Distributor gear destroyed
06-07-2010, 07:18 PM
#1
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Distributor gear destroyed
first off, I am running a solid roller Comp Cam. I know with roller cams you are supposed to use a bronze gear. but when I read the cam spec sheet it said it should be used with a "stock" gear. I was confused so i called the customer service department at comp cams. they told me to run a steel gear. luckily my MSD pro billet dizzy came with a steel gear. i slapped it in there and it ran great for very short while. with less then 10 miles on the car the stang died and wouldn't start. trailered it home pulled the dizzy and to my surprise about 10 teeth are ground off the gear. WHAT WENT WRONG? the cam gear looks like it has some wear but all the teeth are on it at least. i think the cam is OK. but what gear should i be running? did the customer support guy know what he was talking about? the main question is, do i have to pull the motor and clean the little fragments of metal shavings out or will the oil filter catch them? im so pissed right now. any help would be appreciated.
06-07-2010, 09:06 PM
#4
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67mustang302
after reading your post i looked up the specs on my distributor turns out it came with an iron gear not steel as i originaly thought. Do i need a steel gear or a bronze gear. also what would you do about the metal flakes in the oil? do i need to pull the engine or will a few oil changes get all of it?
after reading your post i looked up the specs on my distributor turns out it came with an iron gear not steel as i originaly thought. Do i need a steel gear or a bronze gear. also what would you do about the metal flakes in the oil? do i need to pull the engine or will a few oil changes get all of it?
06-07-2010, 09:42 PM
#8
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lulz!! Please don't rinse your engine with water....they're kidding. I say this because there ARE people who would do that.
Steel gear is what you need. I run steel on mine, that's what the factory ran.
As far as the crap, I'd pull the pan and front cover at least. Pan is where most of it will end up, and some could be hanging out in the timing chain so you'll want that out, also gives you a chance to make sure it hasn't damaged the timing gear/chain. You might also want to pull the intake as well and see if any got thrown through the oil return holes into the lifter valley. It would also be a good idea to pull the oil pump while the pan is off and inspect the internals to see if any bits got pulled in. If it's suspect replace the pump, or replace it just to be safe, they're cheap enough.
Steel gear is what you need. I run steel on mine, that's what the factory ran.
As far as the crap, I'd pull the pan and front cover at least. Pan is where most of it will end up, and some could be hanging out in the timing chain so you'll want that out, also gives you a chance to make sure it hasn't damaged the timing gear/chain. You might also want to pull the intake as well and see if any got thrown through the oil return holes into the lifter valley. It would also be a good idea to pull the oil pump while the pan is off and inspect the internals to see if any bits got pulled in. If it's suspect replace the pump, or replace it just to be safe, they're cheap enough.
06-07-2010, 09:49 PM
#9
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 2,166
I had an accel dist lock up on me and sheer 3-4 teeth on it. When I took it apart I found that the upper needle bearing over-heated and failed. When I replaced the dizzy I took the new one apart and slap that bearing full of synthetic grease. Im still waiting to see how long that lasts. 1st dizzy lasted just over a year and maybe 1000-2000 miles on it.