superjeep

Guys noobie here when it comes to the 5.0 Mustang.. or well Ford in general. I use to be a Chevy guy most my life, but with Chevy taking our tax dollars I have come to be a Ford man. I now have a Powerstroke, and a 347 stroker mustang I just bought. Thought I got a hell of a deal, but problems are plaguing me quickly.

Motor has a bad idle surge (revs to 2K back down to 800, back up to 2K then falls on its face and dies) It does this unless I rev it up to about 3K for a minute or so then sometimes the idle will smooth out and it will be fine for a few minutes of driving. Then sometimes lets say I'm driving 30mph it will keep driving this speed with no gas. The RPMS will stay up by itself.

I've been doing some reading and I cleaned the IAC valve good, cleaned the MASS (its an aftermarket one), and cleaned the throttle body good.

I am getting codes 113 and 212. I can not perform a KOER yet cuz the damn thing just jumps everywhere until it does then the scanner will give an error. What you guys think??

What you guys think?? I love the car it has crazy crazy power.. Love it more than my old Camaro SS with H/C/I. Just feels natural and best of all.. American

superjeep

347 Stroker 5 speed centerforce clutch, ported polished head, comp cam 274 .555/.565 2.02/1.60 valves, 1.6 RR, all forged, edelbrock upper/lower intake, 42lb injectors, 75mm BBK mass air, C&L Intake

rtintwo

113 is the air change temp sensor reading high. This is the little sensor in your air cleaner box that reads the ambient air temp so the puter knows what the air density is. This sensor ties into the MAF sensor however i have never heard of one causing the symptoms you are talking about but i have only seen them read low before cause the sensor got damaged and the circuit opened.

212 is and i quote "Tach, circuit, SPOUT grounded. SPOUT circuit, open circuit" The spout is the little jumper plug in the wiring harness that you have to pull out to set the timing. Take a look and see if somebody left the plug out the last time they checked the timing. This is the most common cause of this code. However if it is plugged in ohm th plug to see if its gone open.

With those two codes and the all of the mods done i would say check all of your wiring harness connections to make sure nothing is loose or broken. No obvious damage to the harness.

That gives you a starting point for the codes. Now the most common cause of a surging engine is a big vacuum leak. Look your vacuum lines over, spray the intake with carb cleaner to see if it will breifly run better. Pull the spout(if you still hve one) and check your timing with a light. A bad or missalined chain can cause your tiing to do some very crazy things. You dont have the code for it but check your TPS sensor with a ohm meter to see if you have dead spots.

superjeep

I changed the IAT sensor. I've noticed sometimes it idles great, other times it'll bounce a few times 900rpm - 1400 rpm then die. Other times it'll idle at 1300 rpms. and when its idling fine it'll be aorund 800rpms. I'm finding more frustrating things I dont see the spout connector, just a harness with a cut wire and many splices to other things. A few vacuum lines are plugged. One vacuum line (very small one) running from along firewall from brake booster to driver side was disconnected. One line on passenger side is totally disconnected and is hooked to some sort of sensor (see photo)

superjeep

I checked the TPS.. As I was trying to get to the wire one of them came loose. I then noticed on the wiring harness that runs along engine all three wires are spliced in.... This is becoming more and more frustrating

Bubba 95SN

Spout connector is near the MAF you will see ignition module in a heat sink.

superjeep

Ok found it. The connector has the plug. When I ohm the plug what should I be looking for?

The TPS sensor reads 1V

rtintwo

The spout plug should have continuity and ohms wise it should be very close to zero. Fot the TPS you need to hook your meter back up and slowly open the throttle. The ohm reading should be a smooth change, any jumping around or open spots means the TPS is bad.

Ok i cant see the pics at work, but your description of cut and spliced wires, vacuum line problems has me thinking this is more likely your issue. That the wires are loose in thier splices and the PCM cant see everything thats going on. Maybe sombody that can see the pics can say whats up in them.

dreamer1uk

Veryuseful.com has some Mustang vacuum routing diagrams that should help you with that area. Same too for wiring.

As for your TPS, you can sweep test it with a DVOM with the KOEO and probe the GND and SGN RTN. It shoud be around 0.98v idle and 4.9 WOT.

Where in IL are you? I may be able to lend a hand

frdmstng1986GT

I'm surprised no one has brought this up, but from what I have read and seen the 94+95 computers can be kinda finicky when it comes to can choice. Can't remember exactly what to look for, lsa maybe. But certain came will make the cars idle eraticly and throw codes. Just a thought. Hope you get it figured out.