Few questions
 

1994 GT 5.0 HO

I dont know if I was supposed to do it in a certain order, or not? And Im not sure if this is the right way the cylinders go for you to understand which is which cylinder, but Ill try. If Im reading it right according to Haynes

Cylinder#1 is passenger side farthest away from firewall then 2, 3, 4. 4 being passenger side at the fire wall
Then cylinder#5 is drivers side farthest from firewall then 6, 7, 8. 8 being at firewall

CORRECT?

I did these with cold engine, WOT AND NO CERTAIN ORDER, if it matters?? I did not add any oil. I will try again tomorrow in the day light maybe not raining in a certain order wet and dry

I also was doing this alone so I couldnt see the valve on each turn over until I was done. I read your supposed to see how each stroke compressions strength is building. If it starts weak and builds up

(LOW COMPRESSION ON 1ST STROKE, FOLLOWED BY GRADUALLY INCREASING PRESSURE ON SUCCESSIVE STROKES INDICATES WORN PISTONS RINGS. A LOW COMPRESSION ON FIRST STROKE WHICH DOES NOT BUILD UP DURING SUCCESSIVE STROKES INDICATES LEAKING VALVES, OR A BLOWN HEAD GASKET, OR A CRACKED HEAD)



#1 was 130 psi
#2 was 130 psi
#3 was 125 psi
#4 was 130 psi
#5 was still at 65
#6 was 125
#7 was 125
#8 was 110,

Put oil in #5 it was still the same



Im gonna take intake manifold off tomorrow and see what it looks like. I have a howling sound coming from some where cant tell if its water pump belt or a vacuum leak/gasket

Ive got back pressure and smoke coming out of PCV oil fill neck and dipstick tube. Car wont idle unless I hold the gas. I have changed IAC, tried to change TPS, but the 2 screws are stripped. Got a reverse bit and it broke off in screw. I have messed with the throttle screw?(alen wrench screw on TPS) b/c the other day when I put like a stick or something under the screw thats connected to throttle cable it would idle for a few mins then shut off. I have screwed that screw all the way in and all the way out seeing what the difference was and it seemed to idle at all positions for a min then shut off, so I dunno


I am prob going to buy a crate motor around tax time instead of rebuilding this. My budget will prob be about 3500-4k. Ford has a 306 crate (x302) but I have found that I can use a 351w in its place for about the same price and same room. But I hear you cant build too much on to a crate engine like turbos, nos etc???

W/E I get I need as easy of a swap I can get with that budget. Fords crate is like 3400 supposed to have 340 HP,. only have to change water pump and timing chain. I know most of you will say to get a short block and a top end rebuild kit, but I dont have the time , or know how and think it would be cheaper, easier to do a crate. what are yalls thoughts about crates? And think I should do with my situation? I want to add more power than I have, pretty dress up lol and will be using as a DD. The prob with the 351w crates is that all I have found are carbd. Is it possible to get a long block 351w and be able to use what I have EFI and add TB and intake mani etc?Sorry so much

Thanks in advance!

Also I am very green

Im tryin to understand what I can fit in my body, what will hook up the easiest without having to replace too much. How much of a prob would carb be. And how much of a prob it would be going from EFI to carb or vice verse etc. And also what about the computers? Tuning price etc

leakdown test will confirm where the issue is but sounds like it may be in the head/ valves

The first thing you need to do is figure out what you want to do with the car....street daily driver, road course, drag strip, ect.....

You are correct on cylinder numbers.