Bubba 95SN

Keith, I got it...reverse the battery connection! Bet you have power to the ground now. But why?

scottybaccus

Sounds like you wiped the cam. You said the oil pump failed right after you put it on the road and you've had lifters fail. This all suggests you had a oil starvation problem.

I'll bet you a dollar that the cam is wiped and continuing to go away. Did you just rebuild or install a new cam? How did you go about break-in?

AdderMk2

i'm just going to stop now while I'm ahead... This parts house counter monkey clearly thinks he knows more than an ASE certified tech.

OP, you are a lost cause. You car will never run right because you wont pull your head out of your ***, shut the **** up, and take the advise we are giving you.

mjr46

Easy there turbo

Klowdedsoul

If I thought I knew more than your supposedly certified ***, I wouldn't be here so don't be a douche. I've had a 40 year experienced tech telling me this is a vacuum leak, I've done everything he said to check for a vacuum leak and keep coming up with nothing but of course he won't look at it and still says its vacuum.

Virtually everything you guys have said to check I've been over and over and OVER and come up with no change.

If you're certified tell me why you can't set timing at the crank when according to Ford, Chilton and MSD you need "initial" timing at the crank before you start the engine and adjust the distributor. I'm not ASE, I've had one year basic auto training at school and nine years in the store and it took me two seconds to find information on initial timing. Car Craft magazine said they set all their engines at 10* no matter who the make is. Apparently I didn't get that out of thin air. You're the only one debating "initial" timing.

http://www.msdignition.com/instructiondownload.aspx

^ This will tell you what initial timing is but you probably still won't believe me.

If its timing, tell me how I set the timing, yes with a light, and it made a big difference for how it was then and got so much better without altering it and got so bad without altering it?? If you can explain that, I will dive into that thing my next day off which is Tuesday and give you the results. AND, if it improves I will start a whole new thread telling everyone in capital letters that you are the shiz nizzle. Which distributor do you want me to use, vacuum, mechanical, what??

I don't want to run in circles, like I have been with mr. 40 yr experience and the vacuum lines changing stuff I have already changed twice and the only thing I gained was a bunch of hoses laying around and clamps all over my vacuum lines. One guy said 5psi was a good move, it didn't change anything but I'm not going to move it up to 10psi like guys around town have said. You're not telling me its vacuum so obviously we've progressed a little.

Here's what I've done.

vacuum lines, intake gasket(s), Summit said the first thing that came to mind was it wasn't advancing so I replaced the whole thing to start fresh and had no change. I changed the plugs, the old ones were medium gray, Summit said that was good, wires are good, I sprayed the intake and carb with starting fluid and carb cleaner, 12 people told me to do that, no results, one guy said my jets were clogged so I pulled the lid off the carb, it looked like new so I cleaned it with carb cleaner anyway and no change. I reset the idle mix screws. I checked the headers, no leaks, bolts are tight, I haven't heard back from the exhaust guy so I'm guessing I'm ok there.

So, I guess I'm back to Mr. ASE tech, take my challenge, I have no problem putting my money where my mouth is but won't tell me how it went from great to **** without adjusting it either time. I have one tech that won't come off his vacuum theory and another thats certified by Ford but doesn't know what type F is or a traction lok and his answer is to put fuel injection on it because he can't do squat without a computer telling him what to do. So show me you're the right tech.

Now, Mr. Baccus. You say the cam could be wiped. I changed the oil a few weeks ago, there were no noticeable metal shavings, no unusual noises or anything like that. The cam and lifters and rods are three years old. Roughly 10-12k on them. The oil pressure has always been in the middle of the gauge (stock high/ low). The lifters I took out, now all three for that matter, had absolutely no negative physical signs. They looked like new. I soaked the new ones in oil and used a rod to slowly pump them until there were no more air bubbles, then I installed them. After changing the first two lifters around May, it ran like a rapped ape, it was dead on, no carb adjustment, no timing adjustment, never lossened the bolt. It was on like Donky Kong. After the third one, in early July, this time on the driver side, it went to hell in a hand basket. It runs exactly the way it did before but no clicking. I was told it may not be advancing so I put in a whole new distributor, even set it with a light, nothing happened.

If there is anything else you think I should check there I would be happy to because apparently I have a date with a distributor Tuesday.

mjr46

I've had to troubleshoot cars 20-30+ experienced mechanics can't figure out cause they get stuck "inside the box" theroy..............as far as timing, you don't rotate the crank to the 10 degree btdc mark then drop dizzy in = wrong!!!! I don't care what a book is saying, if that is how you are doing it, you are misinterpreting what they are saying by setting timing at the crank, set crank to tdc on the 0 mark then drop dizzy in with rotor pointing at number 1, (addermk2 has a how to here in the stickey's) then you fire it up and rotate dizzy until pointer lines up with 10 degrees btdc, that is setting it at the crank, with a timing light, personally, I set performance engines at 13-15 base with a total advance of 32-36 depending on the application

projectresto83

The motor will also run fine with no timing advance..Been there done that... Like Mjr said I to think you are not understanding what the books are all saying. I would ditch the MSD dizzy and just run a stock one. You have nothing really special in your build.....Its very close to what I had previously...

What you need to do to check for the vac leak is to get a damn vacuum gauge, hook it up, and see what it is saying. Do you have the vac line running down to your vac modulator on the transmission?

rtintwo

Ok before the pissing match gets worse. At 2500 RPM using the timing light your ignition advance should be at about 35* at idle about 10*, is this happening when the only thing you are changing is the RPM of the engine. If it is dont mess with the distributor.

Next have you looked down the barrels and verified that the accelerator pumps are working and that you dont have a flood of fuel going down the barrles when running?

Klowdedsoul

THAT is what I was looking for. Telling me to set the timing when I was lead to believe I had done it right to begin with was not helpful. Thanks for telling me why it was wrong.

projectresto83

Most likely that is your issue. I just got mine fired up for the first time and it would idle fine but it would not go above 3k and was really crappy. I restabbed the dizzy and it runs like a champ.