Car won't start
#1
Car won't start
It has been having extended cranking problems for awhile, like 8-10 seconds, sometimes it would take 3 tries before it would start and when it did start sometimes it would cut right back out unless I pressed the gas to rev the car. The plugs and wires are fairly new (less than 3 months). The fuel pressure is fine, I can hear the fuel pump also.
I started it up the other day to work on something else and it idled a bit high, as usual but then slowly cut out, very unusual. This is the first time it has died, usually once its started it stays on. I haven't been able to get it running again but I don't want to kill my starter by trying harder either, lol.
Tomorrow I'm going to clean the IAC and unplug/clean the MAF. I still need to recheck for spark, the previous owner rewired the ignition up pretty bootleg. The connector to the coil is gone and the wires are pretty much wrapped on (they look like they have a good connection though).
Any other suggestions? All of my mods are in my sig.
Oh yeah, also my flea-bay CAI tilts my MAF sensor to the 11 o'clock position. I've heard rotating it have given people problems. Should I worry about that or look elsewhere?
Edit: I just read about "MAF clocking", I'll try to change it back to the stock location too.
I started it up the other day to work on something else and it idled a bit high, as usual but then slowly cut out, very unusual. This is the first time it has died, usually once its started it stays on. I haven't been able to get it running again but I don't want to kill my starter by trying harder either, lol.
Tomorrow I'm going to clean the IAC and unplug/clean the MAF. I still need to recheck for spark, the previous owner rewired the ignition up pretty bootleg. The connector to the coil is gone and the wires are pretty much wrapped on (they look like they have a good connection though).
Any other suggestions? All of my mods are in my sig.
Oh yeah, also my flea-bay CAI tilts my MAF sensor to the 11 o'clock position. I've heard rotating it have given people problems. Should I worry about that or look elsewhere?
Edit: I just read about "MAF clocking", I'll try to change it back to the stock location too.
Last edited by Genhero; 03-01-2010 at 01:27 AM.
#3
It's the harness part that is cut not the coil. Ill try to get a harness from the junkyard this weekend though to fix that problem. He put a metal connector on the wire, almost like what connects the fuel pump to the bottom of the sending unit lid.
Any other things it may be?
Any other things it may be?
#5
TPS was at .87 volts (or .97 I cant remember which but it was within good range based on a manual) last time I checked and it had the problem at the time. I'll definitely put it on the list to double check though, thanks.
Anything else I should check?
Anything else I should check?
#7
Fuel filter is new, I'm getting steady fuel pressure at the rails. Plugs and wires are only three months old. Cap has no corrosion and rotor has no burns or ash.
I'm going to get a test light tomorrow and test all spark plugs and coil, weather has been pretty bad lately so its hard to find a good day to get out there.
I found a nice no start guide, I'm just going to run through all the steps -- starting with ignition. Its got to be either ignition or, less likely, injectors. I'll post the results.
I'm going to get a test light tomorrow and test all spark plugs and coil, weather has been pretty bad lately so its hard to find a good day to get out there.
I found a nice no start guide, I'm just going to run through all the steps -- starting with ignition. Its got to be either ignition or, less likely, injectors. I'll post the results.
#8
I tested the ignition coil and the test light blinked when the distributor turned. Changed the ignition coil and it works perfect. Thanks everyone for the input.
Last edited by Genhero; 03-02-2010 at 08:26 PM.
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