marlyman

hey hey so i just got this 88 saleen as a rolling chassis 4.10 gears subframe connectors flaming river manual rack an pinion lowered shaved door handles an trunk with custom tweed interior.. it came with no motor no transmission an no computer harness.. i have another 88 lx that i recently did a full rebuild on an so i began my motor swap..the engine bay had been sand blasted so there was nothing in there..once i swapped all vacuum lines brake booster an the computer with harness i droped my motor an trans in buttond up driveshaft an all exhaust an pluged everything in to correct spots..fired it up an yay what do u know it started an ran great! -----for about ten minutes then it just died tried to turn it back on and nothing...thought i was just stupid an let it run out of gas so i went an got 3 1/2 gallons of some supreme an still nothing! i check my spark an got good spark pulled gas lines off an it took awhile to prime the lines but im getting gas... now this car had door poppers and an alarm i think it had a remote start on it aswell..but when i got it some important piece of the alarm/popping/remote start had been removed so they didnt work an some of the under dash wiring had been tampered with i.e. spliced into or cut...im thinking that could be my problem but then again it had started once an ran for awhile so im confused...Oh an in order for it to run when i got it running, i had to put all the wires that go to the soleniod on to constant power... every wire exept for the started cable...im guessing something is messed up with the cables because i get no power when they are hooked up properly.. but they all work when i put them to the side where the battery cable connects to on the soleniod which is constant power..an its a new soleniod.. could i have fried something while it was running with all the wires on the constant power side of the soleniod?? the ingnition works the starter but only when the wires get a constant power of course the starter cable is in its correct spot or itd just stay on...uhg this is a long post sorry but i'd appreciate any insight thanks 4 your time!! only thoughts taht could be the problem is why the wires wont work on solenoid with key in on position and or the fuel pump? maybe the fuel pump is set up for carb so it doesnt have enough psi for the fuel injection?? it did run for like 10 minutes but now no more..thanks for any ideas!

marlyman

So a lot of veiws but now replys means probly too long of post/too many questions SOoO to shorten the post without makin a duplicate post cause i know mjr hates that

Question 1:

Why would my wires not work when connected to proper location on solenoid including starter, but all work when put on constant power side of solenoid? the solenoid is brand new and once all wires exept the starter cable are on constant the ignition makes the starter come on like its supposed to but only when the other wires are on constant power???

Quetion 2:

What psi out of fuel pump is needed to work properly for fuel injection?

mjr46

you need to check the little wire that goes out to the selonoid that becomes hot in the crank position, my bet is it won't have current on it in the crank position , most likely due to the alarm mess under the dash...they most likely cut that wire and spliced it to the alarm interupt circuit...reconnect all wires under the dash, should be easy as you should look for two ends of the cut color coded wires, if prob still is present, inspect harness plug that plugs into the ignition switch on the column for overheated pins

1987gt40ttop

also check to see if the car was an automatic if it was check the park neutral saftey switch as that could be tampered with for the old remote start. try to trace out an cables and see if you can match ends that were hacked into or spiced. could be as easy as finding color for color, fuel pressure should be around 35 psi

marlyman

Uuhhg So i am getting power on that red/blue wire during crank position but only when i have the main Yellow wire connected to constant power.. an the fuel pump doesnt work unless i give it constant power but whats weird is when i put the fuel pump on constant power it only comes on with the ignition...would it be a problem to have all the wires except the starter on constant all the time even when they dont wok without turning key? im just so mad cause the engine started an ran for atleast 5-10 minutes then just stopped...i checked the ingnition area an no wires seem burnt....a few wires were disconnected / spliced into an i removed / reconnected all wires it just doesnt make sense!!man!!

RedFox91

This issue had been causing an intermittent start situation in my car. Old remote start had been spliced into the neutral safety switch and would cause a no crank, no start, no nothing (but all power accessories would work). I took the remote start wires out and re-spliced the NSS wire and all is good. On my car it was the pink wire coming out of the ignition module.

1987gt40ttop

putting all the wires on constant power with possible with toggle switches, many old hot rods are that way or cars where harnesses and motors dont match up its a quick fix but then you would running your call like an old school car that lacks the technology that your car has. plus its more likely to break down or have problems. get your self a manual or even google a wiring diagram and trace it out. you have to demo all the hacked into stuff and reconnect the original. its the only way to gaurantee its right. do you have a dmm? or even a test light? it wont be as bad as it seems you can figure it out and fix it right

lxman1

Alarm mess or actual ignition switch. The had a recall on those.

marlyman

UPDATE - Ok so i figured the starting problem out ...it was my fuel pump! i got a walbro 255lph pump an when i dropped the tank to look at it the 3 nch rubber tube connecting the pump to the pickup was all disintagrated!! put a new tube on an wa-lah starts right up! Ahem it stars right up with all the wires on constant! Uhhg i took out all the mess under my dash an reconnected wires in correct locations but still i get nothing when the wires are on the correct spot of the solenoid...I like the toggle switch idea even tho i really shouldnt need one it would defiently be a quick fix but with all the wires except the starter on constant (While Running) would it burn anything out like melt wires blow fuses or burn out coil or something? oh an my damn blinkers dont work an i tried switching out the blinker itself on the steering columb but nuthin they still dont work...im thinking it has something to do with the alarm that was in the car but i took eveerything out an reconnected wires so idunno wtf...any ideas ? thx again this website is so damn helpful