Rear wheels not turning in neutral after brake change
03-21-2012, 10:31 AM
#1
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Location: North Carolina
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Rear wheels not turning in neutral after brake change
My husband noticed the brakes grinding because of low brake pads (apparently the person who changed them last didn't put the screaming brake pads on) on my 1995 Cobra SVT 5-speed. It's not been sitting as I do drive it a few times per week. The car was in neutral and e-brake off when he attempted this job.
He's changed brakes numerous times on other vehicles, mainly Fords, however this time when he did, he encountered what I call problems that shouldn't have occurred.
1. He has made it a habit to tell me each time to take the cap off the brake fluid before attempting to change any brake parts.. this time he failed to do that.
2. He had to beat the caliper back onto the rotor with a hammer because the pads and rotor were a tight fit for the caliper (even after he pushed the caliper piston all the way down with the "cube tool"). Usually with any other brake changes, the caliper has reasonably fit on there.
3. He tried replacing one of the calipers to see if that was the problem however it still continued. He believes it's only the back driver's side; I on the other hand know it's both from taking it for a drive and smelling burnt pads on both sides. When he put the old caliper back on, he put the e-brake cable back on last after he had the caliper on the rotor. The brakes were bled afterwards. But the problem was already existing before this was done.
4. Neither of the back wheels will spin at all. The front wheels were down but I don't think that should have any affect on the back wheels spinning.
5. When driving, I can feel the brakes are engaged and they produce a strong brake pad burning smell.
I don't think the calipers are seized because the pistons went down great. Any help would be greatly appreciated so I can get my baby back on the road and stop being stuck at home.
He's changed brakes numerous times on other vehicles, mainly Fords, however this time when he did, he encountered what I call problems that shouldn't have occurred.
1. He has made it a habit to tell me each time to take the cap off the brake fluid before attempting to change any brake parts.. this time he failed to do that.
2. He had to beat the caliper back onto the rotor with a hammer because the pads and rotor were a tight fit for the caliper (even after he pushed the caliper piston all the way down with the "cube tool"). Usually with any other brake changes, the caliper has reasonably fit on there.
3. He tried replacing one of the calipers to see if that was the problem however it still continued. He believes it's only the back driver's side; I on the other hand know it's both from taking it for a drive and smelling burnt pads on both sides. When he put the old caliper back on, he put the e-brake cable back on last after he had the caliper on the rotor. The brakes were bled afterwards. But the problem was already existing before this was done.
4. Neither of the back wheels will spin at all. The front wheels were down but I don't think that should have any affect on the back wheels spinning.
5. When driving, I can feel the brakes are engaged and they produce a strong brake pad burning smell.
I don't think the calipers are seized because the pistons went down great. Any help would be greatly appreciated so I can get my baby back on the road and stop being stuck at home.
03-21-2012, 12:25 PM
#2
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pittsburgh
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Beating the caliper back on the rotor is the first indication something isn't right.
Either the piston wasn't compressed all the way or the pads are too thick.
Disconnect the e-brake cable and test to eliminate that as a possibility.
My money is on wrong pads. But I may be wrong. Not all rotors are the same thickness... I'm not sure if the GT and Cobra have different thickness rotors. I'm a fox-body person.
Either the piston wasn't compressed all the way or the pads are too thick.
Disconnect the e-brake cable and test to eliminate that as a possibility.
My money is on wrong pads. But I may be wrong. Not all rotors are the same thickness... I'm not sure if the GT and Cobra have different thickness rotors. I'm a fox-body person.
03-21-2012, 12:38 PM
#3
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The pads were the same width, but as for the thickness.. I wouldn't be surprised if the auto parts store got them wrong or mixed up. The odd thing I noticed was that there were three dots on the back that were apparently supposed to be there because the shims had openings for them but I believe had they not been there that a little more room could be spared.
The piston had to be down all the way, so I believe it could be the pad thickness.
He's never "seated" the brakes on any car, but I'm reading that that procedure should be done.. could that be the issue?
Another question I suppose would be.. if the pads are too thick.. would it not take just burning off some excess so that there would be space for the caliper to disengage? I'm sure it would wear the rotors down some but he just replaced one (of which he had to get turned even though it was new because it most definitely wouldn't fit with those pads).
