nacanitihs

actually it does look at the #4 location on the dizzy. the wire goes over the top of the dizzy back to the left side. you dont see it coming out the right side.

just go around the dizzy starting at where #1 should be and double check to make sure each wire goes to the correct cylinder and spot on the cap.

i put them on once and had all the wires in the correct order they were all just off one pin on the dizzy. it ran but ran like *****. i obv didnt drive it.

RedStang92

actually i just checked and i got it idk wat im talkin about lol sorry. i have it exactly as ur pic shown. so the wires cant be the problem.

it feels like its gettin worse and worse, i just drove it back home after leavin my buddys and if i wot it goes the same speed .... no increase in acceleration and if so its like seriously 5 seconds later and its not a fast acceleration ...........

mustangsneverdie

is it running hot? have you checked the oil? Did you have the heads shaved .030 to bring the comp. back up to 9:1?

RedStang92

no its runnin at normal temp, and yes the oil is fine. i changed it right after i did the swap, and im not sure if he did any of that , all i kno is he was checking them out and doin a valve job

nacanitihs

when you set the timing did you set it with the spout connector unplugged? cuz i think that may be your problem. i had my timing set at a shop (a long time ago) that supposedly set it at 10* and it ran like garbage. i would get on it and it wouldnt go anywhere. needless to say i have set my own timing since

get some terry cloth and clean your balancer off. make sure you are setting it at 12* BTDC not ATDC and that the spout connector is unplugged. and that the inductor on the timing light is on the #1 plug wire and if there is a timing advance **** on the light that it is set at 0.

after you tighten it back down recheck the timing. if it is where you set it then plug the spout connector back in

RedStang92

yes i took out the plug and set it at 12 and re checked it after it was tighten and plugged it back in .

aode08

180* out?


Bring #1 TDC, verify this using a thin stick inside the spark plug hole to let you know the #1piston is UP and the mark on balancer at 0(CLOCKWISE). You will HEAR are escaping from compression

Now turn(CONTERCLOCKWISE) and inch or so the crankshaft balancer is at 10* btdc, meaning the ten BEFORE 0,


LINE THE Number One Plug wire to the rotor button.




This puts you at 10* BTDC (stock) or kinda close, as some 5.0's don't even wanna run below this setting.

You can remove the starter + wire and have a assistant turn the key to CRANK while you verify spark is coming from the number one plug wire(Perfect Alignment)





After timing, verify the orange ground wire(maybe look yellow from age, that was on the old heads(back driver side) is still connected to the new ones, this is the ground to the O2 sensors, held to the driver side head by a bolt, if your new heads are painted, the paint may prevent the ground.

2. If you new heads have studs and your old ones pedestial , this requires valve lash adjustment and different rocker arms.

3.Check the MAF its may of gotten damaged, water on it, the same for the coil and plugs /wires etc if you are working outdoors.

Make sure the salt and pepper shakers are secure and tight together and none on the wires have slid out of one of the holes(pins)


5.Do a compression check, the verify the heads may have bigger valves and have been milled, allowing a valve or more to smack a piston.

mjr46

run a koer test and make sure no codes exist

RedStang92

okay so i just figured out the biggest reason as to why my car is running like ****. the tv cable grommet was gone and the cable was just hanging , i got that replaced and what a difference, im actually feeling power.

i just got home tho so once my car is cooled off i gotta take off the upper intake manifold and replace the o rings on the injectors because one of them is leaking fuel so while i do that instead of doing one im gonna do them all.

and last but not least one of the wires has a slice on the cap and im assuming im loosing spark to that cylinder so im gonna replace the wires tomorrow when i get paid , along with an odb1 scanner from auto zone and make sure i got no codes running other then emissions.

sn95_331_GT_ yellow

you dont need an code reader, the car will tell you without one, you have to do a KOER/KOEO test to see what the problem is. dont waste your money.