how hard is it to put in a new clutch??
08-16-2005, 01:55 AM
#2
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 5,182
RE: how hard is it to put in a new clutch??
a few hours, clutch alignment tool but comes with the clutch
you should resurface the flywheel, upgrade teh tranny mount and also the quadrant
tranny will need to come out, h pipe will need to coem off, cross member needs to come off, ds needs to come out, bell housing needs to come off, also i would replace the rear main seal if its bad
you should resurface the flywheel, upgrade teh tranny mount and also the quadrant
tranny will need to come out, h pipe will need to coem off, cross member needs to come off, ds needs to come out, bell housing needs to come off, also i would replace the rear main seal if its bad
08-16-2005, 02:38 AM
#3
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Indy
Posts: 90
RE: how hard is it to put in a new clutch??
Not really a big deal unless it's your first time.
1.) Get the whole car up on jackstands,remove the interior console pieces inside the car that will allow you to remove the shifter from inside the car, then remove the u-joint bolts at the rear end and remove the driveshaft from the output shaft of the tranny. You might get some fluid leakage there, so be aware, have rags handy.
2.) Put a jack under the tranny to support it and remove the tranny mount bolts and the cross-member bolts, remove the cross-member.
3.) Remove the speedometer cable or speed sensor plug from the left side of the tranny.
4.) Remove the 4 bolts that bolt the tranny to the bellhousing, and separate the tranny from the bellhousing, you might have to pry on it some, then pull the tranny from the bellhousing/clutch assembly. Careful, it's a bit heavy.
5.) Remove the starter.
6.) Remove the bellhousing bolts from the back of the engine block, detach the clutch cable from the clutch fork arm, the throwout bearing and clutch fork arm should've fallen loose when you pulled the tranny from the bellhousing. Remove the bellhousing.
7.) Remove the clutch pressure plate bolts from the flywheel and remove the pressure plate and friction disc.
8.) Inspect the surface of the flywheel for scoring or glazing (shiny burnt look), more than likely, you'll want to have the flywheel resurfaced for a new clutch set-up, but minor glazing can be fixed by scuffing the surface all the way around with emery cloth or sandpaper, but that doesn't guarantee that the surface is flat or un-warped. If unsure, use a straight edge from end to end at different points to verify that the flywheel isn't warped. And if that's too risky for you, remove the flywheel from the back of the engine to have it resurfaced.
9.) Remove the pilot bushing from the end of the inside of the crankshaft, replace it. Pry it out, or pack some grease into the end of the crankshaft, then use the clutch disc alignment tool to force it out by inserting it into the pilot bushing center, then rap the end of the alignment tool with a hammer until the bushing pops out. Carefully do this, any excessive pounding on the end of the crankshaft is not good, but the alignment tool that comes with a new clutch set-up is plastic and shouldn't exert too much force on the crank.
10.) Installation is the opposite of removal. Use new flywheel bolts with a bit of blue loctite on them when reinstalling the flywheel. Torque the flywheel to specs. You'll need a torque wrench and some sort of manual to get the specs for all of your bolt torques.
11.) Reinstall a new pilot bushing.
12.) Using the clutch disc alignment tool, hold the clutch disc against the new pressure plate, and slide the alignment tool through the backside (outer) of the pressure plate, and through the center of the clutch disc while inserting the alignment tool into the end of the crankshaft. Hold the disc and pressure plate in this position while you start threading the pressure plate bolts into the flywheel. Make sure the disc is centered with the alignment tool before you torque down the pressure plate bolts.
13.) Grease and slide on a new throwout bearing onto the clutch fork arm and position it into the bellhousing. Install the bellhousing and tighten the bolts. reinsert the clutch cable to the clutch fork arm.
14.) Reinstall the tranny making sure the splines of the input shaft are fully inserted through the clutch disc and into the pilot bushing on the end of the crankshaft. Tighten the 4 tranny bolts.
