charging issues
#1
charging issues
88' GT - carb'd motor from previous owner (no carb comments please):
Car starts and the "amp" light in the dash stays on. If I rev the RPM's up, the light goes out. It had been sitting a while and I took it to get some gas. It didn't start at the gas station. Had the battery charged and tested, started up and drove it home, but still had the "amp" battery light problem.
Some history... before my current issue the car was working fine, carb setup, MSD 6AL, MSD distributor. Started having intermittant starting issues. After banging the starter it would just spin (bendix issue). I replaced the starter and then it would just crank and not turn over. Turns out my MSD box was bad, I did try a different MSD box when that one was getting repaired. Somewhere in this timeframe of no start, the battery was crossed (neg hooked to pos and vice versa).
Battery tested out okay, but I had to replace the solenoid. While working through this I've also replaced the ignition switch. So now I have my current problem listed in the first paragraph.
What do you think...did I fry the alternator or voltage regulator? Other suggestions?
Car starts and the "amp" light in the dash stays on. If I rev the RPM's up, the light goes out. It had been sitting a while and I took it to get some gas. It didn't start at the gas station. Had the battery charged and tested, started up and drove it home, but still had the "amp" battery light problem.
Some history... before my current issue the car was working fine, carb setup, MSD 6AL, MSD distributor. Started having intermittant starting issues. After banging the starter it would just spin (bendix issue). I replaced the starter and then it would just crank and not turn over. Turns out my MSD box was bad, I did try a different MSD box when that one was getting repaired. Somewhere in this timeframe of no start, the battery was crossed (neg hooked to pos and vice versa).
Battery tested out okay, but I had to replace the solenoid. While working through this I've also replaced the ignition switch. So now I have my current problem listed in the first paragraph.
What do you think...did I fry the alternator or voltage regulator? Other suggestions?
#3
I have not checked with a multi-meter, how do I do that and what would it be telling me?
Figures it is a self inflicted wound that is keeping me from driving this thing. What I get for working on it in the driveway at 1:00AM and rushing.
Figures it is a self inflicted wound that is keeping me from driving this thing. What I get for working on it in the driveway at 1:00AM and rushing.
#4
You stick the red lead (positive) on the positive and the black lead (negative) on the negative post and with the car running it should be more than 13.5 volts while idling....should be more in the 14.5 range.... If its in the 12's then you either A, fried the alt or B blew something in the wiring...
Not everything will pertain to you because yours is carbed BUT here is a layout of the system you screwed up. The fusible links are hat normally pop when the battery is hooked up backwards. They are basically inline fuses but are actually just smaller gauge wires in the wiring. With this you need to do a continuity/resistance check and see if you did blow any of these.
Also while you are there look at the Light green/red wire (904) that leads to the alternator and see if there are 12v's there with the key on. That is what gives the regulator power and gives you the extra couple of volts to allow the system to charge.
Not everything will pertain to you because yours is carbed BUT here is a layout of the system you screwed up. The fusible links are hat normally pop when the battery is hooked up backwards. They are basically inline fuses but are actually just smaller gauge wires in the wiring. With this you need to do a continuity/resistance check and see if you did blow any of these.
Also while you are there look at the Light green/red wire (904) that leads to the alternator and see if there are 12v's there with the key on. That is what gives the regulator power and gives you the extra couple of volts to allow the system to charge.
#5
You stick the red lead (positive) on the positive and the black lead (negative) on the negative post and with the car running it should be more than 13.5 volts while idling....should be more in the 14.5 range.... If its in the 12's then you either A, fried the alt or B blew something in the wiring...
Not everything will pertain to you because yours is carbed BUT here is a layout of the system you screwed up. The fusible links are hat normally pop when the battery is hooked up backwards. They are basically inline fuses but are actually just smaller gauge wires in the wiring. With this you need to do a continuity/resistance check and see if you did blow any of these.
Also while you are there look at the Light green/red wire (904) that leads to the alternator and see if there are 12v's there with the key on. That is what gives the regulator power and gives you the extra couple of volts to allow the system to charge.
Not everything will pertain to you because yours is carbed BUT here is a layout of the system you screwed up. The fusible links are hat normally pop when the battery is hooked up backwards. They are basically inline fuses but are actually just smaller gauge wires in the wiring. With this you need to do a continuity/resistance check and see if you did blow any of these.
Also while you are there look at the Light green/red wire (904) that leads to the alternator and see if there are 12v's there with the key on. That is what gives the regulator power and gives you the extra couple of volts to allow the system to charge.
#6
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