Radiator change
09-20-2011, 10:30 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 3
Radiator change
New to the forum. Hello everyone. Just bought a 92 5.0 LX Convertible a couple months ago. Radiator has a leak and fan is cracked. Question I have is what are some reccomendations for replacement? Go with OEM replacement or aftermarket? I have found a few but not sure how much modification is needed for them to fit. Also, is it very time consuming and complicated to change them your self? I work military and a part time job so dont have a whole lot of down time. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
09-21-2011, 04:04 PM
#3
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: California
Posts: 41
I just did this.
Twice. (Don't ask)
It is very, very easy and I think you will find it very straight forward. I went with the stock replacement (standard duty no less) from Auto Zone and my car runs too cool now. A new Thermostat is a good idea, but install a 180 (or is it 185? Whatever...that one) degree unit unlike what I did...a 165. Now is the time to do the thermostat. Trust me. 15 more minutes of work. Buy the gasket and some RTV while you are at it. Have a scraper / razor blade / similar on hand, and just do it. Seat it properly or it all comes apart again and you get to start over (again, don't ask).
I can neither recommend nor discourage where to purchase the radiator. Following the reply you provide to the above mentioned question (What mods are on the car) I am sure someone will jump in with some helpful info. But honestly, stock should be just ducky.
Take photos, be organized and enjoy doing the swap. I work 80+ hours a week and when I finally get the chance to do it I have learned to treasure working on my car.
Twice. (Don't ask)
It is very, very easy and I think you will find it very straight forward. I went with the stock replacement (standard duty no less) from Auto Zone and my car runs too cool now. A new Thermostat is a good idea, but install a 180 (or is it 185? Whatever...that one) degree unit unlike what I did...a 165. Now is the time to do the thermostat. Trust me. 15 more minutes of work. Buy the gasket and some RTV while you are at it. Have a scraper / razor blade / similar on hand, and just do it. Seat it properly or it all comes apart again and you get to start over (again, don't ask).
I can neither recommend nor discourage where to purchase the radiator. Following the reply you provide to the above mentioned question (What mods are on the car) I am sure someone will jump in with some helpful info. But honestly, stock should be just ducky.
Take photos, be organized and enjoy doing the swap. I work 80+ hours a week and when I finally get the chance to do it I have learned to treasure working on my car.
09-21-2011, 06:59 PM
#4
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: TN
Posts: 9
An OEM replacement is an aftermarket, i think you are referring to Plastic tanks as OEM replacement and Full Aluminum as Aftermarket. This is strictly based on your engine modifications.
The stock (plastic tank) unit is designed to shed certain heat load specified by car maker at either high RPM and/or high torque conditions, there is always a safety factor built in therefore if you have not done any modifications, stock would work perfectly and save you a bunch of money.
When you start upgrading head, cam, intake and exhaust, your engine heat load goes up and if the increase went above the safety factor, you are in trouble. Now you will need to upgrade to a full aluminum and thicker core to ensure your engine is doing fine. Some people add a turbo or supercharger and never touch their cooling system, that's just insane.
One thing to watch out also is the fan system. If you have an mechanical fan, and you dont care about the power draw/loss from engine, keep it there. Or you can upgrade to an electric fan, they work fine under most circumstances but true performance comparison shows mechanical still works slightly better.
Upgrade the stats is a good idea. Do as Ninety3Coupe did, 180F will work fine. Some people upgrade to 160 with the thought that 160 will allow the system to shed more heat, but the true heat rejection performance is solely depend on radiator design. A 160 stat fully opens 160F but at that temperature engine has not reached the optimal operating temperature, it will just be sluggish, increase the wear and emission problem.
The stock (plastic tank) unit is designed to shed certain heat load specified by car maker at either high RPM and/or high torque conditions, there is always a safety factor built in therefore if you have not done any modifications, stock would work perfectly and save you a bunch of money.
When you start upgrading head, cam, intake and exhaust, your engine heat load goes up and if the increase went above the safety factor, you are in trouble. Now you will need to upgrade to a full aluminum and thicker core to ensure your engine is doing fine. Some people add a turbo or supercharger and never touch their cooling system, that's just insane.
One thing to watch out also is the fan system. If you have an mechanical fan, and you dont care about the power draw/loss from engine, keep it there. Or you can upgrade to an electric fan, they work fine under most circumstances but true performance comparison shows mechanical still works slightly better.
Upgrade the stats is a good idea. Do as Ninety3Coupe did, 180F will work fine. Some people upgrade to 160 with the thought that 160 will allow the system to shed more heat, but the true heat rejection performance is solely depend on radiator design. A 160 stat fully opens 160F but at that temperature engine has not reached the optimal operating temperature, it will just be sluggish, increase the wear and emission problem.
09-22-2011, 12:13 AM
#5
M.A.D. Motorsports
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 8,014
An OEM replacement is an aftermarket, i think you are referring to Plastic tanks as OEM replacement and Full Aluminum as Aftermarket. This is strictly based on your engine modifications.
The stock (plastic tank) unit is designed to shed certain heat load specified by car maker at either high RPM and/or high torque conditions, there is always a safety factor built in therefore if you have not done any modifications, stock would work perfectly and save you a bunch of money.
When you start upgrading head, cam, intake and exhaust, your engine heat load goes up and if the increase went above the safety factor, you are in trouble. Now you will need to upgrade to a full aluminum and thicker core to ensure your engine is doing fine. Some people add a turbo or supercharger and never touch their cooling system, that's just insane.
