6mustang6

I just bought a 88 mustang, and i am going to be building a 347 stroker for it. The AOD i have is slipping horribly and thats with the blown head gasket 5.0 in front now. It revs to 3k rpms just to keep the car moving at 20 mph. The PO says it has a 2500 stall, but if you let the car idle, it wants to pull and if u tap the gas, it moves so i know it doesnt have a stall. So, any suggestions? Im going to try a filter change and fluid change first. Now my next question is, is it true the AOD wont shift it Overdrive during WOT? So im gonna have a kickass engine but i wont be able to go over 120mph cause the transmission wont shift into OD? Is there anyway to change this?

nitrous_bob

yes it's true it will not shift into OD, but the 3rd gear is 1:1 just like any other tranny od is .68 and even a t5 you never shift into 5th while running it. the bigger concern is the location of the gears.... an AOD goes 1-D-OD , so 2-3 are in the same spot on the shifter location, the only way to hold first and second gear (without len modifying it) is to the "aod shuffle" start in 1... shift to d when you want second, then pull back to 1... that will hold second until you shift back to d for 3rd. the problem though is that you engage some intermediate clutches doing that , when they should not be engaged. and you smoke your trans. this is the biggest pitfall of the AOD imo

don't bother with the fluid change... the trans is toast, typical aod rebuild for stock is about $2000

i tried the AOD route with my 1990 GT, i smoked 3 trannies and never went quicker than 14.40's and i bought the car new

if you must go AOD..... go lentech http://www.lentechautomatics.com/

they will sell you a good AOD for less than you can build it and also guarantee it

do NOT go less than 3000 on the converter... you'll hate it, i tried a 2200 in mine it was so close to stock you couldn't tell

i also did the wide ratio kit which was pretty decent upgrade it takes 1st from 2.40 to 2.84 and 2nd from 1.47 to 1.55 it also has a wider od band and stronger clutches

if it was me... i would seriously consider a 5 speed

similarly equipped... an aod car will run about a second slower than the same car with a t5 in it

aod cars need 4.10 to run like a stock 3.08 t5 car... and the t5 car will still beat it, more 1st gear, the ability to launch harder (higher rpm) , better shift points etc.

6mustang6

I really dont want to do a 5 speed swap. How much do those typically run and how hard is it?

luckythirteen13

thats not how you tell if it has a stall, thats how all converters are designed to work. i used to have a 4000rpm stall in my car and i began moving the instant you gave it gas. stall is not a set thing, its determined by the hp being applied. light gas and the converter stalls low, if its a loose converter, it still wont stall high in the rpm range unless you hit it with a lot of power and if your motor has a blown hg, you arent hitting it with any power. another example is the converter i have now, its rated at 3000 but on the foot brake when i give it gas, the tires will begin spinning by 2000rpm but on the trans brake i can go past 3000rpm

6mustang6

Wow really? huh. Well i have a impala with a 2500 stall and that sucker would not start moving until 2500 rpms.. so i thought that was the nature of the stall. Maybe this mustang has a loose convertor. Well, Im gonna replace the fluid, filter, and the rear seal, and put a new head gasket in on wednesday, so we will see how she runs afterwards. Thanks man! I learned something today!

luckythirteen13

id be worried about that.

FLcracker9

If it's not a daily driver, and you don't take it on the freeway much, consider a built C4?. lighter, stronger and cheaper than an AOD, you just won't have OD

Bubba 95SN

Where is it that you drive over 120 mph? Bubba

6mustang6

late night highway runs.... are so fun.

Venomantidote95

The converters are all different some are built to flash and will not stall past a stock number like 1800rpm or so, others like mine it is a 3500 and i can pull about 3300 on street radials with out heating the tires.
Flashing means the brom braking to floorboard it hesitaites then (not something you can really tell) then hits like a neutral drop those kind suck azz, i can leave at 1800 or up to 3300rpm depending on what i need at the time!