HELP!! - Purchased Racing Brakes and I might have screwed up ROYALLY! TIME-SENSITIVE!
10-14-2011, 08:22 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 13
HELP!! - Purchased Racing Brakes and I might have screwed up ROYALLY! TIME-SENSITIVE!
Hello,
I have a 94 Mustang Gt, which of-course is front and rear disc. I have gone through 3 sets of rear-calipers and I can't get my emergency brake to work (at all). The problem is actually with the A1Cardone Calipers, there is just something wrong with them. Regardless of which auto-parts store I went through, the brake calipers have directly or in-directly have come from A1Cardone. Just an FYI: I have replaced the both front and rear sections of the E-Brake cable, new rotors, new calipers, and new pads (on my car, as the rear pads go from 100% pad down to 60% pad, the ability for the rear-calipers to clamp down onto the disc goes from 100% down to 0%. - In other words, the E-Brake won't work as good or work at all if the rear pads are partially worn.) After much frustration and being told from the techs at A1Cardone that they were unable to assist me, I've decided to go ahead and purchase aftermarket rear-brakes for my car. Since I would have been the only person in the whole world that would have had stock fronts and aftermarket rears, I decided to upgrade the front brake too.
Even though, aftermarket racing brakes were practically at the bottom of my list of future modifications, I really didn't have a choice since any OEM replacements would directly or in-directly come from A1Cardone.
I was actually excited that I have found a good reason to go-ahead and make another performance modification to my car.
I was excited up until the point were I saw the price of how much this upgrade was going to cost me. 
The cheapest reputable aftermarket brake kit that I found was racing-brakes from Wilwood.
Front brake: Wil-140-9107 - $1,903.94 (Retail)
Rear Brake: 140-10158 - $1,379.00 (Retail)
The good news is that the company that sold me my 6-speed - t-56-Magnium transmission had a dealer account with WilWood and to help me out they sold me my brakes at a very reasonable price and I didn't have to pay full-retail.
Theses brake kits are really awesome: The Wilwood fronts calipers are 6 piston vs. my stock fronts which were only single piston. The Wilwood Rear calipers are still single piston (same as the stocks) however both kits came with slotted over-sized 12.88" rotors. The rotor was designed in a fashion I had never seen before. When time comes for me to replace my brake pads, instead of replacing my entire rotor assembly, I can just replace the slotted section that the brake-pads rub against. The rotor is actually comprised of two sections, the "Hat" which is the base middle part of the rotor which bolts onto the hub, and the "rotor" which is the replaceable slotted section.
O.K. Everyone, this is the big question: As most of you, I find myself on the interstate at night-time doing 130-140mph at least once a month, however, the function of this car is a daily driver. I don't see me entering any kinds of racing events since this this car is really heavy due to the fact it's a convertible which is much heavier than a coupe, my huge stereo which I placed in the trunk to get more weight on the rear tires, the 150lbs of Dynamat (once again stereo) and my Air-Conditioner/Power-Steering, this car is simply too heavy to attempt to run in any event. With all this in mind, here's the #1 question.
Did I screw myself by getting these brakes!!!! The replacement rotors are retailed $189.00 each (compared to $30 for stock rotors) and the brake pads are $72-$150 for a set (Normally $30-$50 for stock pads). To do just a front-brake job I am going to be looking at minimum of $450 + shipping compared to $110 (for a stock-front-brake-job). I was told by the Wilwood rep that these brakes will last 3-4 times as long as a stock setup. I'm certain that I will get longer periods between brake jobs since the brakes are literally bigger, but will realistically see 3-4 times longer. If this is the case, I'm o.k. with 3-4 time longer because doing a front-brake job is going to cost me 4 times as much as before and I'll literally be braking even. I'm o.k. with this because I was kinda forced into this situation due to the problems I was having with my stock rear-calipers, however, if I am not going to experience any increase in brake-wear, I need to find another solution (like forgetting about having an e-brake and just use bricks) and immediately return these racing-brakes while I'm still within my 30days. I should have checked first before making this purchase and during the course of looking up proportion valves and larger master-cylinders I was able to educate myself to the point I was able to make the determination that maybe I didn't make a good decision with purchasing race-style brakes. When replacing parts on my car that have broken, I tend to try to find the very-best part offered so that I don't have replace it again. Most of the time, these better parts are parts designed for racing applications so I have gotten in the habit of buying racing parts.
Any thoughts or life-experiences with any after-market brake system will be much appreciated. You guys eat and sleep this stuff everyday, therefore I will know for certain I will get the truth behind the longevity of these after-market racing brakes or racing brakes in general.
