Bought Kenne Bell 1.5l now what about fuel?
11-30-2010, 11:05 PM
#11
I have a kenne bell running 11 PSI and I'm running 30lb fuel injectors, Pro M MAF, and 155lb hr fuel pump and the car actually runs too rich. Stock 24lb will be adequate for 8lbs of boost on an other wise stock motor. The fuel pump could use a boost to at least 155lb hr. The FMB units are pretty much junk, rather mine was hooked up or not didn't affect the fuel pressure. A good local mechanic I know (when I confronted him about the fuel management unit and my car being rich) said to toss out the fuel management unit cause they do go bad and really don't do much, it's the tuning that's key, the FMUs are more intended for stock units than modified. Even though yours is stock your ECU and fuel system is upgraded from the base GT model so you naturally get more fuel.
For a mild 8psi you wont need tuning for the car to run, the ECU will do most of the work naturally but it would be a good idea to knock 2* of base timing out the motor (from 10* to 8*) just as a back up and or get an ignition control module that reducing timing per a given amount of boost (best option). Now tuning is a good idea for maximizing power and drivability.
Also don't forget to reduce your spark gap from .055 to .030 and do not use anything other than copper or platinum tip plugs, preferably copper tips. I used a different plug other than copper and it ran the motor too cool for ignition.
Porting the bottom of the SC won't do squat but void any warranty it has. The key to more power isn't the outlet but the inlet pipe aka blowzilla units. Problem is the blowzilla units don't clear the fuel pressure regulator on sn-95s and require you to bend the vacuum line that goes into the fpr.
Have any problems or question pertaining to the install feel free to hit me up via private message or my email www.jt05yd@hotmail.com
For a mild 8psi you wont need tuning for the car to run, the ECU will do most of the work naturally but it would be a good idea to knock 2* of base timing out the motor (from 10* to 8*) just as a back up and or get an ignition control module that reducing timing per a given amount of boost (best option). Now tuning is a good idea for maximizing power and drivability.
Also don't forget to reduce your spark gap from .055 to .030 and do not use anything other than copper or platinum tip plugs, preferably copper tips. I used a different plug other than copper and it ran the motor too cool for ignition.
Porting the bottom of the SC won't do squat but void any warranty it has. The key to more power isn't the outlet but the inlet pipe aka blowzilla units. Problem is the blowzilla units don't clear the fuel pressure regulator on sn-95s and require you to bend the vacuum line that goes into the fpr.
Have any problems or question pertaining to the install feel free to hit me up via private message or my email www.jt05yd@hotmail.com
Last edited by jthorn9; 11-30-2010 at 11:08 PM.
12-02-2010, 04:16 PM
#12
2nd Gear Member
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: California
Posts: 228
Jthorn9,
Thank you for the great advise. I will defintly make a note about the spark plug gaps and baseline timing change. One more question, What belt are you using? Mine doesn't come with a Throttle Body Elbow, so will this one work?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-54151/
I'm in Afghanistan until July of 2011 So I have some time until I actually get to work on it. I just have time to build up parts. Thank you again.
Thank you for the great advise. I will defintly make a note about the spark plug gaps and baseline timing change. One more question, What belt are you using? Mine doesn't come with a Throttle Body Elbow, so will this one work?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-54151/
I'm in Afghanistan until July of 2011 So I have some time until I actually get to work on it. I just have time to build up parts. Thank you again.
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