15.) Reinstall the tranny mount and cross-member, tighten the bolts.
16.) Reinstall the speedometer cable or speed sensor plug.
17.) Install the driveshaft and tighten the u-joint bolts at the rear-end. This is also a good time to check the u-joints or replace them while the driveshaft is removed.
18.) Reinstall the starter.
19.) Reinstall the shifter and interior pieces that were removed.
20.) Remove the car from the jackstands and test drive your new clutch.
Not real hard, but it can be. Get a helper.
Ooooops, I missed removing the h-pipe, that can be a pain in the a$$ if it's rusted on there good.
And yes, you might want to replace the crankshaft rear main seal while you have the flywheel off, that's easy insurance.
This might give you an idea of what's involved and whether or not you have the tools, time, and effort to get it done. Paying someone else is always easier.
1.) Get the whole car up on jackstands,remove the interior console pieces inside the car that will allow you to remove the shifter from inside the car, then remove the u-joint bolts at the rear end and remove the driveshaft from the output shaft of the tranny. You might get some fluid leakage there, so be aware, have rags handy.
2.) Put a jack under the tranny to support it and remove the tranny mount bolts and the cross-member bolts, remove the cross-member.
3.) Remove the speedometer cable or speed sensor plug from the left side of the tranny.
4.) Remove the 4 bolts that bolt the tranny to the bellhousing, and separate the tranny from the bellhousing, you might have to pry on it some, then pull the tranny from the bellhousing/clutch assembly. Careful, it's a bit heavy.
5.) Remove the starter.
6.) Remove the bellhousing bolts from the back of the engine block, detach the clutch cable from the clutch fork arm, the throwout bearing and clutch fork arm should've fallen loose when you pulled the tranny from the bellhousing. Remove the bellhousing.
7.) Remove the clutch pressure plate bolts from the flywheel and remove the pressure plate and friction disc.
8.) Inspect the surface of the flywheel for scoring or glazing (shiny burnt look), more than likely, you'll want to have the flywheel resurfaced for a new clutch set-up, but minor glazing can be fixed by scuffing the surface all the way around with emery cloth or sandpaper, but that doesn't guarantee that the surface is flat or un-warped. If unsure, use a straight edge from end to end at different points to verify that the flywheel isn't warped. And if that's too risky for you, remove the flywheel from the back of the engine to have it resurfaced.
9.) Remove the pilot bushing from the end of the inside of the crankshaft, replace it. Pry it out, or pack some grease into the end of the crankshaft, then use the clutch disc alignment tool to force it out by inserting it into the pilot bushing center, then rap the end of the alignment tool with a hammer until the bushing pops out. Carefully do this, any excessive pounding on the end of the crankshaft is not good, but the alignment tool that comes with a new clutch set-up is plastic and shouldn't exert too much force on the crank.
10.) Installation is the opposite of removal. Use new flywheel bolts with a bit of blue loctite on them when reinstalling the flywheel. Torque the flywheel to specs. You'll need a torque wrench and some sort of manual to get the specs for all of your bolt torques.
11.) Reinstall a new pilot bushing.
12.) Using the clutch disc alignment tool, hold the clutch disc against the new pressure plate, and slide the alignment tool through the backside (outer) of the pressure plate, and through the center of the clutch disc while inserting the alignment tool into the end of the crankshaft. Hold the disc and pressure plate in this position while you start threading the pressure plate bolts into the flywheel. Make sure the disc is centered with the alignment tool before you torque down the pressure plate bolts.
13.) Grease and slide on a new throwout bearing onto the clutch fork arm and position it into the bellhousing. Install the bellhousing and tighten the bolts. reinsert the clutch cable to the clutch fork arm.
14.) Reinstall the tranny making sure the splines of the input shaft are fully inserted through the clutch disc and into the pilot bushing on the end of the crankshaft. Tighten the 4 tranny bolts.
15.) Reinstall the tranny mount and cross-member, tighten the bolts.
