Blown408

Guys please help me out!! I am getting no power to my injectors and I am completely puzzled to how to test all of this!! I Love EFI and I want to keep it but I am at the point to where I am going to start Tearing it all off in favor of a carb! Can someone help me please?

TrimDrip

I am no Ford tech but, it looks like pip module in the distributor or the computer could be the issue. I would check the pip module first.

In the future, please refrain from making multiple threads because they will just get locked. Let the mods make fun of you for being a noob and move it for you.

lennys94

check your injector wiring.Do voltage test on it to help figure out where your loosing your power to your injectors.

TrimDrip

yeah, it could be those white and black connectors on the back of the intake. Contact grease does wonders and also the pins can be played with a bit to get a better connection. If you have never had them off, be prepared to break a clip.

Blown408

Ok, after doing more testing today this is what I have!! I do have power going to my injectors!! I unhooked a few of them and they are showing 12 volts with the ignition on! I have great spark when I pull the plugs and ground one out!! I have good fuel pressure!! I have checked for power going in and out of the computer on certain terminals that I read off of a google search on other sites!! I dont know what the deal is here. I borrowed a module tester off of a friend and the module on the distributor tests good! Something is not letting the injectors fire!! Could it be the PIP if I am still getting spark? My dad seems to think that if I have spark that it couldnt be the PIP, I have a friend that says it could be even though I have good spark!! Can anyone help me out here? If it could be the PIP how do I check this? I read on one other site to see if I have voltage on the first wire on the pin harness(Green Wire), if I had voltage than the PIP is good, if not then it was bad. I tested it while cranking and I have voltage under 5 volts and it kind of skips voltage!! Should it read one constant voltage or is it bad ifr it doesnt have a constant voltage reading? Any one that could help me I would really appreciate it and I am new to this site obviously so if I am doing anything wrong here please let me know!!

TrimDrip

Did you check for pulse of the injectors while starting the car. The noid light should flash.

Have you ran codes on the car?

Blown408

Yeah I checked with a noid light. I can not get it to blink at all when I turn the car over. But I am getting 12 Volts to the injectors when I check them with a volts tester. Back to my previous question. Could it be my PIP in the distributor if I am still getting spark? I bought a new computer and plugged it in thinking that the old one took a crap and nothing!! Still getting the same no start condition!!

TrimDrip

try this test and let us know how it comes out. It should be pulsing between 3 and 6 volts, not 12.

http://351winsor.com/joel/Ignition_Systems/tfi2.html

Blown408

ok, sorry guys i was on vacation. heres what I have! I have power to the injectors. They wont flash with the noid light that I have though. They do read 12 volts with the ignition on. There is something very whacky going on because I have also checked for voltage readings at the TPS sensor and I am getting 11.08 to 12 volts on all three wires with the ignition on. I dont know what is going on here. I have checked all the wiring in the whole car, and I cant find any bad grounds or breaks in any of the wiring. Like I said before I put a new computer in and it is still doing the same thing. I dont know what to do!! What do you guys think I should check next? I also replaced the PIP in the distributor and still no start!! I cant put a code reader on it because that harness was cut out. the hole car was professionaly built by Lidio from Alternative Auto in Michigan. They rewired the whole car and thought that the car would never need to have a code reader put on it. I am just really stumped here. Funny thing though, the other day I had a friend in the car cranking the ignition while I loosened the Dizzy and while I rotated it to the right it did fire right up for about 5 seconds. That is the only luck I have had with it. I cant get anything out of it now. We tried that over and over again and nothing!! If anyone has any more thoughts it would be greatly appreciated. I did have the Module checked also and it checked good at autozone.

50SON

With TPS voltages you describe the computer will not let the injectors fire. When the TPS indicates excessive voltage the computer will shut the injectors down to keep the engine from flooding. As the throttle plate opens the TPS acts as a potentiometer and the voltage increases from the base setting of .98 to its maximum, about 4.5 volts. If the voltage reads higher than .98 on start-up the computer thinks that the throttle plate is open and will dump the amount of fuel called for. If you exceed the 4.5 volts it just shuts the injectors down. You have three wires, 1=12 volts, 2=ground, 3=controlled voltage that is ideally .98 volts when throttle plate is shut. Sounds like your TPS sensor may be shot. Remember that the injectors are hot when the key is turned on, but the computer, using various sensor inputs decides when they fire and how long the duration will be.