Roller rocker install
06-21-2010, 02:55 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 215
Roller rocker install
I am getting ready to install my Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers. Part # scp1022bl. I have never installed roller rockers and I am just trying to get info from someone who has actually installed them. They are pedestal mount rockers. I did try scorpions website for installation information and could not find it. Any help would be awesome. Thanks
06-21-2010, 07:27 PM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: st clair shores MI
Posts: 6,028
haha... i just went through hell doing mine after a head and intake swap
first off... do NOT use the 3 position method, it does NOT work.
best way is to have a long 1/4" extension with a 1/4" bit TAPED ON THE END SO YOU DONT LOSE IT. with the dizzy out then you use your drill to prime the lifters, do it until oil comes out of the pushrods. do this is you have to redo a rocker, or about every couple minutes. every rocker if you want... but thats not needed
anyways, you can start anywhere..... if you can bump over the starter its easier, but you can manually roll the motor over too. so on a given cylinder..... roll it over slowly, when you feel a valve close, wait til JUST after the opposite valve starts to open.... now your closed all the way. at that point put your rocker on, and find zero lash.... start to tighten the nut by HAND, while rolling the push rod. when you feel it snug up so that you cannot spin the pushrod easily... thats zero lash
now you tighten it to 20 ft/lbs (or 240 in/lbs) you may need a new torque wrench since a lot olnly go down to 30 ft/lbs. dont ballpark it, you'll be redoing it. so actually inch/lbs is better as its more accurate.
anyways, you want to hit 20 lbs with 1/2 to 3/4 turn. if it's less than that you need shorter pushrods.... if it's more than that you need longer rods, OR you can shim them.
fyi... if it's in the 1 to 1 1/4 turns i wanna say you need .040" shims
do that on every cylinder and you'll be golden.
if you "wing" it...and guess on anything or say "thats good enuff" you'll be doing it again
and when you go to stab the dizzy back in, just put your finger over #1 plug hole and turn it over til it goes "phssssst" then just put it on zero on the balancer (provided you didnt go past it... if thats the case you need to 360* to be back on #1 on compression
maybe i gave you too much info... but some of those are common questions
first off... do NOT use the 3 position method, it does NOT work.
best way is to have a long 1/4" extension with a 1/4" bit TAPED ON THE END SO YOU DONT LOSE IT. with the dizzy out then you use your drill to prime the lifters, do it until oil comes out of the pushrods. do this is you have to redo a rocker, or about every couple minutes. every rocker if you want... but thats not needed
anyways, you can start anywhere..... if you can bump over the starter its easier, but you can manually roll the motor over too. so on a given cylinder..... roll it over slowly, when you feel a valve close, wait til JUST after the opposite valve starts to open.... now your closed all the way. at that point put your rocker on, and find zero lash.... start to tighten the nut by HAND, while rolling the push rod. when you feel it snug up so that you cannot spin the pushrod easily... thats zero lash
now you tighten it to 20 ft/lbs (or 240 in/lbs) you may need a new torque wrench since a lot olnly go down to 30 ft/lbs. dont ballpark it, you'll be redoing it. so actually inch/lbs is better as its more accurate.
anyways, you want to hit 20 lbs with 1/2 to 3/4 turn. if it's less than that you need shorter pushrods.... if it's more than that you need longer rods, OR you can shim them.
fyi... if it's in the 1 to 1 1/4 turns i wanna say you need .040" shims
do that on every cylinder and you'll be golden.
if you "wing" it...and guess on anything or say "thats good enuff" you'll be doing it again
and when you go to stab the dizzy back in, just put your finger over #1 plug hole and turn it over til it goes "phssssst" then just put it on zero on the balancer (provided you didnt go past it... if thats the case you need to 360* to be back on #1 on compression
maybe i gave you too much info... but some of those are common questions
06-21-2010, 08:43 PM
#3
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Massachusetts, New Bedford
Posts: 3,035
mainly what he said. *note I did these with 1.6 ratio but the process should be the same*
but the way i did it was start on the drivers side front (cyl 5) and work your way to the back (cyl 8) then move to the passenger side back (cyl 4) and work to the front (cyl 1). it was the easiest way due to how the cam lobes are so you wont be cranking over it all day lol.