Thank you for reading!!!
David.
I have a 94 Mustang Gt, which of-course is front and rear disc. I have gone through 3 sets of rear-calipers and I can't get my emergency brake to work (at all). The problem is actually with the A1Cardone Calipers, there is just something wrong with them. Regardless of which auto-parts store I went through, the brake calipers have directly or in-directly have come from A1Cardone. Just an FYI: I have replaced the both front and rear sections of the E-Brake cable, new rotors, new calipers, and new pads (on my car, as the rear pads go from 100% pad down to 60% pad, the ability for the rear-calipers to clamp down onto the disc goes from 100% down to 0%. - In other words, the E-Brake won't work as good or work at all if the rear pads are partially worn.) After much frustration and being told from the techs at A1Cardone that they were unable to assist me, I've decided to go ahead and purchase aftermarket rear-brakes for my car. Since I would have been the only person in the whole world that would have had stock fronts and aftermarket rears, I decided to upgrade the front brake too.
Even though, aftermarket racing brakes were practically at the bottom of my list of future modifications, I really didn't have a choice since any OEM replacements would directly or in-directly come from A1Cardone.
I was actually excited that I have found a good reason to go-ahead and make another performance modification to my car.
I was excited up until the point were I saw the price of how much this upgrade was going to cost me. The cheapest reputable aftermarket brake kit that I found was racing-brakes from Wilwood.Front brake: Wil-140-9107 - $1,903.94 (Retail)
Rear Brake: 140-10158 - $1,379.00 (Retail)
The good news is that the company that sold me my 6-speed - t-56-Magnium transmission had a dealer account with WilWood and to help me out they sold me my brakes at a very reasonable price and I didn't have to pay full-retail.
Theses brake kits are really awesome: The Wilwood fronts calipers are 6 piston vs. my stock fronts which were only single piston. The Wilwood Rear calipers are still single piston (same as the stocks) however both kits came with slotted over-sized 12.88" rotors. The rotor was designed in a fashion I had never seen before. When time comes for me to replace my brake pads, instead of replacing my entire rotor assembly, I can just replace the slotted section that the brake-pads rub against. The rotor is actually comprised of two sections, the "Hat" which is the base middle part of the rotor which bolts onto the hub, and the "rotor" which is the replaceable slotted section.
O.K. Everyone, this is the big question: As most of you, I find myself on the interstate at night-time doing 130-140mph at least once a month, however, the function of this car is a daily driver. I don't see me entering any kinds of racing events since this this car is really heavy due to the fact it's a convertible which is much heavier than a coupe, my huge stereo which I placed in the trunk to get more weight on the rear tires, the 150lbs of Dynamat (once again stereo) and my Air-Conditioner/Power-Steering, this car is simply too heavy to attempt to run in any event. With all this in mind, here's the #1 question.
Did I screw myself by getting these brakes!!!! The replacement rotors are retailed $189.00 each (compared to $30 for stock rotors) and the brake pads are $72-$150 for a set (Normally $30-$50 for stock pads). To do just a front-brake job I am going to be looking at minimum of $450 + shipping compared to $110 (for a stock-front-brake-job). I was told by the Wilwood rep that these brakes will last 3-4 times as long as a stock setup. I'm certain that I will get longer periods between brake jobs since the brakes are literally bigger, but will realistically see 3-4 times longer. If this is the case, I'm o.k. with 3-4 time longer because doing a front-brake job is going to cost me 4 times as much as before and I'll literally be braking even. I'm o.k. with this because I was kinda forced into this situation due to the problems I was having with my stock rear-calipers, however, if I am not going to experience any increase in brake-wear, I need to find another solution (like forgetting about having an e-brake and just use bricks) and immediately return these racing-brakes while I'm still within my 30days. I should have checked first before making this purchase and during the course of looking up proportion valves and larger master-cylinders I was able to educate myself to the point I was able to make the determination that maybe I didn't make a good decision with purchasing race-style brakes. When replacing parts on my car that have broken, I tend to try to find the very-best part offered so that I don't have replace it again. Most of the time, these better parts are parts designed for racing applications so I have gotten in the habit of buying racing parts.
Any thoughts or life-experiences with any after-market brake system will be much appreciated. You guys eat and sleep this stuff everyday, therefore I will know for certain I will get the truth behind the longevity of these after-market racing brakes or racing brakes in general.
Thank you for reading!!!
David.
