hot 3g alt
08-25-2010, 05:50 PM
#11
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: nc
Posts: 5
08-25-2010, 07:08 PM
#12
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: nc
Posts: 5
All have a regulator built in.. There's 3 different types used on 3rg gen alternators.
1. A normal regulator that uses 3 circuits (ASI) plus the 4 gauge charge/battery wire. This is the correct way to hook up a 3G and the regulator you have n your alternator.
2. A self exciting type regulator. What you know as a "one wire hook-up". This regulator is self excited by speed. When it reaches the set RPM, it turns on automatically. This type of regulator gets the voltage sample directly from the alternator, so it's not getting an accurate voltage drop reading for the regulator to correct. There's a few other disadvantages to self exciting regulators that keep car makers from using them from the factory. Read HERE for more details.
3. The last of regulator is a dummy regulator, for use to replace 1st generation ford alternators that have factory external regulators. < This type of regulator in no way applies to your app.
What do you mean by "switch the green"?
The yellow wire running directly to the alternator's charge post is a way to make the install simplier, and universal, because it will work on all generation of ford alternators.
Doing that (yellow to alt's charge post) will work, but is NOT the correct way of doing it. That yellow wire is the "voltage sample" circuit. It's purpose is to get a voltage sample AWAY from the alternator, the regulator then reads it and makes corrections to the voltage. If you get the voltage sample directly from the alternator, you're not getting an accurate tell of the drop. The results is an alternator that puts out slightly less volts.
Is this helping with your confusion at all?
1. A normal regulator that uses 3 circuits (ASI) plus the 4 gauge charge/battery wire. This is the correct way to hook up a 3G and the regulator you have n your alternator.
2. A self exciting type regulator. What you know as a "one wire hook-up". This regulator is self excited by speed. When it reaches the set RPM, it turns on automatically. This type of regulator gets the voltage sample directly from the alternator, so it's not getting an accurate voltage drop reading for the regulator to correct. There's a few other disadvantages to self exciting regulators that keep car makers from using them from the factory. Read HERE for more details.
3. The last of regulator is a dummy regulator, for use to replace 1st generation ford alternators that have factory external regulators. < This type of regulator in no way applies to your app.
The yellow wire running directly to the alternator's charge post is a way to make the install simplier, and universal, because it will work on all generation of ford alternators.
Doing that (yellow to alt's charge post) will work, but is NOT the correct way of doing it. That yellow wire is the "voltage sample" circuit. It's purpose is to get a voltage sample AWAY from the alternator, the regulator then reads it and makes corrections to the voltage. If you get the voltage sample directly from the alternator, you're not getting an accurate tell of the drop. The results is an alternator that puts out slightly less volts.
Is this helping with your confusion at all?
08-30-2010, 07:42 AM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: canada
Posts: 283
i wired it to the instructions givin and it seems to work fine now.the alternator is still hot to were you can't touch it after a couple mins of running with no load on it.(car running,no lights ,warmer or radio) but tests ok when you put a meter to it (14.2). and my volt guage will drop as you put loads on,drops a couple of volts whenever you add a load inside (lights,blower). the lights don't dim but i did blow the tstats on my bottle warmer.. so i'm gonna leave it and see. and romeo for the record,you did a great job with everything including the product.i think i may have a problem elsewere that could be loading it.
