swapped 5 speed, now troubles start
05-29-2012, 11:42 AM
#11
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 5,061
Ok, that's where I will start when I get home. Thanks
P.S. Are you a super genius, how do you and others on this sight know so much on 20/25 year old cars? It baffles my mind, thanks for your time.
P.S. Are you a super genius, how do you and others on this sight know so much on 20/25 year old cars? It baffles my mind, thanks for your time.
05-29-2012, 11:49 AM
#12
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Spfld, MA
Posts: 9,240
Not a super genius no, but thanks 
Actually just alot of experience with these cars, plus alot of us here are ASE certified techs, we work on cars for a living. I have a slight edge in that I have at-home access to AllData, so that helps me help others on here a little bit quicker and with more informative info.
Actually just alot of experience with these cars, plus alot of us here are ASE certified techs, we work on cars for a living. I have a slight edge in that I have at-home access to AllData, so that helps me help others on here a little bit quicker and with more informative info.
05-29-2012, 12:20 PM
#13
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 55
Yeah, Pin 19 to the pink/black wire on the relay (which should be under the drivers seat). Correct. Make sure its the pink wire and not the red/black. The red wire goes to the inertia switch, it's the incoming signal from the EEC.
However I'm not convinced the FP relay or MA conversion had anything to do with this, simply because the fuel pump is re-priming after stalling. This can only happen if the power to the PCM (EEC) got reset, which logically can only happen if you have a faulty ignition switch (you'd see more symptoms such as dash/radio/heater dying as well), or the power feed to the EEC (EEC relay near the EEC) has lost its power or ground (black/light green) momentarily.
However I'm not convinced the FP relay or MA conversion had anything to do with this, simply because the fuel pump is re-priming after stalling. This can only happen if the power to the PCM (EEC) got reset, which logically can only happen if you have a faulty ignition switch (you'd see more symptoms such as dash/radio/heater dying as well), or the power feed to the EEC (EEC relay near the EEC) has lost its power or ground (black/light green) momentarily.
05-29-2012, 04:53 PM
#15
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 72
Did you make sure you attached the ground to the starter. If that ground is not fully connected, it will stall, not idle, have intermittent problems, that's if its touching the block. Test for good ground this way: Take a pair of jumper cables.
-Take one wire and connnect it to the neg batt post to the car's body
-Take the other wire and connect it to the neg batt post and the engine.
If you don't stall and have the problems, it's definatly a ground. I'm not big into PCM pin tracing but I have had 7 Mustang 5.0's. So I have had many of the problem everyone has. I have also done a t-5 swap in a 95 5.0 vert. Never had a problem with the swap. But, grounds will make a car crazy if not connected properly or cleanly.
-Take one wire and connnect it to the neg batt post to the car's body
-Take the other wire and connect it to the neg batt post and the engine.
If you don't stall and have the problems, it's definatly a ground. I'm not big into PCM pin tracing but I have had 7 Mustang 5.0's. So I have had many of the problem everyone has. I have also done a t-5 swap in a 95 5.0 vert. Never had a problem with the swap. But, grounds will make a car crazy if not connected properly or cleanly.
05-29-2012, 11:13 PM
#17
6th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 5,061
FOUND THE BASTARD, it was the ground wire from my Crane ignition box to motor. It looked good and was tight but whoever bolted it down never scrapped the paint off block. Its been that way for the 5 years I've owned it. Don't know why it started acting up now, I must have bumped it during the swap, still puzzled why it only gave a fuss when hot, but goes to show (CHECK GROUND WIRES) I would never guess it would cause such havoc. But now I'm all smiles again, this 5-speed swap is awsome. Took me awhile but worth it. Thanks to all who helped. Let's go bang some gears, gently.
05-31-2012, 07:07 AM
#18
Thanks alot for the reply, not sure you were responding to the right post after reading the beginning of yours, but thanks. So TFI or PIP could be the problem? Good to know but I will start with the vacuum lines behind motor first, your right when you say the connections and vacuum lines take a beating during the swap. Car ran great for years before this so I know it's something I did. Also when this thing starts studdering, its acting like it loses 2-3 cylinders, not just one. Thanks for the offer on your phone #, I may take you up on that after the holiday weekend.
05-31-2012, 06:38 PM
#20
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 72
I'm glad I could point you somewhere.
Your welcome! I knew it had to be a ground. I always scrape the paint on my grounds. I really enjoyed getting rid of my auto in my 95 vert, but the gears were 2.55 I think, and the gears should be the next change on your ride if you already haven't changed them.