16.) Reinstall the speedometer cable or speed sensor plug.
17.) Install the driveshaft and tighten the u-joint bolts at the rear-end. This is also a good time to check the u-joints or replace them while the driveshaft is removed.
18.) Reinstall the starter.
19.) Reinstall the shifter and interior pieces that were removed.
20.) Remove the car from the jackstands and test drive your new clutch.
Not real hard, but it can be. Get a helper.
Ooooops, I missed removing the h-pipe, that can be a pain in the a$$ if it's rusted on there good.
And yes, you might want to replace the crankshaft rear main seal while you have the flywheel off, that's easy insurance.
This might give you an idea of what's involved and whether or not you have the tools, time, and effort to get it done. Paying someone else is always easier.
08-16-2005, 11:20 AM
#5
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location:
Posts: 11
RE: how hard is it to put in a new clutch??
ORIGINAL: 83GT306
Not really a big deal unless it's your first time.
1.) Get the whole car up on jackstands,remove the interior console pieces inside the car that will allow you to remove the shifter from inside the car, then remove the u-joint bolts at the rear end and remove the driveshaft from the output shaft of the tranny. You might get some fluid leakage there, so be aware, have rags handy.
2.) Put a jack under the tranny to support it and remove the tranny mount bolts and the cross-member bolts, remove the cross-member.
3.) Remove the speedometer cable or speed sensor plug from the left side of the tranny.
4.) Remove the 4 bolts that bolt the tranny to the bellhousing, and separate the tranny from the bellhousing, you might have to pry on it some, then pull the tranny from the bellhousing/clutch assembly. Careful, it's a bit heavy.
5.) Remove the starter.
6.) Remove the bellhousing bolts from the back of the engine block, detach the clutch cable from the clutch fork arm, the throwout bearing and clutch fork arm should've fallen loose when you pulled the tranny from the bellhousing. Remove the bellhousing.
7.) Remove the clutch pressure plate bolts from the flywheel and remove the pressure plate and friction disc.
8.) Inspect the surface of the flywheel for scoring or glazing (shiny burnt look), more than likely, you'll want to have the flywheel resurfaced for a new clutch set-up, but minor glazing can be fixed by scuffing the surface all the way around with emery cloth or sandpaper, but that doesn't guarantee that the surface is flat or un-warped. If unsure, use a straight edge from end to end at different points to verify that the flywheel isn't warped. And if that's too risky for you, remove the flywheel from the back of the engine to have it resurfaced.
9.) Remove the pilot bushing from the end of the inside of the crankshaft, replace it. Pry it out, or pack some grease into the end of the crankshaft, then use the clutch disc alignment tool to force it out by inserting it into the pilot bushing center, then rap the end of the alignment tool with a hammer until the bushing pops out. Carefully do this, any excessive pounding on the end of the crankshaft is not good, but the alignment tool that comes with a new clutch set-up is plastic and shouldn't exert too much force on the crank.
10.) Installation is the opposite of removal. Use new flywheel bolts with a bit of blue loctite on them when reinstalling the flywheel. Torque the flywheel to specs. You'll need a torque wrench and some sort of manual to get the specs for all of your bolt torques.
11.) Reinstall a new pilot bushing.
12.) Using the clutch disc alignment tool, hold the clutch disc against the new pressure plate, and slide the alignment tool through the backside (outer) of the pressure plate, and through the center of the clutch disc while inserting the alignment tool into the end of the crankshaft. Hold the disc and pressure plate in this position while you start threading the pressure plate bolts into the flywheel. Make sure the disc is centered with the alignment tool before you torque down the pressure plate bolts.
13.) Grease and slide on a new throwout bearing onto the clutch fork arm and position it into the bellhousing. Install the bellhousing and tighten the bolts. reinsert the clutch cable to the clutch fork arm.
