Tony71502

Hook up a scanner. If you can't find a mechanic that has one then buy one. It will tell you all that you need to know to fix your CEL problem. It fixed mine. And my stang is older than yours.

TrimDrip

Mine has trouble when starting hot. It is not misfiring though, it is flooding. Sometimes I have to hold my foot on the pedal to the floor to crank it. That cuts the injectors off. I can see on the wideband that my air/fuel is too rich when it does this.

Mine is either in the tune or the maf. I am getting a new meter and tune soon so I will know then. It has done this every since I have used the p-mas meter.

jthorn9

OK I chagned out both O2 sensors and the coolant temperature sensor and it's a hair better but here's what's going on.

***Note both O2 sensors and the coolant sensor looked bad***

The engien still runs a hair bit rough at idle. Most people wound't notice it but I notice the difference from a smooth running engine to what it's doing now. It's shaking as if a mount is a little loose, but I changed all the mounts and they're all on tight.

The car still is sluggish to start. The idel fluctuation isn't as bad anymore but its still there. Starts better when hot now though since changing out those senors.

Check engine light will come on approximately 1-2 minutes after driving it under load after it starts and stays on for anywhere from 2-4 mins then goes off and stays off.

I was almost wondering if the O2 sensors I got were maybe wrong. I looked up the boch model number at it showed up for F-150s and Thunderbirds, not Mustangs. The Mustang had a similar model number but 1 number different.

jthorn9

It's also running a faint bit rich, like you get out the car and you can clearly smell gas fumes. I think I'm getting around 17 mph mixed driving, but more hwy than city which is low.

Also something very odd, the car is running at higher RPMs than normal. Example. at 70 mph I'm at 2800 RPMs, it used to be around 2400 RPMs. Car has 3.73 gears in the rear.

The only thing I changed from before is I put in a light weight stage 3 clutch and a billet chromoly steel flywheel.

mattdel

I think you're misunderstanding the point I'm trying to make about the scanner. I'm not talking about a code reader. I'm talking about a legit, multi thousand dollar professional setup. Those scanners can watch real time data on OBD-1 systems. You need to do this to accurately find what the problem is. Stop chasing stuff that has no relation.