fomocogogo

Just bought this car and am very anxious to get it running. Any input on the situation would be greatly appreciated. The car is a 1995 mustang gt, 5 speed, 5.0. with 120k miles. Guy i got it from said one day he was driving it then it died. He claims that sometimes it will start and run for 30 seconds then die. I have not been able to get it running. He believed it was a bad ground to the ECU. I put a spark tester on it and it does get spark to the coil and to the spark plugs. I sprayed starting fluid into the intake and it does not want to start any better. Seems unaffected. The previous owner replaced the ECU with a brand new one from napa, along with a new ignition. It has an aftermarket alarm system on it.

Any help would be amazing.

Thanks in advance.

Bubba 95SN

Check fuel pressure regardless of the starting fluid. KOEO & KOEM test. Noid light at injectors. Check with timing light, and compression test. Post results.

fomocogogo

what is the best way to check fuel pressure?

enix187

carefully rip the alarm system off, as in disconnect it slowly making sure not to harm the factory harness,

http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=588.0

buster

I'd say a bad fuel pump

AdderMk2

wouldnt start with starting fluid, and has spark... Im gonna go with a timing problem.

fomocogogo

Heres the update. I ran all the no start dianostic tests off the sbftech website provided starting with spark. All were good untill i got to the fuel. I did not test fuel pressure because the guage at the autoparts store was 60$ and i wanted to make sure i needed it before buying. When the key is in the on position i can hear the fuel pump prime. All the tests were good until i got to the fuel injectors. I used my test light as a noid light. I turned the key to on position, hooked it up the injector harness, rotated distributor back and forth and the fuel pump did not prime. I could not hear it turn on like i do when i turn the key to the on position nor did the test light illuminate. Where do i go from here? It still will not start with starting fluid. Seems fuel/timing related, since i ruled out spark. I have yet to disconnect the aftermarket alarm. Im going to try to do that now. But until then any input on the sitiuation would be great as im getting closer to the problem.

Thanks.

fomocogogo

anyone want to chime in?

AdderMk2

If you have the distributor out of the engine, and are spinning it by hand, does the test light light up once every two times the distributor goes around?

If you can get the test light to glow, but your fuel pump is still not turning on, I would suggest that your CCRM may have a fault in the fuel pump relay. A good test for this is to try to set the distributor back into place as close to the correct timing as possible. Run a 12v+ jumper from the battery, to the trunk. Disconnect the inertia switch in fron of the drivers side tail light. Run the 12v+ jumper into the side of the harness that goes to the fuel pump. It should kick on right away. With this jumper in place, try to start the car again.

This test will effectively bypass any fuel pump electronics, and let you know that the car atleast runs.

fomocogogo

ALRIGHT... As of now i ran all basic tests. All are Great. If you start the car and hold the key all the way in the start position it will stay running, runs great in fact, you could prob even drive it around. Once you let the key back to run position the car will die. I have the car at my mechanics and hes been tinkering with it. We are both out of ideas and could use some help. So far the aftermarket alarm has been taken out, new ecu, new ignition, new distributor, new coil, checked all relays. I think it may be a bad ground wire? Where should i start?