14.) Reinstall the tranny making sure the splines of the input shaft are fully inserted through the clutch disc and into the pilot bushing on the end of the crankshaft. Tighten the 4 tranny bolts.
15.) Reinstall the tranny mount and cross-member, tighten the bolts.
16.) Reinstall the speedometer cable or speed sensor plug.
17.) Install the driveshaft and tighten the u-joint bolts at the rear-end. This is also a good time to check the u-joints or replace them while the driveshaft is removed.
18.) Reinstall the starter.
19.) Reinstall the shifter and interior pieces that were removed.
20.) Remove the car from the jackstands and test drive your new clutch.
Not real hard, but it can be. Get a helper.
Ooooops, I missed removing the h-pipe, that can be a pain in the a$$ if it's rusted on there good.
And yes, you might want to replace the crankshaft rear main seal while you have the flywheel off, that's easy insurance.
This might give you an idea of what's involved and whether or not you have the tools, time, and effort to get it done. Paying someone else is always easier.
Not really a big deal unless it's your first time.
1.) Get the whole car up on jackstands,remove the interior console pieces inside the car that will allow you to remove the shifter from inside the car, then remove the u-joint bolts at the rear end and remove the driveshaft from the output shaft of the tranny. You might get some fluid leakage there, so be aware, have rags handy.
2.) Put a jack under the tranny to support it and remove the tranny mount bolts and the cross-member bolts, remove the cross-member.
3.) Remove the speedometer cable or speed sensor plug from the left side of the tranny.
4.) Remove the 4 bolts that bolt the tranny to the bellhousing, and separate the tranny from the bellhousing, you might have to pry on it some, then pull the tranny from the bellhousing/clutch assembly. Careful, it's a bit heavy.
5.) Remove the starter.
6.) Remove the bellhousing bolts from the back of the engine block, detach the clutch cable from the clutch fork arm, the throwout bearing and clutch fork arm should've fallen loose when you pulled the tranny from the bellhousing. Remove the bellhousing.
7.) Remove the clutch pressure plate bolts from the flywheel and remove the pressure plate and friction disc.
8.) Inspect the surface of the flywheel for scoring or glazing (shiny burnt look), more than likely, you'll want to have the flywheel resurfaced for a new clutch set-up, but minor glazing can be fixed by scuffing the surface all the way around with emery cloth or sandpaper, but that doesn't guarantee that the surface is flat or un-warped. If unsure, use a straight edge from end to end at different points to verify that the flywheel isn't warped. And if that's too risky for you, remove the flywheel from the back of the engine to have it resurfaced.
9.) Remove the pilot bushing from the end of the inside of the crankshaft, replace it. Pry it out, or pack some grease into the end of the crankshaft, then use the clutch disc alignment tool to force it out by inserting it into the pilot bushing center, then rap the end of the alignment tool with a hammer until the bushing pops out. Carefully do this, any excessive pounding on the end of the crankshaft is not good, but the alignment tool that comes with a new clutch set-up is plastic and shouldn't exert too much force on the crank.
10.) Installation is the opposite of removal. Use new flywheel bolts with a bit of blue loctite on them when reinstalling the flywheel. Torque the flywheel to specs. You'll need a torque wrench and some sort of manual to get the specs for all of your bolt torques.
11.) Reinstall a new pilot bushing.
12.) Using the clutch disc alignment tool, hold the clutch disc against the new pressure plate, and slide the alignment tool through the backside (outer) of the pressure plate, and through the center of the clutch disc while inserting the alignment tool into the end of the crankshaft. Hold the disc and pressure plate in this position while you start threading the pressure plate bolts into the flywheel. Make sure the disc is centered with the alignment tool before you torque down the pressure plate bolts.
13.) Grease and slide on a new throwout bearing onto the clutch fork arm and position it into the bellhousing. Install the bellhousing and tighten the bolts. reinsert the clutch cable to the clutch fork arm.
