Project 5.GO!

Get a couple shorter bolts at the hardware store. That will put the puller closer to the action, and there won't be so much stress on the bolts. Then grease the center bolt where it threads into the puller. Then put a wrench on the center bolt and tap it gently with a hammer. It should start to turn. If it doesn't, get a strap wrench, and make it see your point of view. :P

AdderMk2

well, for starters... I would start by completely removing the puller. It seems you have it setup incorrectly. If you are only going to use two bolts to pull the balancer off, you should be using the two slots on the puller that are inline with each other. What you should do, before you keep busting your *****, is make a trip to a hardware store and buy two shorter bolts to go into the balancer (im surprised the kit doesnt have short bolts). Try to get the plate as close to the balancer as you can.

It would also be extremely wise to put the crank bolt back into the snout of the crank. Leave the washer out. This will prevent you from ****ing up the threads in the crank.

When you install the new balancer you MUST install that washer. It is what actually holds the balancer on.

9550

one of the questions i had asked earlier is would it be bad to use the bolts that hold the crank pulley on? then i could use three short bolts instead of two.
i guess the point of my question is are those threaded holes for the pulley somehow weaker than the two threaded holes for the balancer puller?

9550

i couldnt align the puller to do that for some reason. will try again tomorrow, but im 99.9999% sure i cant do it. for me to be able to do that, the holes in the balancer would have to be opposite each other, and they arent. theres three prongs, and a single prong on the puller. to use them in a straight line like you say, i would need to use the middle of the three and the single prong. which i cant see how it could happen.
unless unless unless i can use the holes that hold the pulley on rather than the holes that were intended to be used for pulling the balancer? (asked in my previous post)

buying shorter bolts seems to be the way to go, so i will definitely do that.
the kit does come with shorter bolts, but they arent the right size for the holes in the balancer intended for the puller.


so youre saying put the crank bolt back in, and then put the puller back on and then try to pull it off?
so that would mean to put the bolt in almost all the way, leaving enough room that i can have the balancer move and me notice it moving. im assuming you are sure the crank threads wont get pushed/stripped by doing it this way, otherwise you wouldnt suggest it


aside from switching to shorter bolts and replacing the crank bolt before trying the puller, i mean, i have a lot of tension on it now and its not budging. can there be some other problem other than rust??

9550

going to ask this question again in its own post so it doesnt get overlooked:

can i use the pulley holes that are in the balancer instead of the holes that were intended to be used by the puller?
this would allow me at a minimum to use two inline bolts, and even 3 bolts to pull the balancer if 3 bolts is a good idea


thanks again all for the assistance!!

mattdel

I'm still confused on how you actually bent the bolts. With the bolts in place on the balancer, and the center pin of the puller turning, you're pulling on the 2 bolts, not pushing or bending. How did you defy physics and bend the bolts?

Five0hFox

I'm going to say from using it completely wrong.

Op, what adder is saying is you have the two bolts in the wrong spot on the puller. They need to be in the other slots. Then you will be able to out them in the balancer, crank the big bolt and it will pop right off.

Project 5.GO!

Jesus, with the perspective on that photo, I didn't see that the thing was on lobsided. What Adder was saying is to screw the balancer bolt back into the crankshaft minus the washer for now. Then, on the puller center screw, you don't use the pointed tip. This will eliminate any chance of you forking up the threads in the crankshaft. Get that puller on straight, so it's pulling the balancer out straight. Two bolts, 3 bolts, shouldn't matter as long as you are pulling equally on opposite sides.

9550

i got the part about putting the bolt back in minus the washer. this will allow me to have the flat end of the center puller bolt against the flat surface of the crank bolt.

aside from that, i will have to use prongs 1 and 3 (as in the picture) unless it is acceptable to use the holes that are for the pulley. theres 4 holes for the pulley bolts. in a square pattern. if it is not a bad thing to do, i can use the two opposing corners of that square and use the puller with prongs 2 and 4 and have the bolts lined up in a straight line.
theres only 2 holes for the puller, and they are not opposite each other as you can see in the picture.

is there any way somebody can just tell me if i can/should use the holes for where the pulley mounts? i clearly know nothing, but since the threads are different, for all i know theres some threads that are stronger than others and the ones they put in for the puller are stronger than the ones they put in for the bolts to mount the pulley. i worry about stupid stuff like that.

9550

well you see, im an idiot, and i never used one of these puller things, and it didnt come with directions. i thought, how hard could it be. bolt heads should be on the flat part. center bolt goes in the middle, pull bolts go in the prongs and go into the puller holes. easy
i tried different combos of prongs and one of them wasnt a good idea. probably turned it too fast as well and it tilted.
again, i have no automotive repair skills. this is all new.

next chance i get, im going to pick up some shorter bolts and put the crank bolt back in and take another shot. just waiting to find out if i can use the pulley holes or not.