One thing to watch out also is the fan system. If you have an mechanical fan, and you dont care about the power draw/loss from engine, keep it there. Or you can upgrade to an electric fan, they work fine under most circumstances but true performance comparison shows mechanical still works slightly better.
Upgrade the stats is a good idea. Do as Ninety3Coupe did, 180F will work fine. Some people upgrade to 160 with the thought that 160 will allow the system to shed more heat, but the true heat rejection performance is solely depend on radiator design. A 160 stat fully opens 160F but at that temperature engine has not reached the optimal operating temperature, it will just be sluggish, increase the wear and emission problem.
The stock (plastic tank) unit is designed to shed certain heat load specified by car maker at either high RPM and/or high torque conditions, there is always a safety factor built in therefore if you have not done any modifications, stock would work perfectly and save you a bunch of money.
When you start upgrading head, cam, intake and exhaust, your engine heat load goes up and if the increase went above the safety factor, you are in trouble. Now you will need to upgrade to a full aluminum and thicker core to ensure your engine is doing fine. Some people add a turbo or supercharger and never touch their cooling system, that's just insane.
One thing to watch out also is the fan system. If you have an mechanical fan, and you dont care about the power draw/loss from engine, keep it there. Or you can upgrade to an electric fan, they work fine under most circumstances but true performance comparison shows mechanical still works slightly better.
Upgrade the stats is a good idea. Do as Ninety3Coupe did, 180F will work fine. Some people upgrade to 160 with the thought that 160 will allow the system to shed more heat, but the true heat rejection performance is solely depend on radiator design. A 160 stat fully opens 160F but at that temperature engine has not reached the optimal operating temperature, it will just be sluggish, increase the wear and emission problem.
Even with a modded motor....but yes a 2 or 3 core aluminum would always be better and the mishimoto radiator from latemodel is a good piece for the extra $100....It is actually better to have the 180 in the car over the 160. That way the car doesn't operate in open loop so much in cold weather.
09-22-2011, 01:08 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 3
Wow more than I thought. Thanks guys. I have only done BBK short headers, BBK exhaust, steeda short throw shifter. Not to much yet. I did order a radiator from latemodelresto. 1986-93 Mustang 5.0L Aluminum Radiator Kit with Black Silicone Hose Kit for Manual Transmission - This Mishimoto aluminum radiator and hose kit will give your Mustang a cooler, more efficient running engine, and is an id... $314.99.
I ordered a stock replacement blade. I will look into the thermostat also. I want to do alot with this car. It is teal which I dont like but that will be one of the last things I do. Any suggestions on some mods I can do my self? I plan on a BBK cold air intake. I have tried to upload the picture of it but it isnt letting me.
I ordered a stock replacement blade. I will look into the thermostat also. I want to do alot with this car. It is teal which I dont like but that will be one of the last things I do. Any suggestions on some mods I can do my self? I plan on a BBK cold air intake. I have tried to upload the picture of it but it isnt letting me.
09-22-2011, 02:26 PM
#8
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: California
Posts: 41
Again, do the thermostat while you are in there. Trust me. And DO NOT do what I did, do as recommended by myself and others - Use a 180 degree, not the 160. (I just can't make myself do it AGAIN to swap it out...)
Gears are a great thing, unless you are geared too high, like me. I bought the car with 4.10's and it's just too much for street driving. 3.73 or 3.55 (the latter is what I just bought to replace the 4.10's) are a great alternative and wake up a car.
The intake makes very little performance enhancement, but sure sounds nice. I skipped this step as of yet. I am sure a Craigslist deal will be too good to pass up, but just haven't found it yet.
The options are almost limitless with these things, as you know.
Oh, and an aftermarket shifter. I have a little thread going on here with that topic...sheesh, talk about a can of worms! Anyway, go with a name you like and it'll work great. Everyone has a favorite. I don't think one is "way better dude" than the other, but they are all a HUGE improvement over stock. If you haven't tried one you can't imagine what you are missing. Changes the entire aspect of driving and makes for a much better experience. Go with a brand name and you are gonna be happy.
Good luck and let us know if you have any questions.
Gears are a great thing, unless you are geared too high, like me. I bought the car with 4.10's and it's just too much for street driving. 3.73 or 3.55 (the latter is what I just bought to replace the 4.10's) are a great alternative and wake up a car.
The intake makes very little performance enhancement, but sure sounds nice. I skipped this step as of yet. I am sure a Craigslist deal will be too good to pass up, but just haven't found it yet.
The options are almost limitless with these things, as you know.
Oh, and an aftermarket shifter. I have a little thread going on here with that topic...sheesh, talk about a can of worms! Anyway, go with a name you like and it'll work great. Everyone has a favorite. I don't think one is "way better dude" than the other, but they are all a HUGE improvement over stock. If you haven't tried one you can't imagine what you are missing. Changes the entire aspect of driving and makes for a much better experience. Go with a brand name and you are gonna be happy.
Good luck and let us know if you have any questions.
09-28-2011, 03:25 PM
#10
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Louisville, Ky.
Posts: 1,326
Mine cools fine with a $89 Autozone plastic tank replacement unit. Gonna have the original reworked someday. I would highly recommend replacing the cracked fan blade before it comes apart.
Like mentioned above, if you plan on adding a power adder or a lot of compression I would upgrade now.
Like mentioned above, if you plan on adding a power adder or a lot of compression I would upgrade now.