14.) Reinstall the tranny making sure the splines of the input shaft are fully inserted through the clutch disc and into the pilot bushing on the end of the crankshaft. Tighten the 4 tranny bolts.
15.) Reinstall the tranny mount and cross-member, tighten the bolts.
16.) Reinstall the speedometer cable or speed sensor plug.
17.) Install the driveshaft and tighten the u-joint bolts at the rear-end. This is also a good time to check the u-joints or replace them while the driveshaft is removed.
18.) Reinstall the starter.
19.) Reinstall the shifter and interior pieces that were removed.
20.) Remove the car from the jackstands and test drive your new clutch.
Not real hard, but it can be. Get a helper.
Ooooops, I missed removing the h-pipe, that can be a pain in the a$$ if it's rusted on there good.
And yes, you might want to replace the crankshaft rear main seal while you have the flywheel off, that's easy insurance.
This might give you an idea of what's involved and whether or not you have the tools, time, and effort to get it done. Paying someone else is always easier.
08-16-2005, 01:16 PM
#6
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location:
Posts: 5,205
RE: how hard is it to put in a new clutch??
you need to change the rear main seal to a 1 peice fel pro gasket the Ford design 2 peice gaskets sucks and will leak sooner or later so i would change it since you will have everything already out of the car
08-16-2005, 10:49 PM
#8
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Indy
Posts: 90
RE: how hard is it to put in a new clutch??
ORIGINAL: rwdguy86
did you pull that strait out of the chiltons??? you for got the first step, disconect the negitive side of the battery..lol jk
did you pull that strait out of the chiltons??? you for got the first step, disconect the negitive side of the battery..lol jk
Honestly, no. I was just bored and thought I should contribute something to the cause here, I mostly hang out in "off topic".I relayed the steps as I went along, which took some time, and I was sure I'd forget something like the exhaust and the negative battery cable.
But yes, be sure and disconnect that negative battery cable guys, you don't want that starter throwing sparks if it touches metal. You can leave the wires hooked up to the starter, but don't let the starter dangle from the wires, hang it up out of the way or something.[sm=smiley20.gif]
08-16-2005, 11:09 PM
#9
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Indy
Posts: 90
RE: how hard is it to put in a new clutch??
ORIGINAL: 90Mustangfan
how hard is that to do?
how hard is that to do?
More than likely your engine already uses the one-piece rear main seal if it's a '90. I'm not certain on when the 5.0 engine switched to the one-piece, but my engine's an '83 and it has a one-piece seal.
But if yours was a 2-piece seal, and you want to switch to a 1-piece, I think there's a lip on the crankshaft that has to be machined down to be able to make that swap. And the 2-piece seal slides into a groove on the rear main cap, and into a groove machined into the block. I don't think you can just remove a 2-piece and install a 1-piece.
However, a 1-piece rear main seal is about the easiest thing you can change on your engine, with the flywheel removed. It's tapped into the block around the rear of the crankshaft. To remove it, just use a screwdriver to pry it out being careful not to marr the crank surface that the seal rides on, then put some oil on the rubber lip of the new seal and tap it into place, making sure it's evenly tapped in all the way around the block. If it's cocked slightly, it'll leak. Very easy.
08-18-2005, 01:27 AM
#10
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location:
Posts: 110
RE: how hard is it to put in a new clutch??
I just did mine last week & it was a pain in the *** I have done a dozen or so clutches in my life & this was by far the hardest. the only reason for this is my car had 195k on the original clutch (bought it of a 70 year old original owner who drove it all highway for the 1st 150k in 4 years & then he put 35 on in the next 10 after he retired. nothing would unbolt I had to cut almost all the exhaust bolt & then after breaking 3 sockets (1 was my 15mm impact socket) I finaly put a torch to 3 bolts & had to get them glowing to get them off & then to add insult the input shaft was seized to the clutch disc.
if I had to do it again right now though I think it would take me 4 hours
if I had to do it again right now though I think it would take me 4 hours