel pressure. Here is my issue with the maf unplugged i get the engine light to come on, it starts and idles ok, drives a bit rough, spits, hesitates and back fires at WOT. With the MAF plugged in it, it starts dies, starts dies, this goes on for a while until i start playing with the throttle and tapping it to keep it running occasionally when hitting the throttle with the maf plugged in it just sounds like it floods out and starts to die until you take foot off throttle. I can get it to run eventually with MAF plugged in but it idles at 2000 rpms constantly. Only codes i'm getting with maf unplugged is voltage issue in maf and EEC has not learned idle. With Maf Plugged in, but no saved codes except complaining the smog pump is gone and air diverter issue. Even with maf unplugged it still smells rich and pulling a plug after a short drive it was turning black.
GT40 head
30# injectors
76mm C&L MAF set for 30# - purple tube
X303 cam
Acell ignition
Unfortunately there is a lot about the car I don't know. I know it has a new fuel pump done right before the injectors were done but not sure on size or flow. Fuel pressure was at 60lbs down to 38lbs right now trying to get rid of the severe over rich condition i was experiencing. Any ideas or suggestions i'm thinking my MAF might be bad? How bad would it be to plug the stock MAF back in? Have lots more questions but trying not to deal with to many issues at one time.
#3
wow really. 30# injectors on a stock motor? really? someone didn't know what they were doing. 30# injectors are suitable for... upwards of 375-400whp.
go back to stock maf and injectors, leave FP where it is currently, and give it a spin.
go back to stock maf and injectors, leave FP where it is currently, and give it a spin.
#4
its not exactly a stock motor. its got the gt40 heads, x303 cam all from what i've read a great place to start before larger injectors. Next question someone busted the bottom of the clip on the MAF. Is that connector something that is easily replaced? I know the plan was to eventually put a super charger on it but they never got that far. They were going for around 400whp with what is on it. Course I think they tried to much to fast since the T5 won't handle that much HP without grenading itself from what i've read.
But to get it running/drivable going back to the 19# injectors and stock maf make the most sense. Because its sounding like I don't have much chance to get it running descent with the 30# unless i go find a supercharger.
But to get it running/drivable going back to the 19# injectors and stock maf make the most sense. Because its sounding like I don't have much chance to get it running descent with the 30# unless i go find a supercharger.
#5
yep best bet go back to the stock injectors and maf as far as for the maf pig tail
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...Q5fAccessories
#7
Wow, you have just about the same set up that I'm currently working with....
5.0 Long Block
9:1 Compression
GT-40X aluminum Heads
Roller Rocker and Lifters
X303 Cam
73mm C&L MAF and 30# calibration
Cobra Intake (Home ported bottom end)
30# injectors
1" Spacer between the Upper and Lower.
I'm working basically the same issues as you but am moving forward and the car is now Idleing well "nice rump rump".
Start die Start die, turned out to be a vacume leak between the upper and lower, cleaned this up by removing the gaskets between the spacer and replaceing it with RTV. I also had to adjust the Idle Screw to about 1000 RPM initially.
Reset the timing to 10 Degrees and replugged in the Spout Connecter, in about 2 Mins the computer took over any timing dropped down to 600 RPMS....
Now I'm thinking the Base Timing should be moved to about 14 since the car has lost alot of bottem end but that is to be expected the the X303.
Good Luck.
5.0 Long Block
9:1 Compression
GT-40X aluminum Heads
Roller Rocker and Lifters
X303 Cam
73mm C&L MAF and 30# calibration
Cobra Intake (Home ported bottom end)
30# injectors
1" Spacer between the Upper and Lower.
I'm working basically the same issues as you but am moving forward and the car is now Idleing well "nice rump rump".
Start die Start die, turned out to be a vacume leak between the upper and lower, cleaned this up by removing the gaskets between the spacer and replaceing it with RTV. I also had to adjust the Idle Screw to about 1000 RPM initially.
Reset the timing to 10 Degrees and replugged in the Spout Connecter, in about 2 Mins the computer took over any timing dropped down to 600 RPMS....
Now I'm thinking the Base Timing should be moved to about 14 since the car has lost alot of bottem end but that is to be expected the the X303.
Good Luck.
#8
#9
I'm working basically the same issues as you but am moving forward and the car is now Idleing well "nice rump rump".
Start die Start die, turned out to be a vacume leak between the upper and lower, cleaned this up by removing the gaskets between the spacer and replaceing it with RTV. I also had to adjust the Idle Screw to about 1000 RPM initially.
Start die Start die, turned out to be a vacume leak between the upper and lower, cleaned this up by removing the gaskets between the spacer and replaceing it with RTV. I also had to adjust the Idle Screw to about 1000 RPM initially.
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