10-14-2011, 09:54 PM
#3
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 2,166
Sounds like a similar setup to what im doing right now on my car. Ive swapped out to a dual master cylinder setup and 6 piston 13" fronts and 4 piston 11" rears. So far I havent driven the car yet since im still working on it and waiting on my wheels from weld. Also good luck getting your stock wheels to fit.
10-14-2011, 09:57 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 13
I did say at nighttime (where's there's nobody on the road!!!) and interstate (where no one has a chance of pulling out in front of me since it's limited access, and I have a couple-mile visibility so I can slow down in-case I do come upon someone.) I also said "by myself" therefore, why in the world would you care? It's not like I'm one of the jokers that do it in the daytime around traffic, or worse, on highly accessed roads!!
I didn't think you could get OEM brakes for that car!!! How many pistons is the front and rear?
~D
10-14-2011, 10:08 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 13
Sounds like a similar setup to what im doing right now on my car. Ive swapped out to a dual master cylinder setup and 6 piston 13" fronts and 4 piston 11" rears. So far I havent driven the car yet since im still working on it and waiting on my wheels from weld. Also good luck getting your stock wheels to fit.
10-15-2011, 06:42 AM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 13
O.K, it's 7:30am, been up all night, trying to figure this out.
Been looking online for replacement rotors. My new brakes take a 12.88 (Outside Diameter) with a 1.25 (width) rotor, which uses a 5 x 4.50 bolt pattern.
Read on Article that kinda addressed on the same issue as I am having and suggested that the brakes were top-notch, however the rotors would kill the pocket, and to use SRT Rotors which are $75. At $75.00 per rotor, I would be dancing the jig because that's only double the stock and surely I could get the same to double longevity on the new brakes. So far, I haven't had any luck locating SRT.
All I was trying to do was find quality good brakes for my car that actually worked.
Been looking online for replacement rotors. My new brakes take a 12.88 (Outside Diameter) with a 1.25 (width) rotor, which uses a 5 x 4.50 bolt pattern.
Read on Article that kinda addressed on the same issue as I am having and suggested that the brakes were top-notch, however the rotors would kill the pocket, and to use SRT Rotors which are $75. At $75.00 per rotor, I would be dancing the jig because that's only double the stock and surely I could get the same to double longevity on the new brakes. So far, I haven't had any luck locating SRT.
All I was trying to do was find quality good brakes for my car that actually worked.
10-15-2011, 08:14 AM
#7
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location:
Posts: 6,936
with as bad as even the highways are in ky(they don't have pot-holes they have craters), and then the possibility of a deer or something running out I too will call you a dumbass for going that fast. Sometimes I think they test missles/bombs on those roads.... I can say it because I am just across the river from Ky and do drive its roads when I have a need to go slumming.
I have heard you can do the cobra swap even cheaper if you know how.
I have heard you can do the cobra swap even cheaper if you know how.
10-15-2011, 08:20 AM
#8
M.A.D. Motorsports
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 8,014
Dude, you should have came here and asking questions before you spent more on the brakes than your whole car is worth. Especially since you DO NOT need that much brake. Another note on racing brakes(well more the racing brake pads).....they don't work worth a damn when cold. They have to be heated up to work well.
This is where you should start for the front.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...tyle-Brake-Kit
Or if you THINK you need more...
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...rake-Rotor-Kit
As for your actual issue....its not your calipers. There is NO WAY you went through 3 sets and had the EXACT same issue with all of them.
How long do your rear pads last before the E-brake "doesn't work"?
This is where you should start for the front.
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...tyle-Brake-Kit
Or if you THINK you need more...
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...rake-Rotor-Kit
As for your actual issue....its not your calipers. There is NO WAY you went through 3 sets and had the EXACT same issue with all of them.
How long do your rear pads last before the E-brake "doesn't work"?
10-15-2011, 08:46 AM
#9
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: OH
Posts: 829
good quality brakes doesn't mean selling your first born. I race, and all I run is svo front calipers with performance pads and I stop perfectly fine. 6 pistons is a LOT of potential force, in other words you shouldn't have any issues locking up the brakes granted you can hoof the pedal hard enough. The thing about going performance with something that came oem is warranties, all my stuff is lifetime meaning I basically don't have to buy a thing again except possibly rotors.
10-15-2011, 09:22 AM
#10
my wilwood rear disk brakes are the big brake kit and have around 10k on them and many 120 to 0 stops and they barely are showing wear. i think you will be ok just put aside like 10 dollars a pay check and that way when its time to replace the parts your good to go.