new gt40s on but wont start now : (
06-26-2012, 05:17 PM
#11
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06-26-2012, 07:49 PM
#14
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These are the cheapo aftermarket aluminum gt40 heads i got ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-289-302...266b24&vxp=mtr
Should i have to advance my timing like as far as it goes in order to get any throttle response?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-289-302...266b24&vxp=mtr
Should i have to advance my timing like as far as it goes in order to get any throttle response?
06-27-2012, 12:00 AM
#15
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Tps should be anywhere between 0.94 to 0.98 volts. You can check by putting the positive end of a volt meter on the green wire and the ground wire of the volt meter on the black wire on the tps(more accurate reading). IMO your TB is quite small to compensate the breathing room that the new heads. What injectors are you running?
06-27-2012, 08:15 AM
#17
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If you don't want to spend the extra cash on a new TB you can always port out the 65mm one that you have.
Ford 19# injectors are rated for 300 hp. They will work with your set up but you they will be used at about 100% duty cycle, not recommended to be pushed past 80% duty cycle. Upgrading to 24# injector will your best bet. Remember that you will need to get a MAF that is calibrated for 24# injectors if you are going to upgrade.
as far as traction goes. you can do 2 things that would help you lay more hp to the rear wheels for very little cost.
sub-frame connectors
remove front sway-bar for better weight distribution
Ford 19# injectors are rated for 300 hp. They will work with your set up but you they will be used at about 100% duty cycle, not recommended to be pushed past 80% duty cycle. Upgrading to 24# injector will your best bet. Remember that you will need to get a MAF that is calibrated for 24# injectors if you are going to upgrade.
as far as traction goes. you can do 2 things that would help you lay more hp to the rear wheels for very little cost.
sub-frame connectors
remove front sway-bar for better weight distribution
06-27-2012, 06:03 PM
#18
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how would i port the tb? get a port/polish kit? think i was gunna get a kit anyways cuz i wanna practice porting on my old e7s...i do have subframe connectors already so thats good, uhm wouldnt i feel a difference when turning if i took off the front swaybar? like body roll ofr something? an yeh guess i should get some 24# inj an maf anyone know which site has best prices on inj/maf?? only sites i really buy from are cjsponyparts, latemodelresto an american muscle...any others i should know about???
oh an i was messin wit my timing an think i found where it wants to be cuz finaly got some horse to the wheels : ) still not perfect tho.... an with my bbk adj fpr i dont really notice a difference when i adjust it ...i gotta put my fuel pressure gauge on cuz dunno even what psi im setting/running it at lol : )
oh an i was messin wit my timing an think i found where it wants to be cuz finaly got some horse to the wheels : ) still not perfect tho.... an with my bbk adj fpr i dont really notice a difference when i adjust it ...i gotta put my fuel pressure gauge on cuz dunno even what psi im setting/running it at lol : )
06-27-2012, 06:48 PM
#19
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Port the TB? Wow. Yeah sure, as long as you have access to a wind tunnel so you can make sure the airflow swirls, like it surely WON'T do after grinding away on it. TB's aren't expensive because of the metal in them, they're expensive because of the thousands of man hours that go into the engineering and testing for optimal air flow. Also, if you were to port the TB, you'd have to find a way to port the IAC hole as well, to compensate. Good luck with that.
Removing the sway bar for weight distro? 7lb's surely isn't enough of a difference to justify removing the only thing keeping the car level through turns. Want good weight distro? Put a set of 4cyl springs in front, watch the watch distro happen before your very eyes.
Want traction? Scrap your stock rear control arms and dampening shock, get a good set of arms, weld up the torque boxes. Hey presto, traction.
Removing the sway bar for weight distro? 7lb's surely isn't enough of a difference to justify removing the only thing keeping the car level through turns. Want good weight distro? Put a set of 4cyl springs in front, watch the watch distro happen before your very eyes.
Want traction? Scrap your stock rear control arms and dampening shock, get a good set of arms, weld up the torque boxes. Hey presto, traction.
Last edited by mattdel; 06-27-2012 at 06:52 PM.
06-27-2012, 09:29 PM
#20
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first of all, when you delete the EGR crossover pipe from the back of the heads, you absolutely must plug the EGR rails in the heads, otherwise you've basically just got a giant exhaust leak.
second, any time you have vacuum lines hanging off the manifold, you have to plug them!
any time you mess with the idle set screw, you need to do a base idle reset - the procedure is available in these forums, look for it.
your fpr should be set for 39psi. if it is, that's not your problem, barring any strange fuel flow problems (doubtful).
still running the speed density setup? your computer is making assumptions about the volumetric efficiency of your engine based on the stock cam, heads, and intake. it's only going to inject as much fuel as it computes is needed for those VE numbers. since it's a narrowband EGO correction system, it's going to have some trouble adjusting the fuel up to compensate for a radical change in the H/C/I setup. it's definitely going to need to run for a while before it hones in on reasonable settings. i don't know a whole lot about the algorithm used by the stock computers for "learning" the engine parameters, but given the narrowband EGO system and the speed density setup, i don't see the SD computer doing that well... then again, i don't know how much better the gt40's actually are than the e7's... if anyone here *knows* that the sd computer can do a good job with them, feel free to correct me...
second, any time you have vacuum lines hanging off the manifold, you have to plug them!
any time you mess with the idle set screw, you need to do a base idle reset - the procedure is available in these forums, look for it.
your fpr should be set for 39psi. if it is, that's not your problem, barring any strange fuel flow problems (doubtful).
still running the speed density setup? your computer is making assumptions about the volumetric efficiency of your engine based on the stock cam, heads, and intake. it's only going to inject as much fuel as it computes is needed for those VE numbers. since it's a narrowband EGO correction system, it's going to have some trouble adjusting the fuel up to compensate for a radical change in the H/C/I setup. it's definitely going to need to run for a while before it hones in on reasonable settings. i don't know a whole lot about the algorithm used by the stock computers for "learning" the engine parameters, but given the narrowband EGO system and the speed density setup, i don't see the SD computer doing that well... then again, i don't know how much better the gt40's actually are than the e7's... if anyone here *knows* that the sd computer can do a good job with them, feel free to correct me...