suprakilla1425

So I've had this 87 GT for a little over a year now, and it's always had a problem with acceleration, and cold starts. I've fixed the cold start problem however it falls on its face all the time when I accelerate untill maybe 3000RPM then it figures itself out and actually pulls pretty hard. Everyone told me it was all timing, but untill recently I thought it couldn't be timing because no matter where I set the base timing it did the same thing, unless it was set around 16 degrees, yet it still bucked just not as much but of course anywhere near 3k it pinged like crazy. However last evening I set the base at 10 degress (SPOUT out), shut the car off put the spout back in fired it up and checked it again. When I hit the timing light it was showing in the neighborhood of 20-25 degrees at idle. What would cause it to jump 15 or so degrees at idle. I was thinking maybe the computer is shot, or a spring in the distributor may have broken. Do any of these assumptions make sense?

Thanks yet again for any input to this aggravating problem.

AntiRiceRacing

Putting the spout in makes the timing jump, have you tried replacing the spark plugs yet? How is your cap and rotor?

AdderMk2

removing the SPOUT connector will lock the timing to what you set it at. What basically happens is the computer is not allowed to advance the timing at all when it is removed. Once you put it back in, the computer will add the pre-set amount of timing and the light will show a higher reading than what you set.

Thats why we call it BASE timing. base means before the computer adds.
Total timing, is after the computer adds.. which is what you see when you reconnect the spout

suprakilla1425

Literally every little electronic sensor is within a year old, plugs wires cap rotor ECT ACT TPS IAC, except the EGR. O2 sensors as well, even replaced a bunch of vacuum lines that were half assed repaired. I've run out of ideas.

suprakilla1425

I understand what the spout does and how to set the timing, however I did not know that it automaticly just added timing without any throttle or load on the engine. It seems like it's either just blowing fuel out of the exhaust or it's just not burning it, which doesn't make sense since it doesn't blow smoke at any givin time. Something tells me the computer is shot, like the timing table is jacked. Oh I forgot to mention it runs fairly well when it's not at operating temp if that helps.

AdderMk2

i love how people are always so willing to blame the computer.

From every post of yours I have read, it really seems like you have NO diagnostic capabilities or skills, at all

suprakilla1425

Well since the compression test was good, fuel pressure is around 36-38psi, no fluctuation when I tested for vacuum, tps was in range no engine light is on. I don't know what I'm missing, I'm young and learning as I go I feel confident under the hood but of course I don't know everything which is why I'm asking for help. The only two reasons I blamed the computer is because I did not know that the computer was supposed to add timing at idle like it does, and that the car suddenly has power after 3k RPM, which from what i've read that's when the timing maxxes out, that's just what I read confermation on that fact would be great. If I said something to offend you I appologise, but I really do need help.

Bubba 95SN

Stimulate the economy, buy a computer, then buy whatever else the 8 ball tells you. NAPA sells diagnostic dice ..buy a set and roll them. Codes, what are they?

suprakilla1425

I've had the car checked for codes even though no engine light has flashed and well nothing. The reason I had it checked was because my Bronco had a issue and a code popped up even though the engine light never lit up either(broken light). I planned on getting a computer anyway for when I convert it to mass air, but I wanted to correct the problem before I did that. I just don't understand why after 3k RPM it suddenly pulls hard.