mustangGT86_05

Actually, you're wrong because a cap doesn't put any pressure on. The rating means that it will hold the system at pressure up to the rated pressure, past that it bleeds off to the overflow tank. But just to feed you some info the higher the pressure you can retain the higher the boiling point goes, and you really want to avoid any kind of boiling. Your system is also designed to opperate to a certain pressure, so put a cap on that is factory recommended.

So in short, going to a higher pressure puts strain on parts, going lower means you're more likley to boil your coolant.

TrimDrip

I never said a cap put pressure on. I said a lesser pound cap will put less pressure on your old heater core and such. Which is true. My theory is, instead of water busting the old heater core, it will go into the overflow first. Get my point? If the car will run without overheating with a lesser pound cap, it wouldn't hurt to use one.

Regardless, 1 pound isn't going to make a difference.

mustangGT86_05

Right I get what you're saying, but when the system is capable of handling that pressure then why go less? If you feel like you need to go less than factory spec to fix an issue all you're doing is putting a bandage on it, that's all I'm saying. Sorry if it came out a little offensive before.

tinman

Check any new radaitor caps you buy.
The parts store probably think I'm the biggest a-hole on the planet but when I went there for one they drug out the fine 'import' model and I said 'wait a minute' and ran to my truck and got my Stant tester/checker kit that I've had for 20+ years.
Brought it into the store with me and checked the new cap, it was bad.
Wish I would have had a camera with me to see the look on the faces.
They went and got the 'expensive' Stant cap.
It checked good
I sure like to have fun when buying parts.........

CLUE

Thanks for the input, I'll leave it on for a bit and keep an eye on the temp gauge. I'm not sure how old the hoses are, as I've only had the car a few months, but I've replaced all the rest of the cooling system already. It still had the original rad, so new hoses are probably due as well and I think pretty much everything else is original still as well(except what I've replaced so far: water pump, t-stat, fan clutch, radiator), only has 49,000miles on it (: ... I plan on changing all the hoses and new clamps if needed in the next few months and will pick up another 16lb cap then, since summer is approaching.

On another note, what else should I look into maintenance-wise, if the cars approaching 50,000 miles? I'm wondering about the timing especially, but I'd like to know what else I should look into too. A few things on the to do list are: the front brakes, pulls a tiny bit to left when I brake hard and there's a ding in the exhaust (Flowmaster H-pipe) I need to fix as it leaks a little. My driver door also doesn't close properly sometimes, anyone know how I might fix that? Buddy fixed it a while ago (not sure how), but it started doing it again... it shuts fine if i lift up a bit and close it with decent force, but it's just annoying and I'd like to fix it, I can post some pics, if that helps. Also I need to get some new tires for summer and I was thinking of getting some rims as well, what would be a good looking bang for the buck tire rim combo??? I was checking out the cobra replica chromes, not sure what tires to get, any input on that would be awesome. Thanks people!

Project 5.GO!

I'll chime in on the door not closing, you need hinge pins and bushings replaced.

This is an excerpt of a post or writeup I clipped a while back just in case I ever needed to do this job. I don't know who wrote it, but hats off to them:

As many others, the door hinge pin bushings on my 92 LX were well worn over time and let the doors hang a bit low. To the point where they rattled while driving over a gravel road.
My local Auto Parts Store had some repair kits on the shelf that included pins and bushings.
During removal of the original pins I noticed that they were pressed into the hinge with help of a serration under their head. The new pins have a smooth shank their entire length.
After some checking I learned that the pins from the various Resto Suppliers were of the same smooth design. So I decided to proceed with the installation.
As it was all set and done, I noticed that the pin was spinning in the hinge and not in the bushings. (The serration on the original pins holds them in place so the bushings spin as the pin stays stationary.)
So clearly the replacement pins didn't do their job.
Back at the Parts Store I bought a different pin/bushing kit by Dorman/Help
#38140. This pin has a nice serration under the head, the tip is more pointed (which could ease installation) and also has a grove at the end to be secured with an "E" clip. (Instead those skinny cotter keys.)
The length and diameter appears to be the same. So I gave them a try.
Sure enough they stay put as designed!

Project 5.GO!

Also a link to a how-to:

http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/5894/photo_01.html

CLUE

Nice where to buy parts & how to, thanks! I just went and looked again and took some pics and I think that's what's going on! I thought it was the teeth/locking mechanisms, but that would make sense it's hanging a bit low because when I lift up it seems to close, but it's annoying closing it from outside. Check em out:

lets hang out

little low??

upper pin & bushings

lower pin and bushings

teeth & locking mechanisms (thought this was the problem at first, guess not... thanks!)

Project 5.GO!

If it won't close completely unless you put upward pressure on the door, it's very likely the hinge pins. You can take the opportunity to replace the bushing on your hinge that makes the door stay open while you're in there.

Bobert

Wait ... Distilled water ? I have been using the good ole garden hose for years hahah.

Honestly first time I've heard of this being done