loud T-5 noise after clutch replacement
#1
loud T-5 noise after clutch replacement
I recently installed a rebuilt T-5 into my 1966 Mustang. It has a 5.0 and the T-5 it previously had was from a 1994 and I am using a cable conversion. I got a rebuilt transmission from a 93 or older and got all new parts for it (bellhousing, bearings, clutch stuff etc) and installed it a couple months ago.
A few weeks after the install (everything was great at first) when I would reverse out the driveway transmission would occasionally make a knocking noise and the shifter would shake.
Now, a couple months later there is a sort of knocking/vibrating noise when I am accelerating and when I change gears. The noise is most prominent when going into first at low RPM; there is just an extremely loud knocking noise and at speed I can't hear it as well but there is a vibration while accelerating. If I maintain a certain RPM the noise will stop, upon resuming acceleration the noise comes back. When I downshift to slow down there is a horrendous rattle and shake now. Also when the car is idling around 700 rpm (it has a carb so the idle is a little inconsistent sometimes depending on where i am and how long it's been since i've adjusted it, usually its around 800 though) i can hear a rhythmic quiet knocking/thunking noise occassionally. Pushing on the pedal or slightly increasing the idle makes it go away. Also there is a slight garbled noise that goes away when i push on the clutch pedal which, from experience, I think may be the pilot bearing. This all leads me to believe that when we installed it the first time we obviously didn't do something quite right.
I am going to be pulling the transmission and reinstalling it with a few friends at their shop next week. What is probably the cause of this issue and what should we look for and watch for when we put it back in, besides making sure everything is torqued to factory specs? Any feedback would be appreciated as this is concerning for a car that is my daily driver at the moment.
(edit: i hope this is the right section for this, since the engine/trains is 79-95 i assumed it was.)
A few weeks after the install (everything was great at first) when I would reverse out the driveway transmission would occasionally make a knocking noise and the shifter would shake.
Now, a couple months later there is a sort of knocking/vibrating noise when I am accelerating and when I change gears. The noise is most prominent when going into first at low RPM; there is just an extremely loud knocking noise and at speed I can't hear it as well but there is a vibration while accelerating. If I maintain a certain RPM the noise will stop, upon resuming acceleration the noise comes back. When I downshift to slow down there is a horrendous rattle and shake now. Also when the car is idling around 700 rpm (it has a carb so the idle is a little inconsistent sometimes depending on where i am and how long it's been since i've adjusted it, usually its around 800 though) i can hear a rhythmic quiet knocking/thunking noise occassionally. Pushing on the pedal or slightly increasing the idle makes it go away. Also there is a slight garbled noise that goes away when i push on the clutch pedal which, from experience, I think may be the pilot bearing. This all leads me to believe that when we installed it the first time we obviously didn't do something quite right.
I am going to be pulling the transmission and reinstalling it with a few friends at their shop next week. What is probably the cause of this issue and what should we look for and watch for when we put it back in, besides making sure everything is torqued to factory specs? Any feedback would be appreciated as this is concerning for a car that is my daily driver at the moment.
(edit: i hope this is the right section for this, since the engine/trains is 79-95 i assumed it was.)
Last edited by hhahaahyea; 08-03-2011 at 07:49 PM.
#3
yeah, i switched bellhousings from the 94-95 one to the 93 and older one. it's slightly shorter and everything fit together fine.
i'm still using the same driveshaft but the driveshaft i got was specifically for this swap anyway so the ~1" difference shouldn't matter right?
i'm still using the same driveshaft but the driveshaft i got was specifically for this swap anyway so the ~1" difference shouldn't matter right?
#5
You should be using the Steeda 5/8" driveshaft spacer to make up for the difference in input shaft length. I cannot guarantee that it is your problem, but it's definitely the first thing I would try. Although, this late in the game it is completely possible that you will not remedy the problem without replacing other parts. Especially since you said it has gotten worse.
#7
yeah i'm going to pull it all and make sure everything is torqued down right...the trans mount is okay, it was new. i think it might be that the clutch wasn't aligned perfectly and that possibly the flywheel or pressure plate wasn't torqued to spec. i ordered a new pilot bearing to swap out when we pull it.
i'm worried about the driveshaft though since i had one ordered specifically for this swap and don't want to have to again...i think i ordered it through modern driveline and the shop they use in town already had one ready for me based on what i told them (T-5 swap in a 66 with an 8 inch rear...) so i should be okay, maybe i should have been worried with the 94 trans.
does anyone have a picture of their driveshaft going into the T-5? i want to see if mine is too far out now i will post a picture tomorrow when there's light.
i'm worried about the driveshaft though since i had one ordered specifically for this swap and don't want to have to again...i think i ordered it through modern driveline and the shop they use in town already had one ready for me based on what i told them (T-5 swap in a 66 with an 8 inch rear...) so i should be okay, maybe i should have been worried with the 94 trans.
does anyone have a picture of their driveshaft going into the T-5? i want to see if mine is too far out now i will post a picture tomorrow when there's light.
#8
It sounds like your throwout bearring/pivotball/clutchfork is giving you an issue if you play with your pedal/rpm and it goes away. It got progressivly worse so I cant see your driveshaft being the issue because it woulda been instant problem.
#10
what do you mean? everything i bolted up fit fine, no problems with anything until a few months after.
depending on work i should be able to pull it this week...i might as well get a new throwout bearing as well then? is there any way i can tell if the old one is messed up?
depending on work i should be able to pull it this week...i might as well get a new throwout bearing as well then? is there any way i can tell if the old one is messed up?