I believe that the rotors are supposed to be different as well as the calipers. The SVT is supposed to have slotted rotors but I wouldn't think that the thickness of an "equivalent" would be that much of a difference ( I could be very very wrong).
I'll do more research on the pads. Thanks for responding
Had a fox one time, it was a wonderful drive but had horrible electrical problems.
The piston had to be down all the way, so I believe it could be the pad thickness.
He's never "seated" the brakes on any car, but I'm reading that that procedure should be done.. could that be the issue?
Another question I suppose would be.. if the pads are too thick.. would it not take just burning off some excess so that there would be space for the caliper to disengage? I'm sure it would wear the rotors down some but he just replaced one (of which he had to get turned even though it was new because it most definitely wouldn't fit with those pads).
I believe that the rotors are supposed to be different as well as the calipers. The SVT is supposed to have slotted rotors but I wouldn't think that the thickness of an "equivalent" would be that much of a difference ( I could be very very wrong).
I'll do more research on the pads. Thanks for responding
Had a fox one time, it was a wonderful drive but had horrible electrical problems.
03-21-2012, 01:15 PM
#4
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I wouldn't recommend driving with the pads tight as the brakes will get very hot and you could possibly heat your rotors to the point of no return then you'll need to do it all over again.
Yes they will wear down but your brakes will likely begin to heat and possibly smoke. I have been there and done that on another car.
Also just noticed you said he only replaced one rotor. That is not a very good idea right from the start. You shouldn't mix brake parts(except replacing a caliper or something), especially when its the rear and you have an e brake cable. They will not engage properly if things are not wearing even.
In regards to the slotted rotors, I think you are wrong there, someone correct me if I'm wrong. They are only vented in the sense of the inside of the rotor like many of other cars. They are not slotted on the surface, like I think you are implying. In any case they would be made to the same specs, so slotted or not it should not matter.
Yes they will wear down but your brakes will likely begin to heat and possibly smoke. I have been there and done that on another car.
Also just noticed you said he only replaced one rotor. That is not a very good idea right from the start. You shouldn't mix brake parts(except replacing a caliper or something), especially when its the rear and you have an e brake cable. They will not engage properly if things are not wearing even.
In regards to the slotted rotors, I think you are wrong there, someone correct me if I'm wrong. They are only vented in the sense of the inside of the rotor like many of other cars. They are not slotted on the surface, like I think you are implying. In any case they would be made to the same specs, so slotted or not it should not matter.
Last edited by ryan_89_mustang; 03-21-2012 at 02:30 PM.
03-21-2012, 01:21 PM
#5
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Next time when you compress the piston and it doesn't want to give, open the bleeder valve on the caliper. If the piston compresses after that, you have a faulty brake line (the rubber one that connects to the caliper has collapsed). If it doesn't compress, the caliper is bad.
As far as your brakes sticking, did your husband remove & regrease the sliders?
As far as your brakes sticking, did your husband remove & regrease the sliders?
03-21-2012, 01:22 PM
#6
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So with the new rotor on one side and the old one on the other side be causing the e-brake to catch only on one side? Or would it even be a reason as to why the wheels aren't turning?
03-21-2012, 01:27 PM
#7
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Next time when you compress the piston and it doesn't want to give, open the bleeder valve on the caliper. If the piston compresses after that, you have a faulty brake line (the rubber one that connects to the caliper has collapsed). If it doesn't compress, the caliper is bad.
As far as your brakes sticking, did your husband remove & regrease the sliders?
As far as your brakes sticking, did your husband remove & regrease the sliders?
I'm not sure what you mean by sliders?
03-21-2012, 01:34 PM
#8
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That would not be a reason for your wheels not turning on both sides. I was just stating that it isn't normally a good idea to replace the components on one side.
If you haven't disconnected the cable like stated previously then, you should do that because if it was adjusted after the brakes were worn then it wouldn't adjusted properly anymore.
03-21-2012, 01:37 PM
#9
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The sliders are the pins which the caliper is sitting on. There are 2 of them per caliper. They are the bolts which fasten the caliper to the pad cradle section. They need to be greased with high temp grease to ensure they slide properly and do not stick.