92hatchLX

I can probably weld them up in school, I know how to weld I just can't afford a welder.

Pure5.0

I would say they are a big improvment but I didn't see a HUGE improvement. The only reason was is because I have two cars....and my mustang is not my daily driver. After the connectors were installed I drove the mustang for the first time in 3 months.

But the more I drive it the more I notice the things that have improved. Although I do wish that they eliminated more sqweeking then they did. My car still squeaks bad...making me wonder that it was not my chassis making the noise but rather my suspension. I just need more support than full length connectors can give.

I welded mine in (the wonders to having a Millar MIG welder). Took me about 4 hours to do them right. That means grinding down for proper contact, lining then up perfectly (well what i thought was perfect), welding them in, and painting them over.

Had to wait 24 hours for the paint to dry though.....

They did solve my sagging front left corner!!!!!!

5Liter Import Eater

I dont know a lot about subframes but does it matter which type? because on Mustangsunlimited.com they have a pair that is only 50 bucks and all the other ones are 100 or more. What kind should i get? i know ill have em welded in but is the $100 set that much better than the $50 ones?

Pure5.0

The difference could be full length and standard size.

Full length is longer than standard which means you have more surface area that you can weld to your car...creating a sturdier underside.

Go with full....the 50 extra is worth it if it is because they are full length.

w8less

i had mine welded in for 25 bucks i think and i really couldn't tell that much of a difference

crazyhorse

it is good to use a drive on lift if possible, with doors shut , windows up , hatch shut,hood closed & t-tops in or sun roof closed .

92hatchLX

Ya it's fine, anything that can elevate the vehicle safely.

86HOGT

Yeah I welded mine in myself on the alignment rack at work so the car was not unsprung and perfectly level. I did get the cheap ones, but they still make a big improvement. The big test was at our DQ drive through, the exit, you go down a hill that twists and turns. Before you could feel the twist and hear creaks, now nothing.

Fishhawk

I installed bolt on subframe connectors from Competition Engineering,($99) then had a local muffler shop weld them in. ($25) Great fit, very well engineered.