95 GT Starts then dies
07-19-2010, 09:28 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: FL
Posts: 8
95 GT Starts then dies
95 Mustang GT 5.0
No Cats, flowmasters, air pump bypass, basically stock 200,000 miles
2 months ago MSD coil went out. replaced with stock. it still ran like a 3 legged dog. checked timing, it is correct. runs like it cross firing. but i checked under the hood in the dark and only thing I see is possibly a slight arc from the coil part out to it's metal frame. I also got a shock when I grabbed the distributor to try and tweak the timing. Been busy building cabinets for the wife haven't had time to pull into the shop and work on it. today on the way home from work I got to a light and it started to die, so i gave it a little gas and it picked up and then died right back out with no power. i could get it to start and it would not take any gas then die out. got it towed home, anyway to late to work on it now. maybe tomorrow after work.
going to check the ignition system again and the IAC, any other suggestions steps would be helpful.
thanks
taz
No Cats, flowmasters, air pump bypass, basically stock 200,000 miles
2 months ago MSD coil went out. replaced with stock. it still ran like a 3 legged dog. checked timing, it is correct. runs like it cross firing. but i checked under the hood in the dark and only thing I see is possibly a slight arc from the coil part out to it's metal frame. I also got a shock when I grabbed the distributor to try and tweak the timing. Been busy building cabinets for the wife haven't had time to pull into the shop and work on it. today on the way home from work I got to a light and it started to die, so i gave it a little gas and it picked up and then died right back out with no power. i could get it to start and it would not take any gas then die out. got it towed home, anyway to late to work on it now. maybe tomorrow after work.
going to check the ignition system again and the IAC, any other suggestions steps would be helpful.
thanks
taz
07-19-2010, 09:49 PM
#2
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 76
first, with key off, make absolutely sure you're coil is installed correctly and if neccessary, cover up with silicone or elec tape anything that could be grounding out there. if you can get it to idle, get yourself a cheap spark tester and test, first, the coil wire, then each spark plug wire. thats your next step. next check around for bad grounds. steps i'd take anyway
07-20-2010, 08:52 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: FL
Posts: 8
well not much time to tinker today, flat on the jeep then the A/C at the house was dead.
isolated the coil and adjusted the timing back to my "safe" factory mark, no glory.
run less than 5 secs working the throttle never getting more than 2k rpm and stalls. charging the battery now.
isolated the coil and adjusted the timing back to my "safe" factory mark, no glory.
run less than 5 secs working the throttle never getting more than 2k rpm and stalls. charging the battery now.
07-21-2010, 08:23 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: FL
Posts: 8
cleaned MAF, checked TPS voltage, new plugs and fuel filter
will run 15-20 seconds now if I keep playing with the pedal. won't run on it's own so I can't check under the hood while it's running.
won't go over about 3 grand, can hear some spark knock when it does catch.
smells very rich
will run 15-20 seconds now if I keep playing with the pedal. won't run on it's own so I can't check under the hood while it's running.
won't go over about 3 grand, can hear some spark knock when it does catch.
smells very rich
07-27-2010, 09:16 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: FL
Posts: 8
ok, so had a chance to tinker some this weekend.
found out the water pump was leaking, so i decided to change that while i was under the hood. well one of the bolts that goes through the timing cover into the block broke off at the block. was obvious they didn't use anti sieze when it was changed. so spent most of the day drilling that out.
anyway got the guy at the parts store to let me try a couple parts.
I put in a new ignition control module and that has it running again, but like a 3 legged dog. i can get it to rev if I go slow on the throttle, dies if I step on it.
still rough idle and spark knock. I put in a TPS and IAC and they made no change. I did find that my coolant sensor was an open (no resistance) so I replaced that.
don't know if i should try a new MAF (i cleaned the old one no change) or maybe the dizzy is going? gotta test my fuel pressure too
found out the water pump was leaking, so i decided to change that while i was under the hood. well one of the bolts that goes through the timing cover into the block broke off at the block. was obvious they didn't use anti sieze when it was changed. so spent most of the day drilling that out.
anyway got the guy at the parts store to let me try a couple parts.
I put in a new ignition control module and that has it running again, but like a 3 legged dog. i can get it to rev if I go slow on the throttle, dies if I step on it.
still rough idle and spark knock. I put in a TPS and IAC and they made no change. I did find that my coolant sensor was an open (no resistance) so I replaced that.
don't know if i should try a new MAF (i cleaned the old one no change) or maybe the dizzy is going? gotta test my fuel pressure too
07-27-2010, 12:53 PM
#7
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NC
Posts: 590
have you replaced the replacement coil? this sounds like when my coil went out on my 88. It was loose on the stalk and water got into it, also one time the coil wires came loose inside the plastic. Its sounds like a coil to me, I would get a cheap parts store msd/accel coil and give it a try
thought about something else after I posted this, have you changed your cap and rotor anytime recently? I helped a friend trouble shoot his dodge and it turned out the cap had a split in it and it tweaked his timing enough to keep it from running (fackin dodge) when we replaced the cap and rotor it ran great, then the cap and rotor magically melted 3 hours from home, fun tow bill there.
thought about something else after I posted this, have you changed your cap and rotor anytime recently? I helped a friend trouble shoot his dodge and it turned out the cap had a split in it and it tweaked his timing enough to keep it from running (fackin dodge) when we replaced the cap and rotor it ran great, then the cap and rotor magically melted 3 hours from home, fun tow bill there.
Last edited by enix187; 07-27-2010 at 12:55 PM.
07-27-2010, 03:06 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: FL
Posts: 8
yeah, replaced the replacement coil first.
new cap and rotor back in May.
looks like the computer is throwing a 122 code.
this is what I can get (B is Blink)
B 2s BB 2s BB 4s B 2s BB 2s BB 8s? B 6s? B 2s B 2s B 4s B 2s B 2s B
i had checked earlier and it was like .97
new cap and rotor back in May.
looks like the computer is throwing a 122 code.
this is what I can get (B is Blink)
B 2s BB 2s BB 4s B 2s BB 2s BB 8s? B 6s? B 2s B 2s B 4s B 2s B 2s B
i had checked earlier and it was like .97
07-28-2010, 08:38 PM
#9
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location:
Posts: 295
Hey taz,
I was having a slightly similar issue (shut off, wouldnt start or would start but not stay running) thread is here if you want to check it out: https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...t-restart.html
Basically I ended up replacing the coil, TFI Module under the intake, and the distributor(b/c of the PIP)
Regarding the PIP in the dizzy, I found that the PIP is supposed to tell the fuel pump to keep running as the dizzy turns (I am not sure if its the only function, but it is one of them atleast) As a test, if you manually rotate the dizzy while still plugged in, it should keep the fuel pump going. My old one did not, the new one did.
Good luck and be sure to post back!
Deep
I was having a slightly similar issue (shut off, wouldnt start or would start but not stay running) thread is here if you want to check it out: https://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l...t-restart.html
Basically I ended up replacing the coil, TFI Module under the intake, and the distributor(b/c of the PIP)
Regarding the PIP in the dizzy, I found that the PIP is supposed to tell the fuel pump to keep running as the dizzy turns (I am not sure if its the only function, but it is one of them atleast) As a test, if you manually rotate the dizzy while still plugged in, it should keep the fuel pump going. My old one did not, the new one did.
Good luck and be sure to post back!
Deep
07-28-2010, 11:59 PM
#10
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: NC
Posts: 590
sounds like you're drowning in gas, and sense I'm sure you're getting air (no squirrels in you intake?) then you're missing spark, its something in the distributor, sounds like it burned up with the different coil (or the old coil)