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Door Lock Wiring / Actuater Problems

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5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Door Lock Wiring / Actuater Problems

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Old 11-06-2009, 06:30 PM
  #1  
speemike
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Default Door Lock Wiring / Actuater Problems

I have a 93 Mustang LX with a door lock problem. There used to be an alarm system installed in the vehicle but I recently removed it because drivers side lock was not working.
Problem:
I was unable to open drivers side lock using the key because the key would not turn. I also could not open it with the interior door lock button. I assumed it was the actuater so I went out and bought a new one. I then removed the old one and connected the new one to the wires. I tested it and it also does not work, passenger side works fine. I then got a test light and checked both side of the plug, one side lights up when I hit unlock the other side lights up when I hit lock, seems to be working. When I put the new actuater on I can hear a faint click when I hit the buttons coming from inside the actuater. It seems like the wires are working but it is not supplying enough power to make it move.
Questions:
Is there some kind of relay for the actuaters, if so where?
Any suggestions, it's really pissing me off?
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Old 11-06-2009, 06:55 PM
  #2  
93 LX FiveO
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sounds like you need to grease up the rod mechanism. even if the actuator is bad, and the wiring is faulty, the outer door cylinder should still work. if the key wont turn the cylinder itself could be bad but i bet it just needs some lube.
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Old 11-06-2009, 09:07 PM
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speemike
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Default Fix

The key will work fine if either the new or old actuater is disconnected. I will lube up the linkage though. I can not get the actuater to function even if it is not hooked up, it makes a click but does not move. That's what really confuses me!
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Old 11-06-2009, 11:12 PM
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raftdaddy
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if the actuater has a ground in the harness ,make sure you use the same ground as the actuater for your test light.it could allso be a bad connection.test lights work but don't put load on circuit so don't let it through you off and can light up with many diffrent voltages.put a meter in the circuit with the actuater and make sure it is 12 volts. if it's low you got a bad connection.
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Old 11-07-2009, 12:40 PM
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speemike
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Default 11.5 volts

I put the volt meter on and got 11.5 volts for lock and unlock. It is also pulling 4amps. I then connected the actuater straight to the battery and it did not work then either. I am wondering if the new actuater is bad?
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