5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

HELP PLEASE!!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-29-2012, 03:45 PM
  #11  
Tony71502
5th Gear Member
 
Tony71502's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 2,459
Default

[QUOTE=jthorn9;7892571]Ok stock your car should have around 25* of timing in it without the little sensor removed (can't thing of it's name) base timing is 10*. QUOTE]

Spout connector.
Tony71502 is offline  
Old 03-29-2012, 04:08 PM
  #12  
jthorn9
The Godfather
 
jthorn9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Temple, Texas
Posts: 15,481
Default

[QUOTE=Tony71502;7892576]
Originally Posted by jthorn9
Ok stock your car should have around 25* of timing in it without the little sensor removed (can't thing of it's name) base timing is 10*. QUOTE]

Spout connector.
Bingo...that's it, forgot it's name, been so long since I fooled with one. But yeah I do know some people incorrectly read the stock timing because they forget to unplug this basic connector.
jthorn9 is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 10:55 PM
  #13  
kmfdeviant530
 
kmfdeviant530's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 1
Default

Hi all, I'm gtgenos friend that has been helping him through this. We have done so much work on this car it literally boggles In the back of my mind as I sleep. Fuel system is a go. We hooked up a fuel tester and did all appropriate tests 35+ lbs strong at idle and climbs to 40 without hesitation when driving. Fpr is good too. Timing was done by a mechanic he knew, that's the only thing i cant firsthand confirm, h replaced fuel filter, o2 sensors, cats, egr(a year ago) and I recently tuned his tps along with reset the iac. The only reason I rule out timing is there's no miss, and his major issue is only under load in drive and reverse, in neutral and park the car sometimes stumbles bit not as bad. If it were timing it would miss and die out no matter what. The car idles fine after initial start up. I rule out ignition due to same reason, it doesn't miss and only under load does it die out, just like a vac leak. System seems fine as far ad vac goes, havnt tested pressure. The best I've seen it run was last night when I unplugged the egr, It still hesitated a little but it started right up without being at wot, and barely stumbled when he backed in and out of his parking stall. All my guts point to egr issue. Any other ideas givin this info?
kmfdeviant530 is offline  
Old 04-19-2012, 07:56 AM
  #14  
GTGeno
Thread Starter
 
GTGeno's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: CA
Posts: 4
Default

I would just like to say to everyone who took the time to try and help thank you. I took my car to the shop because I got tired of trying to fix it. It turns out my problem was a fried ECT (Electronic Coolant Temperature) sensor. The car had no idea whether it was warm or cold. It also caused my ECU to get really confused as it started dumping fuel through the injectors. Also when I adjusted my timing the info I received was to set it at between 8*-12* atdc. Well that info was backwards. The shop set my timing at 10* btdc and the car has never ran better!
GTGeno is offline  
Old 04-19-2012, 08:03 AM
  #15  
mjr46
D.R. THE PATHETIC DORK
 
mjr46's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 30,863
Default

simple run of the codes would of found a bad sensor......koeo/koer test google it
mjr46 is offline  
Old 04-22-2012, 05:53 PM
  #16  
hondhunter
2nd Gear Member
 
hondhunter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location:
Posts: 157
Default

test the egr solenoid. if you have consistent vacuum to the egr its open causing a vacuum leak. it'll stall act up all kinds of stuff..
hondhunter is offline  




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:25 AM.