i started on the 2nd rocker (intake) then moved to the 1st (exhaust) then 4th then 3rd.. etc
the whole spinning the pushrod thing is for stud i believe. and you want to tighten the intake when the exhaust starts to open and the exhaust when the intake starts to close. bring up the bolt hand tight then you want to have it torque (18-22ftlbs) between 1/4 and 3/4 of a turn so 1/2 is mint. if it torques before 1/4 then you need grind the pedestal (or remove shims) if it torques after 3/4 of a turn you need to shim. keep in mind you dont want them to be loose after torqued properly. and by priming the oil system you keep the lifters full and solid (so they dont squish)
when i did mine they generally took .030" of shims (thicker one and skinny one). seeing as your shims are new you are going to have to re do them after you run the motor for a few min.
i just installed a set of the scorpions on my buddys car 3 days ago. the majority of them took .030 to start then i had to remove .010" of shim off of most of them after it ran a few min. this is because they are packed with grease and after some run time the grease oozes out. (or the lifters werent properly filled)
also keep in mind if you are running the stock valve covers you will have to grind them a little bit. if you look in the valve cover you will see vertical cylindrical supports on the walls. the ones i had to grind down were: (this is from looking at the engine from the fender)
drivers side valve cover--- top left (shorter side) you need to grind that one about an inch or so.
passenger side--- the top left (similar to above) and the next one to the right.
all of which were on the shorter side of the valve cover. you should kno what i mean when you look at it. (ill see if i can find a pic)
but the way i did it was start on the drivers side front (cyl 5) and work your way to the back (cyl 8) then move to the passenger side back (cyl 4) and work to the front (cyl 1). it was the easiest way due to how the cam lobes are so you wont be cranking over it all day lol.
i started on the 2nd rocker (intake) then moved to the 1st (exhaust) then 4th then 3rd.. etc
the whole spinning the pushrod thing is for stud i believe. and you want to tighten the intake when the exhaust starts to open and the exhaust when the intake starts to close. bring up the bolt hand tight then you want to have it torque (18-22ftlbs) between 1/4 and 3/4 of a turn so 1/2 is mint. if it torques before 1/4 then you need grind the pedestal (or remove shims) if it torques after 3/4 of a turn you need to shim. keep in mind you dont want them to be loose after torqued properly. and by priming the oil system you keep the lifters full and solid (so they dont squish)
when i did mine they generally took .030" of shims (thicker one and skinny one). seeing as your shims are new you are going to have to re do them after you run the motor for a few min.
i just installed a set of the scorpions on my buddys car 3 days ago. the majority of them took .030 to start then i had to remove .010" of shim off of most of them after it ran a few min. this is because they are packed with grease and after some run time the grease oozes out. (or the lifters werent properly filled)
also keep in mind if you are running the stock valve covers you will have to grind them a little bit. if you look in the valve cover you will see vertical cylindrical supports on the walls. the ones i had to grind down were: (this is from looking at the engine from the fender)
drivers side valve cover--- top left (shorter side) you need to grind that one about an inch or so.
passenger side--- the top left (similar to above) and the next one to the right.
all of which were on the shorter side of the valve cover. you should kno what i mean when you look at it. (ill see if i can find a pic)
Last edited by nacanitihs; 06-21-2010 at 08:53 PM.
06-22-2010, 11:05 AM
#7
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Massachusetts, New Bedford
Posts: 3,035
you dont shim stud mount rockers
Last edited by nacanitihs; 06-22-2010 at 11:08 AM.
06-22-2010, 05:02 PM
#9
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Massachusetts, New Bedford
Posts: 3,035
these were the ones i had to grind down (not entirely) they just rubbed the sides of the rocker arms. keep in mind that i used 1.6 scorpions and urs ate 1.72s so you may need to grind just a little more off than i did. but i just shaved them about 3/4 of the way up and prob took off about half of the material just to be safe. when you start the car you can tell if they are touching by placing ur hand on the valve cover and feel for a light tap. ull kno it if you feel it. also keep in mind that roller rockers are slightly noisier than the stock rocker arms.
