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help with 94 5.0 carb swap

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Old 11-01-2009, 09:33 PM
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5.0stanger
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Default help with 94 5.0 carb swap

Alright, I have a 94 5.0 that I am trying to get running right for a friend. Someone at one time swaped a carb on it. Anyway, it still have all the efi stuff there (harness, computer, dizzy)

I was wondering what the deal is with timing it. I was checking the timing and it was at ten degrees, then I put the spout back in to check for advance, it jumped up to about sixteen, then I reved it and it didn't move. how do I get it to advance or do I just need to swap a different dizzy on it?


And any insite on the issues I am having....it hesitates real bad off idle and it surges at cruising speeds. I did find two bad vacuum plugs that I replaced tonight, haven't drove it yet, but I hope that fixes the surging. As far as the bog, I adjusted the accelerator pump so it got less fuel when you hit the gas and it seems like it got worse, so I am going to adjust it the other way. Any other ideas would be great. It is an edelbrock 1406. Oh, and I am a noob when it comes to carbs

Thanks
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Old 11-02-2009, 04:19 PM
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Bump! Any input is appreciated!!!
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:32 PM
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redemption
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if your going to put it back to efi you need the efi dizzy for the timing
if you going to stick carb you need the vacuum advance for the carbed hooked up to see the advance timing kick in i believe, if not get a mechancical advance and you can set it your self
my friend set his 347 efi timing by removing the spout connecter setting the base timing then, once he set it lets say 13 or 14 to be safe, he pluged the loop connecter back in, the computer has a set system for its advance i believe dont know anymore because i went to carb =P but you need a binary editor to adjust the rev limiter and advance rate/ total/etc
it should kick in full advance im assuming by 3k rpm. my dizzy is set to 2500 full advance.
for the crappy running, spray carb cleaner around more areas to CONFIRM no vacuum leaks efi takes a harder it to vacuum leaks imo rather then carb. then clean all sensors for accurate readings to the ECU. make sure tps is at .99. and pull codes you might have a couple codes being reped like o2 sensors would throw off idle, it coule be a compination of minor things that you overlook aswell i did when i had my efi, i just got sick of maintance so i went prehistoric back to carb hahaha
somone correct me if im wronge been a while from efi
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:33 PM
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mjr46
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you can't use the efi harness nor distributor set up for carb application, you need either a msd billet dizzy and msd 6a box or 85 dizzy and duraspark ignition, get the correct ignition system on there and I bet it 'll run better

Last edited by mjr46; 11-02-2009 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:38 PM
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bingo! =]
mjr knows his stuff
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:27 PM
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Alright, the car already is carbed, just runs like chit. Some retard kept the EFI dizzy, still hooked to the computer, hell, all the computer stuff is still there. All they did was remove the intake, fuel rails, and unpluged the salt and pepper shakers.....f'n hack job if you ask me. For fuel they just hacked in a regulator so it still has the intank pump. Anyway, efi BS aside, I think there is a carb issue. I check for vacuum leaks, but I didn't see any more (carb cleaner) Drove it tonight, bad bog off idle, but it will open up if I have it in the higher RPM's. I mess with the accelerator pump more, didn't seem to help anything. I have no idea what to do.....Maybe I will just leave it.

Thing that makes me laugh is the dudes car it is, he thinks this thing is so bad ***. It sat for most of the summer for sale, and he said it ran fine last time he had it out. He was trying to tell me he could burn them in all 5 gears...it has at least 500 horse you know....LOL (that is what he said anyway) Hell, my car would walk all over this thing.
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Old 11-02-2009, 07:50 PM
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mjr46
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you are not getting the proper ignition timing during the cycles, btstdt!!! trust me the efi dizzy uses the ecm to control ignition timing after base, as you get to 2500-3000 rpms if you only have a max of 15-16 of course it'll bogg the spark is not being delivered at the proper time hence burn does not take place at proper time, hence you'll have a bunch of unburnt fuel still in the cyl's, don't IGNORE THE OBVIOUS
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:12 PM
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I understand. Question is, how did it run properly before? This car has been built for 5 years, unchanged, and now these problems. Unless it has always run like crap, I don't know.

Thanks for your help anyway. I was just wondering if there was something I was missing as to how to make it work.
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Old 11-02-2009, 09:12 PM
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i DON'T THINK it ever did run properly, expecially by my standard, but who knows, I'm not there to look over the pecker tracks
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Old 11-02-2009, 10:05 PM
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The whole point of a ecm is to control everything in the car or to monitor is and adjust varibles upon change to a dynamic sensor. this includes even the dizzy. if you eliminate one it will not run right, especially a malfunctioning or missing major component.
for it to run propery before the settings must have been WAY beyonde beleifly alter to make it run,

Last edited by redemption; 11-02-2009 at 10:07 PM.
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