5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Low Coolant light came on, 1991 GT 5.0

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Old 02-18-2012, 02:54 AM
  #41  
CLUE
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Ok I got the radiator drained and out, I'm going to pick up a new radiator and water pump in the morning and buy a manual. I just sprayed down all the bolts I could get at, so they'll be easier to get off tomorrow. I've been looking at some videos online, to get an idea of what I'm dealing with and this one's the best one I've found so far:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtIsA...981678E4E6E83C (it's for an 89 mustang but looks exactly same as my 91)

In the video he takes the harmonic balancer off, but when he's putting it back on he mentions he should of put it back on before the water pump. I'm just wondering if I will need to rent the puller and do this (remove harmonic balancer) to replace the water pump, or is this just necessary to get at the timing? I'm just a little worried because he mentions the old timing cover gasket may leak after messing with the balancer? I hope I don't have to, or else will I have to do the timing cover seal as well? I was only planning on replacing the water pump, which went prematurely and the timing should be good for quite a while, so I'd like to deal with that in doors when the time comes. thanks!

Last edited by CLUE; 02-18-2012 at 03:03 AM.
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Old 02-18-2012, 07:47 AM
  #42  
projectresto83
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The balancer only has to be removed if you are removing the timing cover. It might be a good idea to go ahead and timing cover gasket as well since the cooling system runs through both. And if you do replace the timing cover gasket and you have some miles on the car you might as well replace the timing chain as well.

If you wanted to remove the balancer you can purchase the puller for under $20.
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:31 AM
  #43  
eb2gt
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I think this has got out of hand.
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Old 02-18-2012, 02:47 PM
  #44  
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haha, it sure has... my rad was gummed up and it heated up which was probably the cause for the seals in my water pump to go. My fan clutch was also worn out. Flushing the rad and changing the thermostat and rad cap was probably pointless, but I tried it anyway and salvaged most of the coolant when I drained it again. I'm just going to change out the water pump if possible for now and the radiator. I'll do the timing later when I have more time/cash and I can do it indoors. I just prey that the timing gasket won't start to leak after, it wasn't before. I cant go anywhere with the pump leaking, but I'd rather not tear into the engine too much out on the street in this weather. Thanks for the answers, can't wait to drive my car again!

Last edited by CLUE; 02-18-2012 at 02:55 PM.
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Old 02-19-2012, 04:52 AM
  #45  
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Update... I picked up the new radiator from Lordco, they said they had the water pump in stock too (one showed up on their computer), but they couldn't find it and asked me to come back in the morning. I hope they find the damn thing! I got home and got the pump off and cleaned off the old gasket, so atleast I'm ready to install everything early tomorrow. I see project5.GO mentioned I should use thread sealant, the manual says to just lightly oil the bolts, do any of the long bolts go through the timing cover or something on my 5.0??? I don't want to take any chances, but let me know if this is necessary, might save me a few bucks if not. I have a job offer on the table and they want to know if I can make it in Monday. I'll update again after the RTV cures and I can go for a test drive. Thanks again
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:52 AM
  #46  
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I don't remember which bolts but yes a few of them go into the water jackets and should have RTV put on the threads before install.
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